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Removing Drive Belt

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  • Removing Drive Belt

    Looks like after getting everything back in the tub the T 20 is now leaking at the bottom a large amount I did a fluid change when I had the frame out of the tub it is not leaking from the plug. It seems to be leaking where the 2 cases are joined at the bottom. My question is how do you adjust the slack in the drive belt to remove the trans? There is no way I'm pulling that frame again
    Last edited by Mike; 06-05-2012, 07:59 PM. Reason: renamed thread something descriptive

  • #2
    I always just pop a clutch off to get the belt off. Doesn't really matter which one.
    l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

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    • #3
      I've managed to roll the belt off the driven clutch. Takes some determination but it'll go. Do the same to to put it back on.
      Banned

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      • #4
        If you separate the shieves of the driven clutch, you can roll the belt off it to the inside and that will give enough slack to roll it off the drive clutch. It may take some persistance, depending on how good the spring is on the driven.
        Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

        (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Don View Post
          If you separate the shieves of the driven clutch, you can roll the belt off it to the inside and that will give enough slack to roll it off the drive clutch. It may take some persistance, depending on how good the spring is on the driven.
          Thats the same thing I do. I find if I grab the belt in between the clutches and pull it up while trying to separate the pulley faces it helps. If your driven is the kind with the ramps, if you spin the one side, then yank on the belt, spin it some more, yank.... It gets it loose pretty easily and the belt gets sucked in which usually hold the sheaves apart.

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