I read a post quite some time ago about a forum member with a very rusty frame and axles. He used a water solution of baking soda and water.The end results were amazing!! Does any one on the forum remember where this post is?
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After I posted this, I typed in a different search word and found the post I was looking for.
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The process of electrolysis for rust removal may seem difficult, but there is really nothing to it. If you are in a hurry, then sandblasting is by far the better option. But if you are like me and just have a few minutes here and there at very random intervals, then electrolysis is a nice alternative. I made a real quick video.
Basically, here is what you need:
- Small roll of steel wire
- Small roll of copper wire
- 4 small hose clamps
- A plastic tank with no exposed metal on the inside
- 4 pieces of rebar long enough to stand on end and stick out of the water about 6 inches
- OxyClean mixed into the solution at a consistency of ¾ cup per 10 gallons water
- A wire brush to clean the parts off
- A putty knife to scrape the crud off of the rebar after every 3-4 uses
You can watch the video for more info. I like to keep this unit near my utility tub so that I can wash all the crud off of it afterwards. I let it dry for just a few hours and immediately apply rust converter to the bare metal.
Last edited by simpleton7016; 03-28-2010, 05:50 PM.
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mudbug3,
The baking soda is acting as an electrolyte. You can use lye, salt.... Anything to make the water conduct electricity. You could use well water with no electrolyte. Some things like baking soda and salt will produce harmfull gases. Salt is chorine gas, cant remember what baking soda produced but I recall it was also toxic. If your outdoors you should be fine though.
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arm and hammer laundry soda is reputed to be the safest thing to use. i can only find it online, but stumbled on a site about electrolsys that told how to make it. take baking soda and spread it on a cookie sheet. bake it at 400 for an hour and you have laundry soda. i too am no chemist and have no idea if it really does a thing, but the site i was reading said something about it releasing an atom of something when you bake it?????? i did that and it seems to be working fine. i used mine to strip the frame on my rokon. the more electrodes you can have in the water the better it works. i have 4 in my tank(used lawn mower blades), and it will strip most anything in 24 hours. *NOTE* electrolsys produces hydrogen gas, so no smoking, grinding, and unplug the battery charger BEFORE you unhook one of the battery leadsA well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
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I played around with it a lot outdoors. I had a 5 gallon bucket full of crap and it would bubble a mess of crap after a while. Since the bubbles are not contained in anything you can put the torch to them and holy cow. Crazy stuff. I also made some hydrogen mini bombs. I got a bottle cap and drill a hole in it just big enough to stick 2 wires in it. I had the wire close to each other to be the igniter. Then in the 5 gallon bucket I had the hydrogen cell (a collection of stainless plates running +/-/+/-/+/-). It would bubble the hydroxy. So I took a bottle full of water and had it in the water upside down. The bubble would go in the bottle and the water would escape. Then when all the water is out you have it full of hydroxy so then while under water put the igniter cap on. Run about 30 ft of speaker wire to the cap and hook other end to a cattle prod and ka boom! Dont try this at home kids. Could be very dangerous! But that is why its cool.
Here was my last version of the hydoxy fuel cell. Kind of off topic but same idea.
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You can use this same technology to boost the mileage on your autos. I have a couple of friends who run these systems on their trucks, one of them is now getting 39mpg in an S-10 pick up, he saw a 33% increase in mileage - cool! They use stainless steel for electrodes, becaues it doesn't break down as quickly as copper and other materials.DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION
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here is a link to a pdf on the subject. it warns against using stainless steel for the electrodes. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolysis.pdfA well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
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Originally posted by simpleton7016 View Postalso, if you can find it, pure graphite is supposed to be the best electrode. I did a small search for it once and could not find a reasonably priced supplier.2008 MAX-IV 500T 30hp Bandolero
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Originally posted by racerone3 View Posthere is a link to a pdf on the subject. it warns against using stainless steel for the electrodes. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolysis.pdf, now you got me wondering what happens to this stuff when it is burned in the combustion chamber of an engine?
Did a search on Chromiumvi - scary, real scary!DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION
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it's a really easy process and works well, but if you use the wrong stuff for electrodes or electrolyte you can get some scary results. polarity is also crucial... get it wrong and you will destroy your part and clean your consumable electrodes. i've been using my tank sense i got laid off and don't have access to a sandblaster... does just as well for rust removal, just takes a little longer. my sons mini 6x6 got striped tonight and the frame is bubbling away in the tank right now.A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
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