Homemade Conquest Hardtop Build Thread

[bluebruin]

This will be a build thread for enclosing the aluminum hardtop on my argo with windows and doors.

Its an Argo Conquest 8x8. I bought it this fall. It has an aluminum hardtop that came as an option when the original owner bought it at the dealer (I was told). Here is what it looks like:



The guy i bought it from, attempted to waterproof the roof. The original hardtop is a square tube aluminum frame, but the aluminum skin is on the underside of the frame, so snow and ice built up in the trough's on the on top, causing him issues. He put 1.5" eps foam insulation in the troughs and then covered the whole top with FRP fiberglass panels (the kind you buy from home depot to put on a commercial bathroom wall). Then, at some point, he added a "roof rack" made of old skis. He must have had some leaks along the center of the roof, because he used two FRP panels and that's where they joined. So looks like the whole thing was slathered in roofing tar and spray painted white. The edges and screws were covered in some type of white mastic or goop. Very ugly.


I will be replacing this roof when I build the new enclosed cab.

Here is how it sits now:


Here is what it will look like:


I plan to use 12mm baltic birch plywood, and then polycarbonate for the windows.

[bluebruin]

photo of the insulation after tearing off the "rack" and FRP panel


Here is the trough under the insulation.

[guyvapeur]

I am always interested in seeing a build....Given that you already have the cube built, you are well on your way to having a comfortable cab... The snow in your pics tells me you live in an area where a dry warm place to sit is sometimes desireable. Good Luck... Keep up the pics...

[bluebruin]

I live in Conifer, CO, at 8200ft. But our cabin, which we need the argo for access, is at 11,000ft right at treeline, below mt sherman near fairplay, CO. its winter is usually -20 to 20 deg and WINDY most the time so I think an enclosed cab will be great.

[thorn]

2014-03-09 11.43.39.jpgI am interested in seeing this transform. I live in Utah, but I bought my Conquest in Colorado and it appears I have the same top with soft sides, but I want to see how the hard sides turn out. I love the top and my top is sealed/enclosed in aluminum and has not had the leakage (knock on wood). Those tracks must do well in the deep snow. Did you have the soft sides on the hard top?

[riotwarrior]

This is going to be a closely watched thread for sure....

Hope see some video of this machine in action....

Thanks for sharing.

[guyvapeur]

Something caught my eye when I first looked at the pictures. On second look, I noticed that skis had been used as strength members but run the length of the roof. I was just thinking that a ski with the front curl cut off would make a fine cross member. They are pre-shaped and stressed to have a bend. Like the big trailer that have a bend to take on the load. That might just be enough to keep the roof from sagging in the middle. They do not weigh a lot and around here, the good will store gives them away come spring.
*****After re-reading your initial piece, what you describe as a rack may in fact be an attempt by the previous owner to support the center portion of the roof to prevent puddling....which is what I mention above.*****
good luck

[bluebruin]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]13132[/ATTACH]I am interested in seeing this transform. I live in Utah, but I bought my Conquest in Colorado and it appears I have the same top with soft sides, but I want to see how the hard sides turn out. I love the top and my top is sealed/enclosed in aluminum and has not had the leakage (knock on wood). Those tracks must do well in the deep snow. Did you have the soft sides on the hard top?

it has the clips and channel to hold the soft top, but the previous owner said the top was shredded and thrown out years back. this argo came from Grand Junction, so it does not surprise me yours probably came from same dealer.

[JohnF]

I have the very same top and the problem with it as designed is that water will collect in the trough and then is supposed to drain through holes drilled in the corner through the upright tubes. Well, in the winter that water will freeze and bust the welds in the corners and split the tubes.

I welded mine back up, welded the split tubes (they are still bulged), welded 2 inch square tubes cross members in the roof, pop riveted the ceiling up to the new framework (ice warps it), and used 3m5200 to glue a sheet of aluminum on top.

Ed (from Argo Outdoor Sports in Grand Junction - no longer there) hooked me up with a new soft side. If you are interested in a soft side solution we could probably meet up at Pauls Custom Canvas shop and I'll show them what I have so they could make a copy.

[bluebruin]

I have the very same top and the problem with it as designed is that water will collect in the trough and then is supposed to drain through holes drilled in the corner through the upright tubes. Well, in the winter that water will freeze and bust the welds in the corners and split the tubes.

