cage

[tony240z]

I have a 76 attex and was wondering where everyone mounts the role cage... Is the material they are made of strong enough or do you have mount to the frame or that metal strip around the outside? Another thing, this was painted (looks like it was done by a 10 year old), Anyone ever use paint stripper on these bodies? Don't know if it would eat through it or not, that would suck...lol

[hydromike]

Hey Tony,
You've hit on the two most popular methods; mounting to the frame, and mounting to the outside band/body seam. The plastic itself isn't really the best choice, since it has a tendency to give unless you really spread the force out (for example, with a belly band made of steel). It seems that most people consider the steel belly band to be separate from the "cage" itself, so I'll discuss it as such. I have a roll cage mounted in each fashion. The 503 uses a steel belly band (1 1/4" by 1/1/4" angle, 3/16" thick) that fits the body well. Moderator-Mike has an awesome belly band (and cage) that is built in a similar fashion, but his took a lot more effort. I used seamed tubing (1 1/4" dia) for my bars. Something to think about is what you want it to look like in the end. Do you plan on keeping th original seat and engine cover? It's a bit more difficult (but certainly NOT impossible) to mount to the frame itself and keep all of the original amenities. There are lots and lots of cage pics in the Attex Gallery. I've only rolled one machine, and luckily i was going pretty slowly. I actually hope to roll another one someday (sick, I know) to see how my handiwork holds up.

As far as the paint goes, you can spend a lot of time and effort actually sanding it right off. Being a 76, it's likely a polyethylene body, right? In that case, sanding might not be the best option. The poly's have a texture to the surface, and sanding destroys it, and in my opinion, makes it look goofy. Let's start with how well the paint is actually stuck to the body. 'Got any pictures?

~m

[tony240z]

I have pics in the gallery, they were just put on, i think 11/24 The paint isn't on there to well, it's half chipped off thats why i thought of paint stripper, and yes it is a poly body, first year of it i think... Thanks for the cage info, i think i'll go straight to the frame and be done with it

[racerone3]

i think hydromike has you covered on the cage... as for the paint, i would try compressed air. a blow gun real close to the surface and experiment with the angle. (WEAR SAFTEY GLASSES)!! if that doesn't get results, a good pressure washer might do the trick. your local car wash is pretty low pressure, but the ones you can buy in big box stores put out 2500-4000+ psi

[hydromike]

I think a pressure washer is a great start on that body. It ought to blast most of that paint off. I wouldn't try stripper on the body until you're utterly defeated with other methods. It could kill the body.

That TC440A is a great engine, and is made by Kawasaki Heavy Industries, I think. It's likely a CDI engine, and is what JoeH had in his racer. It's fast, and could kill you. It's a good start! :o)

I would try to route that exhaust to its original location, though. It'll probably end up melting the body sooner or later. Either that, or rip off the engine cover, rip out the seat, bolt in a single-seat and join us on the track...

~m

[tony240z]

A TC440 huh? Whats the TC mean.. I need a starter for this engine but have know idea where to look or what to look for... Pressure washer is an awesome idea, we have a pretty wicked one at work and as crappy as that paint is on there i think it'll work, thank you very much for all the info.. Any idea where to begin getting a starter for that engine? I bought it off a co-worker, older guy, said it's sat for bout 2 months and i have a bad back so ripping that cord is out right now...... Thanks again for the info

[racerone3]

for the starter, i'd hit up a snowmobile shop. not the articat dealer that opened 2 winters ago, but the guy off the beaten path who has been doing it forever. if you could bring the machine it would help him a lot in figuring out the right starter

[wildtexasranger]

take a look

Tony240z,
Im building a roll cage for my 72 Max2,I dont know what your plans are for your cart?(mudding ,Hunting,racing or what)Mine will be used for Hunting & Mudding.Im learning how to weld, & this is My first project.It looks real tuff & is like a tank.May be some of my pics can help.??Im also putting 25x12x9 mud bugs on My HOG GETTER.The motor that is going in it is a 26 Kohler EFI.Just take your time on your project & I know you can make it what YOU want.Hope these pics help.
wildtexasranger - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

[wildtexasranger]

Opps

I forgot to add this SORRY.
Take a pic of your motor & Im sure Richard on route 6x6 can help you out & give him a call.

[jpswift1]

Hey Wildtexasranger, I love your cage and I think that is so cool that you got those 25" tires to fit! What did you do to the tub to make them fit? Is there sufficient space between the top of the tire and the tub? That is going to be one nice rig!

[tony240z]

Hey wtr, thanks for the imput and the pic, nice cage btw... My intention for the attex is pretty much build it as tough as i can an run the poo out of it...lol I have no problems with welding, been doing it most of my life and i own a pipe bender, i was just wondering where the best place was to fasten the cage, the frame doesn't look all that tough but i guess its the most solid part of the machine.... again, thanks

[wildtexasranger]

Thanks

jpswift1,
The tires are at 3 psi without any mod in the pic's.I have .25 inches from top of the tub.I have .75 between the tires so its almost like tracks Well over an inch from the side of the tub.Ill heat the inner fender up with a heat gun then put a board(plywood) between the tire & inner top wheel well while the tire is flat then air them up to stretch the plastic while its hot.Then let the plastic cool for a few hrs. Then let the air out & pull the board out.Should get a .50 inch or .75 inch more clearance from the top of tub.
The metal is 1/8 steel 2x2 angel on the band that goes all the way around the cart with a small 3x3,3/16 angel on the back to mount the winch & a 3x3,3/16 angel that run between the headlights for the brush guard & winch mount.I did the receaver hitch style for the winch so that I can pull one pin & move it to the back if need be.The bush guard is made of 1' 110 tubbing with 1/8 steel.(scrap)
Ok now the roll cage.I used 095,1.75''tubbing on the main hoops (Thats what most race cars use)I used 1.50'' 110 tubbing to connect both tubs together on top & back.Ok as you can see The max2 clam shells to get to the workings of the cart(motor & trans)NOT LIKE THE ATTEX.Mine still does that because the middle main hoop still connects to the frame with the pins like the roll bar does on a stock max2.The front and back parts of the roll cage are bolted to the top half of body and the metal frame,so it will still clam shell,Like stock.
Now the fun part. The front rack ties in the brush guard and roll cage to make it rigid & strong.(as one)I still have to build the bill off the front top of the roll cage for my off road lights to be boxed in so they wont get ripped off in the woods
By the time I run the new battery(blue top),new motor & all the metal & racks & tires & rims the extra lights I only added about 175 to 180 pounds.I still weighs less than a max4 but have all the goodys.The body will be done in vinal camo by deepcreek.com.Im looking at the new AP.
The tire weigh 27 pnds.The rims are MUDOX rims 9x10 double bead lock(k rims)
and weigh 10 pnds.You can get them by contacting Matt O on this site.
As you can see I have a long ways to go on my HOG GETTER but it will be worth it when I finish it.LIKE A TANK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I hope this gives anyone some insite to what can be done & I hope you have fun with your 6x6.If you need any help just give me a shout.Im still learning from a lot of you guys & dont mind sharing what Ive learned.
Later,Eddie