Slight frame twist

[micmac]

I'm working on my Hustler racer frame and I know that there is a slight tweak to it resulting in one corner to be about 1/8 of an inch raised when resting on saw horses. Is this something to be concerned with or should I not worry about it? Should I go through the trouble off attempting to straighten it? If so, what are some suggestions on how to go about it.




Mike

[brushcutter]

I assume that you are certain that the sawhorses are level from side to side and from each to the other in all directions. If so have you tried anchoring the other 3 corners and pushing down on the high spot to see if it flexes enough to touch the sawhorse? If you can make it touch without exerting much force then it will probably find its own "level" once it is returned to the tub and bolted in place. By any chance did you notice anything wrong or out of kilter before you removed it from the tub?

[jerseybigfoot]

1/8" is nothing to worry about. Just check for cracks under the trans mount in the center rail. As you are planning to race the unit you may want to beef up the center axle bearing hole in the frame rail. My Hustler was cracked through on one side. There is room in the tub to add 3/4" square tubing to the bottom of the frame rail. I have some photos of Route 6x6 as to the frame mods.

http://www.route6x6.com/photogallery/images/pg164.jpg

[micmac]

Thanks guys for the info. I can't lay it flat on concrete because the rear chain adjusters stick out below the frame. I did try turning the frame around on the horses and also flipped the horses around but the same corner stays raised. So I'm going on the assumption that it's the frame itself. JB thanks for the link I'll definitely look into your mod.

Mike

[hydromike]

Hey Mike,
JBFs right. 1/8" is nothing to sweat about. I hope to get the 503 frame BACK to within 1/8" after I straighten and beef it up. It's about (gulp) 1 1/2" off on each side in the front.

The landings at Ledges were not kind....

~m

[micmac]

Mike

Ouch! I guess mine is not so bad after all. For my own info and anyone else that might be dealing with the same issue how do you plan on straightening the 503 frame?

Mike

[Mike]

I know you were talking to the other Mike but let me chime in with what I have done in the past. I'm sure there are better methods but it works:

I found a long piece of thick flat stock steel. Something in the 5'-6' range and 3/4" - 1" thick. In your case I would start with one of the main rails on the bottom and c-clamp the flat stock to the part of the frame rail that you thought was the straightest. Either the front or rear of the frame. Then using 5-6 c-clamps work your way forward clamping as you go. This should bring the frame back to where it should be but of course it won't stay this way if you don't do more.

Next take a big hammer and start hitting on the flat stock where you think the frame is bent. Eventually the frame will keep the shape and you can move to the next frame rail. Repeat as needed.

I have used this on my Max II and an old Max IV with great results. I never had to use heat but I'm sure you could if you had to. Maybe someone else will chime in with another method.

[hydromike]

frames...

After I pull the frame out, I need to cut the front frame tube out, straighten the frame (probably in the press, or on a saw horse with a hydraulic jack), weld in a new solid 1" dia. steel bar, and reinforce the front with a 3/16" x 2.5" steel plate across the front. I'm sloooowly working on a writeup documenting the roll cage build, as well as frame straightening, reinforcing. The cage is just about done, but now the whole thing has to come out and get straightened....

The first picture doesn't do the carnage any justice. Like I was telling JP yesterday, you can measure how far it's off with an odometer...

[George]

you can measure how far it's off with an odometer...

lol

[Don]

Almost all the used and abused machines that you find have the classic "U" shape in both directions: side-to-side and front-to-back. On an Attex in particular, it cuts way down on your clearance between the body and the tires.

I made a very primitive frame machine at work that does a great job on the Attex frame, and would probably work on others as well. I'd try to describe it, but probably wouldn't be able to give a good mental picture of the thing, so I'll get a picture of it and post it this week.

[Don]

frame machine

Here's a couple pics of the simple but effective frame straightener. The frame can be held down by the clamps and pushed up in the center with the jack. There's another hole in the green channel further down so the frame can go on the rack lengthwise as well. Most of the time the corners have to be rewelded once the frame is straight.