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  • rdr
    replied
    Originally posted by GREASEMONKEY View Post
    BTW: The grinder is good for big welds, but try a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel for more delicate work. OH, and a good coating of anti-seize on everything before reassembly is good for future teardowns. It keeps rust off & machined surfaces from sticking!
    AMEN anti -seize ever thing .

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  • micmac
    replied
    Whipper,

    I guess he figured once he had it dialed in he wouldnt need any further adjustments! Time to start cuttin'


    Mike

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  • GREASEMONKEY
    replied
    BTW: The grinder is good for big welds, but try a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel for more delicate work. OH, and a good coating of anti-seize on everything before reassembly is good for future teardowns. It keeps rust off & machined surfaces from sticking!

    Leave a comment:


  • rdr
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike View Post
    This is a picture of the outer collar on my Max II axles. Look at how it is held in place I have no more to say right now .......
    mike i have done the samething to my center axel. it kept sliding in and rubbing the body works great . robbie

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  • whipper-ag
    replied
    George. It's the Max IV I bought to make a springer kit. I wasn't gonna start on it till Jan. But I couldn't stand walking by it everyday,so I had to start ripping it apart.

    Whipper

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  • George
    replied
    Whipper,

    Is this in the machine you just picked up for your son?

    My guess is that the drums are shot!

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  • whipper-ag
    replied
    Check this out guys. Why didn't some one tell me I could adjust the bands on a T-20 by welding washers on the back of the U channels. I'm still trying to figure out what the nuts are for behind the adjustment bolts

    Whipper
    Attached Files

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  • Mike
    replied
    Mike, thanks for that link. I will check it out later tonight.

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  • whipper-ag
    replied
    I think C4 explosive will solve your problem.

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  • egoperf
    replied
    Iuse the set screw bearings and they work great. I just dimppled the axle where the set screw goes with a drill about 1/8"

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  • micmac
    replied
    Mike,

    Does your machine have the newer splined axles or the older round bore axles?

    if you have the old ones and are pulling everything out I recommend what I did. It has worked great and bye bye cam lock collars.

    Route 6x6 Discussion Board: Non eccentric set screw bearings


    read the whole thread if you want to see the process but you can skip to the bottom to see my final solution.

    a couple additional items: i removed all the hex-head screws they were not required.

    also I found that the outer collar was tough to reach with an allen wrench to loosen. As it rests under the frame. My solution was to drill a hole in the frame just above and to the side of the axle so I can put the allen wrench down through and loosen the collar.

    with these fixes my axles stay located, the small bearings don't crack because I'm not using the thin walled eccentric ones, and I can remove an axle in about 10 min!

    good luck with the bearing change it can be a bear if stuff is rusted. My recommendation is to loosen the inner stuff first and if you have a problem with the outer assemblies at least you can take the axle out and work on it on the bench. Oh and PB blaster will be your friend!

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  • Mike
    replied
    Beeman, I am going to replace all the bearings and seals while I am in there. And I am a little worried about this axle since I am having more and more problems from it and this doesn't help any.

    The sprocket/tube won't come off the axle, the end of the axle was messed up so bad that it wouldn't slide through the inner bearing without being ground some, and now this.

    Whipper, I hear you. Things just keep pointing that way don't they

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  • whipper-ag
    replied
    Mike

    It's springer time I think.

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  • Beeman
    replied
    Mike, do you need to replace this part or is it just because of the weld that you feel you need to do something? The weld unfortunatly doesn't allow the ability to change things easily, and like others say.. probably an angle grinder or something to take it off.

    The nice things about welds are that if someone welded it in place.... you can probably access it in the same way with a grinder and take it out. On the plus side, if the owner couldn't tighten down the set screw tight enough on the collar, you might be dealing with bad thread on the collar or the axle has issues...

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  • Mike
    replied
    Originally posted by jpswift1 View Post
    Mike, I've run into that on a Max that I rebuilt. I used an electric die grinder and it worked great.
    Jeff, I think I'll do the same...break out the angle grinder and go to town. Hopefully I can grind it on the collar side and not cut into the axle much. We will see.

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