Thanks Drew

[L.D.Bruce]

I went ahead and pulled everything out glad I did I found about a 1" split in the corner of the tub that I will repair and a broken cross member. Do you use your front brakes? They don't seem to work very well I'm thinking about not installing them back. I could also use some tips on timing and points I was going to install the electronic Ingnition but not until the motor needs to be rebuilt

[Don]

Nice project, LD. It's always a good idea to leave the emergency brake installed- when you're in neutral at the T20, you have no brakes. Bud almost wiped out his sister's new car learning this fact. The points can still be found at Manufacturer's Supply, and if they don't carry them any longer I most likely have new sets. It's easy to set them, especially while the engine's out. The Chap manual is on this site for the specs (go by the G44B specifications and you'll be fine.)

Good Luck!

[L.D.Bruce]

I'm lucky in the sence the frame and inside the machine was well cared for I had the axles out in a half hour. My points should be fine the last owner put a new strator plate in I just want to clean and check them while the are out. And do a good adjustment on the t20 while I have the room.

[coosaridgerider]

Ld,You are lucky with the axle part.I had to cut all the bearings,hubs out of my attex.Very nice project.

[L.D.Bruce]

Anyone ever put sheet metal down in the bottom of the tub? I noticed at one time the rear chains look like they dragged on the bottom I thought about installing a piece of 16 ga steel in these areas. I also wanted to know has anyone ever installed springs on the rear slack adjuster? I was going to install a spring between cross member and base of idler sproket to cut down on movement. I did find a missing motor mount nut. I replaced all inner bearings Also welding gussest on the rear sproket tubes

[L.D.Bruce]

chain rub

i noticed that at one times my rear chains had rubbed the tub I cut to pieces of 16 ga sheet metat to place under the sprokets should this clear ok?

[hydromike]

i noticed that at one times my rear chains had rubbed the tub I cut to pieces of 16 ga sheet metat to place under the sprokets should this clear ok?

Hey L.D.,

To quote an old, crusty Attex guy that's been in the hobby for like 200 years (guessing at that value... Hi Joe... ) "That chain is going to win that battle...."

Keeping the rear chains tight on a 4-chain Attex model (Chief, Superchief, Spirit, 'Truck, etc.) can be a bit of a pain. I've seen folks put a thin (1/4" or 3/16") piece of HDPE or UHMW HDPE) below the chains to keep them off the lower tub, but steel is going to be chewed through a lot more quickly. The steel will probably protect the lower tub for quite a while, but working with HDPE is pretty easy. It's easily riveted to the lower tub like the steel would be, and will outlast the steel by an order of magnitude. Even the 6 chain Attex machines suffer from this malady from time to time. I think you'd be in good shape to just procure a 1/4" thick, by a few inch wide piece of HDPE instead of the steel.

Plastic; It's the new steel. Sorta.....

[mustangwagz]

Plastic; It's the new steel. Sorta....

Yup, their making skid plates for atvs and utv's outta it now. and as all the 6x6's have already proven, HDPE or just about any plastic for that matter, slides over rocks N stuff alot smoother/better.

[Dan67]

Hey L.D.,

To quote an old, crusty Attex guy that's been in the hobby for like 200 years (guessing at that value... Hi Joe... ) "That chain is going to win that battle...."

Keeping the rear chains tight on a 4-chain Attex model (Chief, Superchief, Spirit, 'Truck, etc.) can be a bit of a pain. I've seen folks put a thin (1/4" or 3/16") piece of HDPE or UHMW HDPE) below the chains to keep them off the lower tub, but steel is going to be chewed through a lot more quickly. The steel will probably protect the lower tub for quite a while, but working with HDPE is pretty easy. It's easily riveted to the lower tub like the steel would be, and will outlast the steel by an order of magnitude. Even the 6 chain Attex machines suffer from this malady from time to time. I think you'd be in good shape to just procure a 1/4" thick, by a few inch wide piece of HDPE instead of the steel.

Plastic; It's the new steel. Sorta.....

I'd go with strips of HDPE, that is what I used on my Hustler rebuild. Instead of riveting it down you could use a soldering iron and tack weld it to the bottom tub. Just enough to keep it there but still allow it to flex as the body flexs while driving.

[L.D.Bruce]

Thanks for the tips I spent yesterday welding up the front frame I had a broken cross member that the brake pads bolted to broke clean in two and the front rail was cracked in two as well . I welded a full length of flat bar aross the front. It is thicker than the factory rail. I did feel some body flex from the front left I guess caused by the above cracks. What is your thoughts on adding springs to the rear idler pulley? To me it seems it would keep a constant pressure on the front of the rail allowing for less movement. My 4140 round bar will be here monday as well as my new 22x11x8 tires. I hope to have the tub and frame back in today

[Don]

The chains tend to rub bottom on the HDPE Attex bodies on the right side especially. I saw one of the Gerber's machines with a 1" piece of lumber under the frame on the right side to keep the body from warping up and allowing the chain to rub on that side. The plastic tends to form up to the frame on the right because there's no real support for it- the inside frame member is too far to the right and won't keep the body down. I've used some pieces of oak flooring to do this and it works well- just drill a couple small holes in the round members so you can screw the wood into place.

Good luck!

[L.D.Bruce]

Got the frame back in the tub man it was a big deal to line the flange holes up looks like the factory or owner had problems in the past and relocated 2 bolt holes. I'm not hooking anything else up until monday when my 4140 round gets here