I was just curious what kind of paint you guys use when you repaint your frames on your 6x6 restoration projects? I thought that gloss black would be the best way to go since Max frames come painted this way from the factory, and the fact that with gloss black the dirt and grease would be less likely to stick to it. I thought if flat or semi gloss black was used, debris would be more likely to stick to the frame. I would appreciate you all sharing some of your ideas. Thanks.
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I am about to yank mine out and paint it gloss black while I have everything apart. I will just use a brush on Rustoleum. I used this on my Jeep frame and it looks great and hasn't chipped off. I don't think the finish really matters though when it comes to dirt and grime.
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I've used the high-gloss and the semi-flat paints for frames and I like the looks of the semi-flat better, but I think it is somewhat harder to keep clean. I always use spray paints, but I may try the brush-on if you've had luck with it, Mike. It's lots cheaper, I'm sure.Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.
(6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far
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Don, I really do like the brush on. Plus it leaves a thicker coat with just one application.
Have any of you tried POR 15? I know a lot of people use that on 4x4 axles and swear that it doesn't chip. I don't think that's much of a problem with the frames on our machines though since they are protected?
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I'd sand blast it, apply a primer with a spray gun and then a high gloss paint with a spray gun. Thicker is not necessarily better, since you want the bond to the metal and not a "cover" over the metal (example of bad for thick paint, is when you do get a crack or chip.. when you go to clean if with a high pressure washer, the water has more grab at the chip and peels away the thicker paint).
Prep is everything in painting.. the metal has to be clean (degreaser) and the primer should be sanded with a ~400 grit (just a quick light sand over everything making sure you don't go to the metal). The paint coat can be ugly or nice.. doesn't really matter. You can get away with paint bombing, but personally I'd rather use a gun (you can get em cheap >$50).
Cheers
Beeman
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Paint
Hi All,
I just got a roll bar from Mike (was also how I became introduced to the forum, Thanks Again!) and it was in great shape with a little rust. After sanding it down, I used a Rustolieum flat black rust converting/bonding paint. The instructions indicate that it is good as a primer on rusted surfaces. I like the look of it and used it as the finish coat as well.
Since finishing it, it has been kicked around and left in a very moist area without any rust developing, kind of testing the finish. I will be installing it soon, I promise Mike. I even sprayed the inside of the roll bar. It may outlast the T-20!
The paint applies and covers well, it can be easily touched up and it bonds to rust. It seems that this would be a good finish choise for a frame as well. I currently have my frame coated in motorcycle chain lube that has a hard waxy finish that does not attract dirt/dust/mud and displaces water.
Just checking in!
Mario
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I'm going with Imron.
Imron is some tuff stuff. I'd like to powder coat, but you can't touch it up. A little tip from my dirt bike days is to paint it WHITE. I know what your thinkin, but if you have a crack in the frame, weld, etc., when you clean you WILL see it very easy. The dirt and oil will settle there.sigpic Attex, there is no substitute
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I recently saw a Jeep frame painted with Rustoleum brush on hammer tone paint. It looked fantastic and the owner said it had stood up to everything. I could not believe that the hammer tone look could be brushed on, but I tried some and it comes out great. Seems to create a thick clear coat on top of the color. Don't know how its done but it works. Its not perfectly smooth like a normal color finish would be, so it may hold a little more grease and such.
Mike
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i'm with jerbear on this one... anything but black and dark grey.
i went red on my racer just to match everything else, but a light grey is what i would recomend. it helps with finding cracks, and finding dropped stuff in the bottom of the tub. i'm seriously thinking of pulling the freshly painted frame out of the max II i just got and painting it light grey.A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
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I put POR-15 on the frame of my Jeep TJ and covered it with black semi-gloss ChassisCoat three years ago. It definitely bonded well, especially over heavy rust. I touched up a few spots last fall because they were looking 'thin' - there was no sign of abrasion but it looked like rust-colored stains emerging from the paint. All in all I'm happy with the product. The Jeep looks better and will last longer. Winters in the Northeast are tough on steel.
Take care,
Peter
Originally posted by Mike View PostDon, I really do like the brush on. Plus it leaves a thicker coat with just one application.
Have any of you tried POR 15? I know a lot of people use that on 4x4 axles and swear that it doesn't chip. I don't think that's much of a problem with the frames on our machines though since they are protected?
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Went with semi-gloss black but will go high gloss next one I do. Kinda like the light color idea. I know cat yellow shows ANY crack that it is sprayed over.
For prep, used Ospho, works great on rusty metal, has phosphoric acid in it which dissolves the rust and converts it to primerDESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION
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