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  • #16
    T-20

    Originally posted by Mike View Post
    Dan, what happened to the mighty max?
    It was making bad grinding noises that kept getting worse. I pulled the T-20 and sent it back to the factory. Matt in parts says he thinks the drums are polished and they will have to be resurfaced. While it's up there there I am going to pay to have spockets on the T-20 reduced from a 15 tooth gear to a 12 tooth gear. This will give me a 20% gear reduction and take stress off the drive train so this doesn't happen again. I am still considering going to a brown spring clutch, but I am really happy with the way the red spring engages so I'll probably stay with the red spring. I am trying to figure out some way to add an oil cooler to the transmission to keep the fluids cool. I have been looking for a 12 volt electric oil pump but no one seems to make what I need other than very expensive racing applications. I am open for ideas to keep that T-20 running a little cooler. While the T-20 is out I am going through the whole machine just to make sure everything is right.THX
    Last edited by mightymaxIV; 03-19-2008, 06:04 PM.

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    • #17
      MMIV northern tool makes a 12 volt 5.25 gpm oil transfer pump that will work. You may want to split the flow to lower the flow rate through the cooler down to 1or 2 gpm. You can parallel a small spin on filter for the other leg. There is no drain port on the T-20 so you will have to over fill the trans to use a cooler.
      Acta non verba

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      • #18
        I think you could tap a hole in the bottom and top then run a pump with cooler and increase your fluid capacity.

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        • #19
          Use something like this as a mean to circulate your atf.

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          • #20
            Ok, I'm sure I will get some crap over this.
            Atf is a lightweight high pressure lubricant, do you think a cheap electric fuel pump would circulate it through a filter and cooler? I've used one to pump oil from a drum, but not longterm.
            It was just a thought, might not work, but a cheap fuel pump is only about $20.
            Bruce

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            • #21
              I've thought about those ideas.. yeah an argo guy who's never owned a T20. I have overhauled a lot of automatics though. Dan, keep in mind heat is generated from friction, ie the bands working(slipping). I think the right way to drive a T20 is make the belt do the clutching, and avoid making the bands work under throttle when possible. Easier said than done. When a band or clutch plate in an automatic slips, if makes heat, which can glaze the friction material, excessive heat degenerates the material. And the metal friction plates and (drums) get polished which aggravates chatter. Also fluid loses it's qualities when overheated.
              To Invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. (Thomas Edison)

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              • #22
                I just now had a chance to sit down and watch the video. I really liked the splashes at 2:00 and 2:26

                Hope you get your trans back fast so you can get back on the trails. I'm sure you need your 6x6 fix by now as much as you are used to riding.

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                • #23
                  I don't know if the pump I posted was considered to be cheap. I wouldn't call that particular pump cheap. It is a continuous duty pump. He mentioned running it through a cooler to help reduce the temperature inside the transmission. I don't recall a filter being mentioned.

                  Here are the specs on the pump an it could work with a filter.

                  GP302-12 -- 12 VDC / 60 PSI / 3 GPM - 11.4 LPM / 15 AMP CB / weight 6 lbs. Gear Pump for use as a Continuous Duty Pre-Oiler and Back-Up Oil Pump; or for the transfer of Lube Oil, Diesel Fuel, Antifreeze and Water; bronze gears/stainless shafts, brass pump body with lip seal; -6 fittings -- $405 via cash, check or money order / $421.20 credit card price, plus S & H and CA Sales Tax (if you live in CA).

                  GP302-24
                  Last edited by jerrynuss; 03-20-2008, 12:31 AM.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by jerrynuss View Post
                    I think you could tap a hole in the bottom and top then run a pump with cooler and increase your fluid capacity.
                    This is more of what I had I mind.. One hole tapped in the bottom with a pump and a cooler hung from the rear of my roll bar. Whipper could probably offer some help here. Jerry thanks for the suggestions. Roger, its all about keeping it cool, and thats what I want to do.
                    Last edited by mightymaxIV; 03-20-2008, 03:55 AM.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by hdble View Post
                      Ok, I'm sure I will get some crap over this.
                      Atf is a lightweight high pressure lubricant, do you think a cheap electric fuel pump would circulate it through a filter and cooler? I've used one to pump oil from a drum, but not longterm.
                      It was just a thought, might not work, but a cheap fuel pump is only about $20.
                      I HAVE REALLY CONSIDERED THAT KEEPING THE COOLER ON THE FRAME, BUT THE ATF FLUID WILL BE HOT AND IT COULD CAUSE A PUMP FAIULURE. EVEN IF IT FAILED I WOULD STILL HAVE TWO QUARTS OF FLUID AND IT WOULD RUN COOLER THAN NO COOLER AT ALL! HUMMMMMM? HOW CAN I LOSE? I'AM THINKING ABOUT IT. THX DAN

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                      • #26
                        Hi Dan,

                        What ever you decide to do, post how it works out, it might be something the rest of us need to try also.
                        You probably would like to be up and runnung asap, like Mike said you could be needing a Max fix for relaxation.
                        Thanks for the videos you post, I enjoy watching them.

                        Have a great day.
                        Bruce

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                        • #27
                          I thought of cooling the t-20 on my 440 racer and decided against it after it seems that the old racers did not cool the the t-20. My springer is not cooled but I think it may be over filled. I think it would more economical to check the temp of the T-20 during your hard riding with a infrared temp unit. Your trans failure may be a factory flaw and not related to heat.
                          Acta non verba

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                          • #28
                            Mack Truck Pressure relief valve

                            Originally posted by jerseybigfoot View Post
                            I thought of cooling the t-20 on my 440 racer and decided against it after it seems that the old racers did not cool the the t-20. My springer is not cooled but I think it may be over filled. I think it would more economical to check the temp of the T-20 during your hard riding with a infrared temp unit. Your trans failure may be a factory flaw and not related to heat.
                            Thanks for the info. The one thing that I am going to do for sure Is put a pressure relief valve designed for a mack truck differental part # 541k829. This will allow the hot air to escape and take care of my problem. If it doesn't work well enough I'll go to an oil cooler. One thing everyone should consider is that about 80% of the time I am in extreme swamp conditions, mud, or something else that creates heat, so part of it may be the area and type of driving I do. I thank everyone for the advice. Everything is being considered now.

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