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  • Remote Control 6x6

    Hey Guys,

    I'm new to the forum (this is my first post) and I'm affraid I don't have much to contribute. Well, maybe a laugh for some of you but anyway ...

    I want to create a remote control 6x6 (actually an 8x8) and I want it to be actually amphibious and TOUGH.

    The problem I am having now is finding seals and bearings that are smaller (would work with the size of tires that go on a pressure washer cart). I really want to create some kind of a housing that utilizes dual seals, then the greasable bearing...

    Thoughts?

    Any help appreciated. Thanks,

    Jeff

  • #2
    Member 6x6 had a hobby shop at one time. He might have some ideas.
    Banned

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Jeff.
      Waterproof Speed Controlls (ESC)s are more common, and no matter how well you think it's sealed, it's a good Idea. If you go the gas route it's the same with servos, and Receivers are easily waterproofed and/or sealed completely, so I'd first state NOT to rely on sealed bearings alone, seals never last forever, and few things are beaten like an R/C vehicle.
      As for bearings, none of the Hobby's "Sealed" bearings will keep water out. The seals only keep lube in and dirt/particles out for the most part. (This includes the sealed Crankshaft bearings for the Nitro engines, they don't seal any better, it's the extremely tight tolerance between the crankshaft and block that creates an "Almost" seal, and the tiny bit of leakage is needed to lubricate the front bearing) Contact a Bearing house with the size you'll want and ask for triple sealed (for food processing equipment) or at least double sealed. Our machines bearings are by no means the smallest you can get them in. They'll be able to provide flanges for any bearings they sell. If you want to get an oil seal, and run that in a housing in front of the shaft you could do that as well, and you can get oil seals through any good bearing house as well, but the housing will be a bit of work. You're best trying to find SOMETHING that uses a shaft of a usable diameter, and is subject to constant immersion so has a housing with a seat for a seal. I don't know off of what. Possibly off some small industrial mixer (Would have to be small) Or off a conveyor line where moisture is constantly present, such as pre-fill washing or bottling? I'm really just thinking out loud, you'll have to hit Google and the phones hard I'm sure. Call the bearing house and let them know exactly what you're doing, maybe they can help, maybe they can't, that's again not something I've tried.
      Good Luck.
      John
      Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
      Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
      Attex Super Chief - Sold.

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm assuming youre gonna use an electric drive ststem instead of gas? that will probably be a lot easier than coming up with a tranny for gas unless you try to copy but enlarge and strengthen the one from a kyosho blizzard. I don't know your machining abilities but this will definately be a project for you. I think I would use about a 1/2" axle, probably aluminum because of weight and it should be plenty strong. then bearings shouldnt be too hard to get. like 6x6 said, call a bearing place and they should be able to get some fairly well sealed bearings. I would use 1 on each side of the body and then maybe 1 more at the end of the axle on the inboard side. try to come up with a housing that goes through the body for the axles to go through that holds the bearings. this will make it a lot easier to add a zerk fitting to grease these areas. then if you use a waterproof grease such as belray's one or a good moly grease, it should keep water out. Your biggest challenge will probably be the chains and sprockets, depending on how you were planing on doing that. maybe, mased on the scale you seem to be talking about, finding some old bikes with fairly good chains and sprockets all same/similar sizes would be the cheapest and easiest solution. with that scale you could also think about a 3/4" axle solid aluminum or tube steel

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        • #5
          do not use a 1/2 axle we put them on a tank like r/c that we built and they bent like a pertzel i would go with wheel chair motors a robotech controller and 3/4 axels for peace of mind but this all depends on your ability to machine parts if ya want pm me and ill shoot ya my phone number i can give you some ideas form the robots i have built
          1996 MAX IV ,KUBOTA DIESEL
          MAX II 30HP Bandolero

          Comment


          • #6
            Hey guys,

            Thanks for all the feedback. That's awesome.

            Basically my plan so far is to have an electrically driven chain and sprocket system. I have all of the RC electronics already. I was thinking I would use a thicker rubbermaid style tub for the "hull". The tires would be pneumatic and roughly the size of larger & wider dolly or pressure washer tires.

            I have never worked closely with metal. I am completely unable to turn metal or operate CnC equipment, or even weld for that matter. That said, I am able to pay people to do that for me.... haha.... I can draft up parts in CAD etc.

            I've been putting the most thought in to the system to support the seals and bearings so I hadn't thought much about the drive train. I was hoping to use something like bicycle sprockets and chain to keep that part simple'r. I must say that I definitely didn't see needing 3/4" shafts. I realize that my machine will end up being much larger than a typical RC vehicle (around the size of an electric wheel chair footprint I guess) but 8 x 3/4" shafts seems excessively strong. That said I will definitely take the advice and plan on that size moving forward. I have no real world experience so I would be a fool not to.

            Does anyone know of a good online bearing/seal house? Especially one where I don't have to order 800 of them.

            I guess I will use two electric wheel chair motors on this beast.

            I really appreciate the thoughts - keep'em coming. No suggestion is a bad one at this point because I'm not off the drawing board!

            Comment


            • #7
              The robot we built bent 5/8 axels and it was much smaller than the footprint of a wheel chair i would only build with 3/4 now
              1996 MAX IV ,KUBOTA DIESEL
              MAX II 30HP Bandolero

              Comment


              • #8
                for an online bearing house, i'd go with motion industries Motion Industries - Keeping Industry in Motion i've done a ton of shopping and haven't found anyone who can beat their prices. i found lower price bearings elsewhere, but got what i paid for... stick with a good brand like timken/ fafnir
                A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by countrycummins99 View Post
                  The robot we built bent 5/8 axels and it was much smaller than the footprint of a wheel chair i would only build with 3/4 now
                  You are talking aluminum right? (Just want to make sure)

                  Anyway point taken, I'll go with 3/4 shafts for sure...

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                  • #10
                    nope the 5/8 axles we bent were TGP which stands for turned ground and polished steel when you dont have suspension the axles take a beating but i havent bent a 3/4 yet on it and trust me ive tried lol
                    1996 MAX IV ,KUBOTA DIESEL
                    MAX II 30HP Bandolero

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      heres my number 570-578-9610 its shawn by the way i can give you quite a bit of insight to your project if ya need
                      1996 MAX IV ,KUBOTA DIESEL
                      MAX II 30HP Bandolero

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mediaone View Post
                        8 x 3/4" shafts seems excessively strong.
                        Yes, when the load is spread evenly, but when you drive over uneven terrain, the stress will be on fewer tires, sometimes only 3 or 4, and when you hit a rut or sharp incline, the front two take a lot of stress, hit a bump and you REALLY stressing one specific axle. Of course what speed you plan on attaining, and how much the machine weighs will be big factors. CountryCummins's machine may have been significantly heavier and/or faster, then again, you're design may be and may warrant stronger axles. The softer the tires you use, the more stress they will relieve from the axles on bumps/ruts etc....
                        Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
                        Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
                        Attex Super Chief - Sold.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          All good advice. Thanks.

                          Maybe you guys will be interested in this:



                          *I have no idea if that one is actually amphibious or not ... doubt it.

                          Also,

                          Do you guys think it is a good idea for me to purchase an actual bearing, bearing flange etc. parts from an ARGO and then try to create something smaller that will work for me?

                          Is there a simpler design off of another 6x6 that will be easier for me to copy and will work just as well for my purposes?

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