Originally posted by andylmusic76
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Who owns the Attex Molds
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sorry evel. they have to be out of alum as the sheet have to be heated to form it. would burn up mdf in jest a few min. while . the hdpe has to be hot to form and mold then cool in the mold to stay in shape .
robbie1999 max 2 18 b&s 22 tires custom . new max iv 23 k 26 i/n tires brown . ht cable promark winch . new toy 1972 attex st400 400ccjlo and she will be bad . ( the frog )if it don't float with out you getting wet . don't bring it !
R.I.P sage rogers 4 11 09 .
you can't fix stuped !!!!! raceone 3 .)
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Royalite 20 (ABS) has a high/low thermoforming range of 340/390 degrees Farenheit. A typical temperature for thermoforming HDPE is in the same range, and 350 degrees is a good average. I can't say if MDF would or would not hold up to 350 degrees over a period of time, but it doesn't seem like it's not worth trying! Paper ignites at 451 degrees, and the low range of MDF auto-ignition is about 425 degrees. I think that you may get some mild surface burning of MDF, but it may work out great if you keep the thermoforming on the low-end of the temperature range.
Keep in mind I know very little about vacuum forming plastics. This is just a digest and spit-out of data from the web....I talked with Faro Plastics in Rochester, NY years ago about mold-making, and wooden molds are very common in the industry, and substantially cheaper than aluminum.
~msigpic
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Does anyone know what the originals were made of? If they were aluminum there is a possibility that they were melted down for scrape after the business went under. I hope this is not the case but if someone found them in a warehouse they may have not known what they were and made a john boat out of them.I am hoping a loyal 6x6 world member will run up on these molds on day. You never know what is stuck back in a old shed or barn out in the back woods.
Here is a thought, if we had to a remake a mold would you want it to be exactly the same anyway? Knowing the shortcoming of the body would you not change it some what to make it more survivable or stable. We all know the weaknesses of the construction so if you are going to make something why not improve it.
A little longer for more leg room and longer frame.
Bottom a little taller for large tires without hitting the top of the tub.
A little wider for more turning stability at higher speed.
Frames can be made to fit. The possibilities are endless when you are just thinking out loud.
As far as racers:
If you put all this aside and i know it is not a Attex, i have just described a Argo Bigfoot. This would make a hell of a racer. Rear engine, T-20, low to the ground, wide, plenty of leg room and they still make them. I sold one prior to building the Crush and the thought never occurred to me.
Note: Springer Kits would also be available. All you need is a bottom to work with. Guess who would be the guy to make this?
Just thinking out loud, but i do hope the molds are found but it still will cost a butt load of money to make new ones. There are a endless number of new materials being developed everyday and maybe one of them can be used in our application in the near future.
Long live the old stuff!Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways , cigar in one hand, whiskey in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO-HOO, what a ride!!!"
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Originally posted by lewis View PostAs far as racers:
If you put all this aside and i know it is not a Attex, i have just described a Argo Bigfoot. This would make a hell of a racer. Rear engine, T-20, low to the ground, wide, plenty of leg room and they still make them. I sold one prior to building the Crush and the thought never occurred to me.
Note: Springer Kits would also be available. All you need is a bottom to work with. Guess who would be the guy to make this?
Long live the old stuff!
Someone did make something like that Lewis
"Don't worry my Dad's a TV repairman, he has an excellent set of tools..I can fix It"
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I am new to the aatv world but if HDPE is a good absorber and Fiberglass is easy to fix and rigid. Then why not a fiberglass shell with a bolted on HDPE skid plate about 1/4 or 3/8 inch thick. It'd be easy to make the skid plates and the bodies could be molded with the holes already in them to bolt the plates on.
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Originally posted by golpher76 View PostI am new to the aatv world but if HDPE is a good absorber and Fiberglass is easy to fix and rigid. Then why not a fiberglass shell with a bolted on HDPE skid plate about 1/4 or 3/8 inch thick. It'd be easy to make the skid plates and the bodies could be molded with the holes already in them to bolt the plates on.2008 MAX-IV 500T 30hp Bandolero
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I understand that I should have been more specific and said the fiberglass with the flexible resin. I know it's a bit heavier than the normal resin but it doesn't get 100% rigid, as in it has a little give to it. I would think the HDPE would then protect it from sharp objects but it would still flex some as to not crack.
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Earlier style scramblers used a plastic skid plate that I believe was nylon on there fiberglass tubs. It seem to protect them as the ones I have seen the skid plate gets brittle and cracks off but the body underneath them always has looked good still.
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that's actually a really good idea and never thought about that golpher. and apart from that i agree with lewis that more effort should be put into remaking molds with improvements...the engine covers were nothing special either as they were attached to the seat and broke by the hinge over time...i think i feel a project coming on sometime
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This topic is a dead end folks. Just as I explained to Andy a few years ago via email. I was the one that purchased everything from the last known Attex company owner in TN who purchased everything from the last manufacturer in Ravenna, Ohio. I received all company records, blueprints, parts, manuals, brochures, jigs, customer's names and addresses, some parts, etc... But never received the body molds. They do not exist! Anybody that says they have them or know who does is lying. PERIOD. When I drove to TN and got everything the owner explained to me that when everything was in storage, His bum nephew sold the aluminum body molds as scrap. He loaded them up in a pickup and drove them to the nearest salvage yard and had them melted down into scrap for money. I only have photographs of the molds. And I still have many many many boxes of documents and pictures, manuals and records.
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Originally posted by CarriesAttex View PostThis topic is a dead end folks. Just as I explained to Andy a few years ago via email. I was the one that purchased everything from the last known Attex company owner in TN who purchased everything from the last manufacturer in Ravenna, Ohio. I received all company records, blueprints, parts, manuals, brochures, jigs, customer's names and addresses, some parts, etc... But never received the body molds. They do not exist! Anybody that says they have them or know who does is lying. PERIOD. When I drove to TN and got everything the owner explained to me that when everything was in storage, His bum nephew sold the aluminum body molds as scrap. He loaded them up in a pickup and drove them to the nearest salvage yard and had them melted down into scrap for money. I only have photographs of the molds. And I still have many many many boxes of documents and pictures, manuals and records.
anyhow, welcome to the site! and where ya located?I have officially caught the 6-wheel-sickness!!
"If your gonna be dumb, you better be Tough!"
"I have done so much, with so little, for so long, that I'm now capable of doing practically anything with virtually nothing...."
BUY AMERICAN..or...BYE AMERICA!!!
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Originally posted by CarriesAttex View PostIm kinna near Pymatuming Lake
Joe.sigpic
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