I welded mine back up, welded the split tubes (they are still bulged), welded 2 inch square tubes cross members in the roof, pop riveted the ceiling up to the new framework (ice warps it), and used 3m5200 to glue a sheet of aluminum on top.

Ed (from Argo Outdoor Sports in Grand Junction - no longer there) hooked me up with a new soft side. If you are interested in a soft side solution we could probably meet up at Pauls Custom Canvas shop and I'll show them what I have so they could make a copy.

thanks! that's a very generous offer! but, I know it will cost $1k or more, and honestly I just don't have the budget. Also, I think a hardtop might standup to being outside better, as well as being trailered. I can get most the materials I need for my hardtop cheap through work, so I am going to give it a shot. I think it will cost be about $200-300.

[JohnF]

... I love the top and my top is sealed/enclosed in aluminum ...

Way back when I chatted with Ed about how the top was made. Only the first few has the roof built upside down and then they switched and put the roof sheet on top. Yours looks like one of the later roofs.

By the way, if the guy in Grand Junction that welded those up is still in business he will re-weld broken welds for free. I don't know who he is, I got a hold of him through Ed. I had him fix mine once. I re-welded once and then the third time I did the roof reconfigure. Mine lives outside in my driveway.

... but, I know it will cost $1k or more, ...

have some experience with Paul's? (Actually, they did a travel cover for my boat last year and it wasn't too bad for this area.)

But I think the shop Ed used to use would do one for $650 or so.

It will be interesting to see your hard top. I was thinking of building one myself someday out of 1/4 coosa or thermo-lite board. Strong, light, waterproof. I do like the soft top though as it makes it easy to run with everything open. It gets pretty warm in there sometimes.

[bluebruin]

thanks! that's a very generous offer! but, I know it will cost $1k or more, and honestly I just don't have the budget. Also, I think a hardtop might standup to being outside better, as well as being trailered. I can get most the materials I need for my hardtop cheap through work, so I am going to give it a shot. I think it will cost be about $200-300.

great info. thanks for sharing. no experience with Paul's but i know how much soft tops run, and I can't imagine a custom one costing any less. Coosa sounds like cools stuff. I am cutting this on my CNC router at work, so I have to go with plastic or wood. Everything is so expensive though. I can get exterior grade plywood through work for a decent price and then I will coat it with some type of oil based paint. I have considered foam core PVC as its less expensive that some plastics, but its a bit too flexible and doesn't take paint well, and you would still have to paint it since its not UV stable. thermo-lite board sounds cool too, bet that's not cheap.

funny you should mention the welding, I just noticed yesterday that one of the angle supports on the hardtop is cracked at the weld. if you can dig up the guys contact info, I'd like to talk to him about getting it fixed next time I am out that way.

I am building in an operable window in the front doors, and an operable tailgate glass, so hopefully I can ventilate if it gets too hot.

[bluebruin]

I have most of the plans drawn up for the top. It will be 12mm (1/2") Baltic Birch (high number of ply's, very strong). Its relatively thick plywood, but most of the top is actually cut out since the windows and doors are so large. So, I don't think it will weigh all that much. Unfortunately, that means a lot of wasted plywood as you can see here in my drawing. But, by making it from continuous pieces of plywood, it should remain strong. This plywood is very strong. The 4x8 sheets use "exterior" glue, as opposed to the common 5x5 sheets that use interior rated glue.



Next I will program it into partworks for our 5x8 shopbot cnc router. Hope it works out, you only get one shot before you waste a ton of nice plywood.

[bluebruin]

this project is on hold until I can solve my power issues (ie no HP at 11,000ft). no sense in adding weight until I know I have sufficient power to use the argo.

[bluebruin]

power issues solved. will start working on hardtop again. After using argo at our cabin a few times, we've realized a few things. It would be nice to design hardtop in easily removable panels so that we can ride open air on nice days. also, the crosswinds on highway 285 on our way to the cabin make a soft top of any type impossible. It will get shredded on the drive to and from. we want an enclosed cab so we can pack our bags etc and put them inside the argo for the trip to the cabin so we don't have to pack the jeep, then transfer everything to the argo once we get to the bottom of the road at the cabin. also, weight is a major factor. in deep powder at the cabin, the argo does noticeably better even with a few hundred pounds less in cargo. The hard top must be light to minimize impact on performance.