Attex Model

[Campingguy]

I just bought an Attex and don't know the first thing about 6x6 AATVs so am sure happy to see all the great info here. Mine has a Kohler engine swapped into it and so far I haven't found anything that looks like the drive setup mine has (doesn't have a transmission like the manuals posted show - more of a straight shaft). I don't know if it's a modification, early model or what and am not quite sure how to figure it out other than dig thru 6x6 World and hope I find something. I can't wait to get it going!

[LarryW]

I just bought an Attex and don't know the first thing about 6x6 AATVs so am sure happy to see all the great info here. Mine has a Kohler engine swapped into it and so far I haven't found anything that looks like the drive setup mine has (doesn't have a transmission like the manuals posted show - more of a straight shaft). I don't know if it's a modification, early model or what and am not quite sure how to figure it out other than dig thru 6x6 World and hope I find something. I can't wait to get it going!

Welcome to the site campingguy! Sounds like you have a first generation attex with a bakerhill 6000 series transmission. The easiest way to tell the generation is if it has #40 chain and exhaust exits on the left rear or straight out the back.

[Campingguy]

Welcome to the site campingguy! Sounds like you have a first generation attex with a bakerhill 6000 series transmission. The easiest way to tell the generation is if it has #40 chain and exhaust exits on the left rear or straight out the back.

Thanks! I'm excited about learning about these things. I'll have to post some pictures to see whether I can get some help figuring out just what I've got here. It almost looks like whatever transmission was in it was removed and replaced with a straight shaft. Is that something that's sometimes done? I'm also having trouble finding the serial number. I'm in WA State and they require that it be registered so I need to find the serial number and do the paperwork. I looked in the various threads and everything says it should be at the right rear but I've scraped it clean, wire brushed it and lightly sanded it and haven't found a thing.

Thanks again for the welcome. I'm sure gonna need some help on this thing. Being a recently retired diesel mechanic I have the time and tools - just need a little know-how and a lot of money...

[JoeMeg]

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/attachments/attex-atvs/5673d1285590569-my-new-attex-attex_016.jpg

If this works it may help
That's the rear corner of the machine.

[LarryW]

The serial number on the rear corner of the machine is only for the 2nd and 3rd generations. 1st generation had an aluminum number plate glued to the dash. I had the same problem and ended up just making a number up and was going to put it on the machine somewhere but never got that far, lol. The transmissions used in the first gens are 5000, 6000 and 7000 series. The 5000 and 7000 both had reverse. 5000 is somewhat weaker then the beefier 7000. The 6000 was a forward only straight shaft like you describe and was swapped in place at time for racers trying to save every little pound. I weighed them once and it wasnt anything significant in my books as a non racer. The transmission tag on the 6000 is on the transmission cradle. The 5000 and 6000 were on the housing. Post some pictures in the attex section. We all will gladly help you figure it out.

[Campingguy]

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/attac...-attex_016.jpg
If this works it may help
That's the rear corner of the machine.

Mine must be a first generation for sure - The frame isn't near as beefy. Looks to be in good shape though, no cracks, etc.

The serial number on the rear corner of the machine is only for the 2nd and 3rd generations. 1st generation had an aluminum number plate glued to the dash. I had the same problem and ended up just making a number up and was going to put it on the machine somewhere but never got that far, lol. The transmissions used in the first gens are 5000, 6000 and 7000 series. The 5000 and 7000 both had reverse. 5000 is somewhat weaker then the beefier 7000. The 6000 was a forward only straight shaft like you describe and was swapped in place at time for racers trying to save every little pound. I weighed them once and it wasnt anything significant in my books as a non racer. The transmission tag on the 6000 is on the transmission cradle. The 5000 and 6000 were on the housing. Post some pictures in the attex section. We all will gladly help you figure it out.

I'll get some pictures posted today. There's no tag on the dash and it has been painted, so I guess I'm out of luck on a serial number. It has the tag on the transmission cradle that you mentioned, with oil filling instruction and transmission serial number info.

I'll get some pictures posted today. There's no tag on the dash and it has been painted, so I guess I'm out of luck on a serial number. It has the tag on the transmission cradle that you mentioned, with oil filling instruction and transmission serial number info.

I just posted several photos. Is this a straight shaft mod on a 6000 series?

[Campingguy]

Does anyone know what year they changed to the "C" channel frame and is there any kind of list on first generation Attex's that tell how to identify different models and specific years? I'm trying to gather all the info together that I can to hopefully make the process of getting my Attex registered a bit easier. I have an appointment with the WA State Patrol in a few weeks (soonest I could get one) for them to inspect it and assign a serial number to it and anything I can come up with will probably help.

[jpswift1]

This ought to help:

http://www.6x6world.com/images/attex-atv/Attex-6x6-ATV-Identification-List-1.jpg

http://www.6x6world.com/images/attex-atv/Attex-6x6-ATV-Identification-List-2.jpg

http://www.6x6world.com/images/attex-atv/Attex-6x6-ATV-Identification-List-3.jpg

I believe the first generation Attex models were made from 1968-1970. In 1971 and up they changed over to the stronger and much more durable C channel style of frame.

[LarryW]

You have a very early model 225/hustler or possible 297. Though going by the ID list the 297 didnt have the 6000 series backerhill. But they did have the 5000 which was prone to breakage and could have been swapped with the 6000 that you have. You have the loopy sticks and square ended axles. Your axles are the weakest link with the 1/2" square end where the sprocket tubes connect. They will twist. If you look closely at the sides of the front end you might be able to read what the stickers said. Even if the stickers are gone they seem to protect the plastic underneath and leaves a mark that is noticeable even after sanding where the stickers were.

