Which Grease Gun and Grease?

[bearclaw46]

As stated before I just bought a new Frontier 6x6. I'm already anticipating the maintenance. I have another question. I'm going to invest in a new grease gun just for the Argo, what brand AND type of grease should I get for all these bearings and such?? I guess a gun with a flexible hose would be best but what about grease?? Any recommendations??

I already have checked with Carquest here in Anchorage for a Mityvac so might as well buy that then if I can get some suggestions here buy the grease also.

Thanks
bearclaw46

[Cougar]

I guess a gun with a flexible hose would be best but what about grease??

Thanks
bearclaw46

I have air grease gun with a flexible hose on it , it makes getting them hard to get ones no problem. Cougar

[artist1018]

TSC (Tractor Supply Co.) & Harbor Freight have fair prices on grease guns & grease, as do Walmart & Kmart, I'm sure!

[GREASEMONKEY]

Using a marine grade synthetic grease is the way to go! I sound like an advertisment, but AMSOIL is just about the only brand anything I use anymore! It's a bit costly, but worth every penny. Being a mechanic i look at things like the grade's, and additives in oil, grease, trans. fluid. AMSOIL is at the top of the list.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/gwr.aspx

[bearclaw46]

Synthetic grease

Greasemonkey, I bought some marine bearing grease from Carquest. I just read your reply here and wish I would have seen it before I went out and bought this regular marine bearing grease. I'm wondering about the synthetic grease, is it that much better than petroleum based stuff?? I remember way back when, in the early 80's, my cousin changed his oil in his new Mustang with synthetic based oil and it ate all of his gaskets. He had to replace most of his gaskets. I'm sure there's been a marked improvement since then but what's so good about synthetic oil/grease?? anyone?? anyone??

[Swamper]

I am new to this forum, but I agree with Greasmonkey about the synthetic lube. I am also a mechanic and a have drag raced for well over thirty years and my cars and my Harley Davidson use sythentic lube. Synthetic lube reduces the friction which in turn reduces wear on mating surfaces and also reduces heat which in certain areas causes a lot of damage. Marine grade in the axle bearings helps to keep the water out. You will not regret using synthetic lube. If you want to use it the engine, make sure it is broken in first. If you don't, the rings will not "seat"

[bearclaw46]

mixing the grease

Swamper,
can you inject the synthetic grease in your zerk fittings if you've been using regular petroleum based grease?? I mean, will it mix ok?? I don't want to really waste this brand new tube I bought from Carquest, so figuring my next and future cartridges will be synthetic. Sounds good to me tho about less wear and friction.

Dennis

[Swamper]

Swamper,
can you inject the synthetic grease in your zerk fittings if you've been using regular petroleum based grease?? I mean, will it mix ok?? I don't want to really waste this brand new tube I bought from Carquest, so figuring my next and future cartridges will be synthetic. Sounds good to me tho about less wear and friction.

Dennis

In my race cars that I had, the parts were almost always new when I applied the grease to the tie rod ends and other parts. With my Harley, I disassembled the wheel and swing arm bearings and then lubed them with the synthetic grease. I do know that when I was in the military the pertoleum base and synthetic grease were constantly mixed. I noticed after disassembling some parts that it appeared the two lubes mixed well. I am sure that there is someone on this forum that has mixed the two greases and probably could answer better. Hope this helps. Cheers.

[GREASEMONKEY]

My recomendation is to remove as much of the old grease as possible, and then apply new. Just adding synthetic to conventional is basically defeating the purpose! I'm checking into the amsoil's life expectancy on small engines! I went from 3K to 15K oil changes in my Jeep, but not sure of the service intervals on small engines.

[bearclaw46]

Swamper, Greasemonkey,

I don't know of any Amsoil rep up here or where I can get it, however, I'm sure Schucks will have the synthetic grease & oil of some good brand. Thanks for the advice on Synthetic oil about engine break in. What's a good hourly rate for a Briggs & Stratton 23hp to break in?? 20 hrs?? Also, does synthetic oil viscosity rating work the same as petroleum based AND the ratings, you know the letters, used to be MS for motor severe and now it's changed to who knows what, which one do I get??

I really like my Argo so far and am totally dedicated to keeping it maintained properly.

[GREASEMONKEY]

I don't know of any Amsoil rep up here or where I can get it, however, I'm sure Schucks will have the synthetic grease & oil of some good brand. Thanks for the advice on Synthetic oil about engine break in. What's a good hourly rate for a Briggs & Stratton 23hp to break in?? 20 hrs?? Also, does synthetic oil viscosity rating work the same as petroleum based AND the ratings, you know the letters, used to be MS for motor severe and now it's changed to who knows what, which one do I get??

