chain frame guards

[ezryder]

Looking at a newer Argo the other day and saw it had a guard over the frame where the chain rubs it. Looks to be made of polycarb or lexan? My old beater Hustler doesnt have these, so im thinking of making some. Anyone know for sure what they're made of?

[thebuggyman1]

Make them out of UHMW Poly-Ethylene, that's what many chain tensioners are made from. It's cheap and easily machined. McMaster-Carr

[hydromike]

I did this on my 980, and so have others. Here's a shot of Dan67's UHMW sliders. They're simple to make, and you can just rivet them in place and replace them if ever necessary.

[chris davison]

Mc master sells chain guides already machined for your size chain buy it in 4' lengths and cut what you need. All my chain tentioners are made of it.

[jpswift1]

Mc master sells chain guides already machined for your size chain buy it in 4' lengths and cut what you need. All my chain tentioners are made of it.

I didn't know you could get that. I could use some on my Attex chain tensioners, as well as my Hustler.

Here's the link:

McMaster-Carr

[ezryder]

I didn't know you could get that. I could use some on my Attex chain tensioners, as well as my Hustler.

Here's the link:

McMaster-Carr

You guys are awesome! Thank you for the pics and the link.
How do you attach the pre-made guides from McMaster? Looks like the only way is to go straight down through the guide into the frame, in which case the chain will be running across the rivet/screw head?
I really like the pic of the ones Mike posted where they have ends that slide over the frame so you can attach them from each end. Where did Dan 67 get those at Mike?

[hydromike]

How do you attach the pre-made guides from McMaster? Looks like the only way is to go straight down through the guide into the frame, in which case the chain will be running across the rivet/screw head?

I was actually thinking about this when I clicked on the link. The easiest way would be to just rivet them down to the frame, but you'll eventually run into the exact problem you mention, EZ. I don't think there's enough thickness on the bottom of these sliders to countersink the rivet head and still have enough material to hold it to whatever you're holding it to. Recreatives makes a very similar unit for their ratchet-style front chain adjusters. I'm using one (yeah, just one) on my 980, and they're thick enough to get a good countersunk rivet in there.

I really like the pic of the ones Mike posted where they have ends that slide over the frame so you can attach them from each end. Where did Dan 67 get those at Mike?

I think Dan had those made up by some folks that were helping him with his frame. Buggyman isn't kidding when he says that UHMW is easy to machine. UHMW holds up extremely well to simple abrasion, but it cuts like butter with a hack saw or drill bit. You can head over to McMaster (or other places... McMaster's Site is just so easily laid out, their shipping is fast and cheap, etc.... I have no loyalty, though... ) and get some rectangular UHMW bar stock and get it cut/machined to your specific size. I used some 3/8 thick by 1" wide UHMW to make the front and rear chain adjusters on my Swamp Fox. I think I have two 3/16" steel rivets holding each one down. I think I countersunk them each 3/16" in to the UHMW. The way that stuff is wearing, I have a long time until it comes close to the rivets. Initially, the side plates of the chain chew into the UHMW a tiny bit on the front and rear of the blocks, and that seems to keep the chain centered.

[chris davison]

The chain tentioners I made from the mcmaster material were for #80 chain and I countersunk them for a stainless flat head screw with a nyloc nut on the back thru the thick center section both ends. I also have a 1/8" x 3" uhmw piece siliconed on the hull so chains wont wear thru the hull if they drag.