There is a great product out there that you may not have come across. I stumbled across it while working on a sailboat I had awhile back. It's 3m's 5200 marine adhesive/sealant. It's for thru-hull fittings on boats. It's made for "below the waterline". Depending on where you live it can be hard to find. West marine will have it for sure though. It WORKS great.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Sealing your flanges
Collapse
X
-
That 5200 is some great stuff, sticky! I've used it on my boats outdrive before. But the tube I have dried up, been a while since I used it.
When I get the bearings to reassemble my Hustler I was planning on using Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker since I just got a new tube of it for another small project.
-
3M Strip Caulk was recomended by R.I. and when doing Mogman's Max IV we used that. No leaks, thats for sure, and it's super-easy to apply, like a long rope of sealant, no tube, and it's really tacky, a pretty fool-proof gasket. I haven't used the 5200, but I'm going to go find it, if I don't use it on an AATV it'll get used on the boatAttex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
Attex Super Chief - Sold.
Comment
-
I swear by it!!!
I've used many products over the years, and I will swear by 3m 5200. I install fiberglass swimming pools and use it around skimmers, main drains, and returns. After using it on my boat, I started using it at work. The reason I like this product over the others is that it's an adhesive and sealant, it will stick to what ever you put it on, not like caulk. You can rub caulk off with your thumb. This stuff sticks, but not too much if you need to take it off. It wouldn't take some of your tub with it. It will not dry out. It gets pretty hard but stays flexible, and it comes in white, black, and tan. It ain't cheap and dry's up quick after opening the tube but to me it's well worth it.sigpic Attex, there is no substitute
Comment
-
Originally posted by jerbear View PostI've used many products over the years, and I will swear by 3m 5200. I install fiberglass swimming pools and use it around skimmers, main drains, and returns. After using it on my boat, I started using it at work. The reason I like this product over the others is that it's an adhesive and sealant, it will stick to what ever you put it on, not like caulk. You can rub caulk off with your thumb. This stuff sticks, but not too much if you need to take it off. It wouldn't take some of your tub with it. It will not dry out. It gets pretty hard but stays flexible, and it comes in white, black, and tan. It ain't cheap and dry's up quick after opening the tube but to me it's well worth it.
Comment
-
4200
Hi,
I thinkthat using 4200 instead of 5200 would work better. 4200 can be removed but 5200 is hard as heck to remove or disassemble parts, Also t-9 is great to use on chains, and will set up and not sling off, will put a coating on all metal, I have used on Planes, boats, cars and so forth.
Allen
Comment
-
I just wanted to plug 3M strip caulk as a sealant....it is readily available and works great!! Also, there is really no surface prep required before you use it, and removing it if necessary is very easy with solvents. I am going on almost two years with NO leaks coming in through the bearings.Hammers should have warning labels.
Comment
-
#M rope caulk
Originally posted by boncrshr View PostI just wanted to plug 3M strip caulk as a sealant....it is readily available and works great!! Also, there is really no surface prep required before you use it, and removing it if necessary is very easy with solvents. I am going on almost two years with NO leaks coming in through the bearings.
Thanks to Richard Clark, Rutledge, JP Swift. After talking to Richard Clark, and Rut about water leaks I found out some very interesting things. Rutledge suggested I get I needle fitting for the bearings and Richard Clark talked with me about insuring the flanges were sealed. I have been listening very carefully about all the different sealants members use on there machines and finally decided I would try the 3M rope caulk. This stuff is soft and can be placed on the machine and formed however you need it to go. Goes on soft and stays soft so when you need to take it off in the future it comes OFF!!!! Anyway took off my flanges got the needle fitting and put it in my bearings with some good marine green grease. (GOOD STUFF) There are two small pin holes on every bearing. When I put the needle fitting in and started to pump awful black yeack came out the other side. I pumped until I saw green and then entered the other hole and pumped black grease out the other way. I must have geased my bearings twenty times in the last two years and I doubt that very little grease got into those bearings. Bottom line is if you want to grease them properly take off your flanges and use and needle fitting. Next I used the rope caulk everywhere I thought there might be a leak and then put the whole thing back together. I rolled the max a few feet foward and to my surprise it took almost a third less effort to push the machine. I also installed mud flaps using Rutledges great design as a guide. (THEY WORK EXCELLENT!!!!!!) finally I took the machine into my pond without the back seat and the floor pans looking for leaks. Back and forth several times. One tiny pin drip from the middle left axle. I bought my 3m caulk at a local paint supply store for $12.72 for a box and used less than half sealing my flanges.
Comment
Comment