You will gain a lot of low end power and high end speed if you could get the right drive clutch/belt on that machine. It looks like a comet 40? which is 4 1/2" diameter I believe. The Salisbury are like 7 1/2" diameter so you gain top end. Plus with the proper belt you will gain low end torque with a lower take off drive ratio. That skinny belt is sitting way to far into the driven pulley which basically makes that pulley a smaller diameter ratio wise.

[Campingguy]

You have a very early model 225/hustler or possible 297. Though going by the ID list the 297 didnt have the 6000 series backerhill. But they did have the 5000 which was prone to breakage and could have been swapped with the 6000 that you have. You have the loopy sticks and square ended axles. Your axles are the weakest link with the 1/2" square end where the sprocket tubes connect. They will twist. If you look closely at the sides of the front end you might be able to read what the stickers said. Even if the stickers are gone they seem to protect the plastic underneath and leaves a mark that is noticeable even after sanding where the stickers were.

You will gain a lot of low end power and high end speed if you could get the right drive clutch/belt on that machine. It looks like a comet 40? which is 4 1/2" diameter I believe. The Salisbury are like 7 1/2" diameter so you gain top end. Plus with the proper belt you will gain low end torque with a lower take off drive ratio. That skinny belt is sitting way to far into the driven pulley which basically makes that pulley a smaller diameter ratio wise.

Great info and I appreciate it! I'm jumping through hoops with the state DOL to get it registered so that I'll be able to get an ORV license but am almost there. The people at the DOL have been very helpful and I have an appointment in 2 weeks to have a serial number assigned. They told me that they don't do a lot of these and that I should bring along any particulars that will help nail down year, make and model. Is there a serial number list telling what year my transmission was built? I've been digging through the mass of info on here trying to locate what I can to figure it all out. The body has been painted black and I don't know whether the model number would show up if I stripped the paint. Worth a try though and I plan to paint it again anyway. I'd normally take it down with acetone but that's not a good plan with ABS. I'll have to play around with MEK and toluene, maybe lacquer thinner though it has acetone in it if I remember right. I'll bet you're right on it being a 225 vs. the 297. Did both have the exhaust at the left rear (which is where mine was originally).

What do you mean by loopy sticks? I'll look at the clutch tomorrow and see what it is. I cleaned out the fuel tank and float bowl today and will put fresh gas in tomorrow and see how it runs. My left rear axle is bent so once it's running I'll jack it up and block it so I can see how the rest look with it running. Is there a recommended way to upgrade the axles? Fabrication and welding isn't a problem. The belt didn't look right to me but I have been dragging my feet on really getting going until I have a registration for it with my name on it. The guy I got it from is a great guy and I'm sure is completely honest but I don't know anything about the previous owners or whether there could be a problem. Don't want to waste time and money on it and then find out there's a glitch of some sort. Pretty doubtful there'll be any kind of problem but not worth gambling with.

[LarryW]

By the loopy sticks I mean there is a big curve in them. If you look through the gallery they are either basically straight with an angle near the grips or have a big loop in them. The earlier models have the curve. A big upgrade on your axles is to find a shop that can take a 1" shaft and put it in a lathe and get like half of the length down to 25mm. Then drill 2 holes. I cant remember on the recommended steel to use but if you search the site you will probably find something. Im not sure on the length or measurements. Then you can just use them and not have to mess with the bearings. Or if you are lucky you can find 6 from a later model first generation and swap them in.

[Campingguy]

LarryW - You nailed it on the Model! Clutch too. I dampened a rag with just a bit of acetone and lightly rubbed the paint to give it a sheen and when you look almost straight along the body in the direct sunlight there it is: 225 Hustler! The clutch is a Comet. Gotta get the right sixe and type of belt on it. Besides being the wrong size the belt even says "Not for use on Clutching Drives" right on it.

My two rear axles seem to have been upgraded from the 1/2" square drive but I'm going to pull them all and get them right before I get too serious about anything. I dug thru the discussions on axles and see steel recommendations of 4130, 4140 and 1144. I'll have to do more digging. I'll probably just throw my bent one in the press and heat treat it, then run it until this winter when I plan to strip the Attex down, go completely through it, strengthen the frame and so on.

The identification list that's posted in the brochures section says the 225 Hustler was produced in 1970 & 1971. Do you happen to know whether there's anything that would identify which year mine is?

[LarryW]

Glad your getting some information about your 225/Hustler. As far as exactly what year it is, there really isnt a way. There may have been if it had the original clutch if it was a salsbury. They date stamped the year on them. If the transmission is original it seems like you could tell by the serial number but Im not sure if there is any list of what numbers was used in each year. Im pretty sure there isnt a list as I have never seen one. But if there was that would be cool if it was recorded by model and year.

[Campingguy]

I was hoping maybe there'd be some kind of a bracket change or something between the two years but I'm not surprised. I put fresh gas in it yesterday and started it up and the clutch doesn't seem to be engaging when I rev it up so will have to see what's up there. It sat for 4 years but he drove it in to where he parked it so hopefully just needs to be cleaned up. I'll pop in to the industrial belt place I use and get a proper belt tomorrow and then see what I find on the clutch. I've had to do that on my old 60's vintage tote-gote a couple of times over the years because I've let it sit for such long periods.