I really like my Argo so far and am totally dedicated to keeping it maintained properly.

If you want to try the amsoil go to the web site and become a rep! It will save you some money, and you can be the only rep in the area! Corner the market now! If you don't want to be a rep, you can just buy from the site!

[bearclaw46]

Got this off a Valvoline site

I was wondering about the letter classifications on the side of a quart of oil. When I went to auto-diesel school back in the early 70's I learned about API ratings but I don't know if a lot of you folks know they do mean something. I used to look for SE on the sides of oil cans back then, apparently, looks like that went the way of the old oil can. Anyway, here they are for your info:

The API system revolves around two general classification: S for Service (typical passenger cars and light trucks) and C for commercial applications (typical diesel equipment). The breakdown of "S" varieties is as follows:
SA: This is a plain mineral oil that doesn't contain additives common in today's high-tech lubricants. This oil was primarily used in the 1920s and is obsolete today.
SB: Lubes that contain anti-wear and oxidation inhibitors as well as corrosion inhibitors. This oil was primarily in use prior to 1964, was created for vehicles that saw moderate conditions and is obsolete today.
SC: This classification was originally recommended for use in 1964-67 vehicles. It contains additives that control rust, wear, corrosion and engine deposits. It too is now obsolete.
SD: SD lubes were recommended for use in 1968-70 vehicles as well as certain post-1970 passenger cars. This oil contains the same additive packages as the SC class and can be used in place of it. SD is obsolete today.
SE: This category was recommended for certain 1971 vehicles as well as most 1972 vehicles. This classification offered more protection than the SD group of lubricants and was suitable for severe-duty applications. This classification is used in place of SD oils, but it is now obsolete.
SF: Recommended with 1988 and older passenger vehicles. This oil has superior anti-wear properties and enhanced oxidation stability over SE lubricants. It too is obsolete today.
SG: The SG rating was introduced in 1989 and combined the performance properties of the commercial rating CC (lubricants designed for use in supercharged/turbocharged diesel applications in moderate to severe service). Its designated use is for 1993 and older engines, and is also obsolete.
SH: Now obsolete, SH was designed for 1996 and older engines.
SJ: Introduced in 1996, this rating is for all automotive engines, early 2001 and older and is still current.
SL: This rating is for all gasoline engines currently in use. SL oils are manufactured for better high-temperature deposit control and lower oil consumption. Some SL oils also qualify as "Energy Conserving." SL is the most current of all categories. Look shortly for the soon-to-be-announced SM category.
Generally speaking, think of the API system as a blueprint for oil. In order to gain an API classification, oil manufacturers have to follow a set of limitations. This creates a few problems for oil companies, especially those who produce racing oils. Race oil must conform to viscosity-grade standards but not to those for chemical-additive composition and base-oil composition. That's why you'll find several brands of race oil without API classifications.
To get the most from your engine oil, always follow the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation for oil change intervals and refer to your owner's manual for the type of oil to use in your specific vehicle, being sure to choose the correct SAE viscosity and the recommended API category. And—as always—make sure to properly and safely discard your used motor oil. For more information about disposal, contact: Used Motor Oil Collection and Recycling - American Petroleum Institute.

[Roger S]

I don't remember the specifics, but have heard the government lowered the allowable levels of certain elements of the addative packages in engine oil, like zinc. Exempted are racing oils. Also seems like any multiweight in a 10-X were too, but not a 20-X multiweight. Guess I need to research this more.

[REELLS]

Hi Roger,
Regarding your oil comment. I also read some where that the zinc content has been reduced as you indicated. I talked to a friend of mine at the local NAPA store about this. He said the reduced zinc levels only affected flat tappet engines. He suggested that to be on the safe side regarding lawn mowers older gasoline tractors and old cars with non hydraulic cams to run diesel grade motor oil, like ROTELLA . I only use rotella in the Briggs in my MAX . Saw your creek bed video, WAY COOL. NEVER heard a Briggs motor sound like that.

[Roger S]

That's what I gather too, Bob. Also phosphorous goes hand in hand to make zinc do it's job.. they lowered the allowable limits with the idea to extend catalytic converter life in older cars that burn oil. I'm not sure which oils still have good amounts of additives besides Rotella. Some guys add a measured amount of STP, oddly enough. It, and the additive cam makers sell for break in are sources for zinc/phosphorous. Maybe I'll become a rotella guy.