ABS Plastic repair

[yankedriver]

I read the thread on ABS repair and decided to try it, I first melted together the large cracks with a soldering iron so I didn't have to hold them as the repair cured, then I ground up some ABS pipe on a bench grinder and dumped it into some acetone, it worked well but when I used it right away I found it lumpy. What I then did was slice the 1 1/2" pipe into 1/4'' rings with a sawzall, stuffed as many as I could into a large mason jar, filled it about halfway with acetone put the lid on tight, and left it for a couple of days(I don't know how long it took; I was gone away) it melted down into a Mayonnaise type consistency which was perfect for spreading onto the body with a putty knife. on the cracks I put fiberglass mesh tape on it first. It worked perfect for building up the broken pieces that were missing as well. I found that once you apply it you have to walk away and forget about it though, I kept checking it, not believing it was going to harden, but the next day it was as if it was an original part of the plastic (although black) I tried several other types of material as well but the ABS pipe works the best, and as it hardens it smoothes out perfectly. Mb

[LarryW]

I have played with this for some years know but it doesnt ever quit get the strength as original. I had tried applying thick in the past. Thought it was good. After some use I get the cracks back. I am currently trying thinner multiple layers. I know the hard part is getting the bubbles to come out before it hardens. Even if it looks good, when you apply acetone, it will melt into it and you will see the bubbles. It dont show at first because the outer skin releases the bubbles and hardens first, trapping the inner bubbles. That is why my current plan is multiple thin layers. So far so good but still get some bubbles. I have only been messing with it time to time for like 3 months now on the new theory of thin layers, lol. (been busy) Basically the bubbles creates a weakness. Thanks for your write up on it. Post any reports on it after time and we will see how it goes. I will do the same.

[soutthpaw]

i will be doing a lot of HDPE repair on my machines this winter, I have a couple of good heat guns, a mini 5 airless welder and the good HF air welder. I just ordered a Lb of HDPE welding rod from local plastic store, so will have plenty to keep me busy this winter... ABS is easier as HDPE is maid specifically to be chemically resistant and is inert to most adhesives etc... have u tried plastic welding with ABS rod???

[6X6]

My Attex Wolf was cracked longways, front to back, down the left chain tunnel. I did the ABS Acetone goop repair, not sure how many layers but is was a bunch, and it has held for over 2 years despite some good abuse in my backyard "Putnam Pit", blasting across a frozen lake (knock your eyes out of their sockets rough) and plowing through Busco, even though I did bend and axle there.

I'm quite sure it's not as strong as original, but if you avoid bubbles, (I had read in thin layers, what Larry's doing) it's very strong. I did also hear that ABS doesn't weld well, and is quite weak if heated to melting again and re-solidified. Not sure, never tried though.

[yankedriver]

The first thing I tried was slicing the abs pipe lengthwise into "rod like" strips and using them with a soldering iron and melting them in. it looked like hell, and when you flex the part after it cooled it didn't take much to break it.

[yankedriver]

I did notice the bubbles when I used it right away after mixing it, but the stuff I left in a jar for a couple of days came out perfect, no bubbles.

[JRP3]

ABS doesn't seem to respond to heat welding as well as poly.

[jyeames]

For the best ABS repairs, try a commercial adhesive system called PVC TrimWelder Fast Cure (PVC TrimWelder - Home) it works great with ABS, aluminum and steel too! A 2 part cartridge includes mixer tips! There's a caulking gun adapter on the web site for short money if that's the way you want to go, or just squirt it out, mix it by hand and apply. Clean the ABS first with alcohol or acetone. You have about 4 to 5 minutes to apply it, then let it sit for a couple of hours for about 85% stremgth. 100% takes overnight! It will not work on poly though!

Works Great

[JRP3]

Are you sure it will work with ABS? They don't have the same chemical makeup and they don't mention ABS on the website.

[6X6]

Hmmm, I'll have to check that out. Good to see you here again JRP! I've seen you've got some new U-tube videos that I've gotta watch

[JRP3]

Hmmm, I'll have to check that out. Good to see you here again JRP! I've seen you've got some new U-tube videos that I've gotta watch

Yeah I'm still around, lurking. I think the Attex videos are just slightly clearer versions of the originals so you might be disapointed. Plus some of my electric Fiero. Youtube improved their conversion process so newer uploads of the old videos are clearer. I'm involved in a complete teardown to fix the body of the Attex, I'm leaning towards complete sheathing with epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth since the ABS is really weak at this point.

[6X6]

Still gotta watch them. It is cool to see an almost silent Attex.
Post up pictures if you do go that route, I'm curious to see how it works, though I'm probably going to do an HDPE skidplate like H-Mike when time and funds allow. (Which right now looks like it'll be sometime around never. )

[JRP3]

I'm planning an HDPE skid plate as well, over the epoxy and glass. The plan is to strip it, flip it, sand the ABS with some 36 grit to give it some "tooth", then cloth, 8 ounce I think, and epoxy resin. Then heat form the HDPE skid plate over that.

[lewis]

IPS Weld-On #2354 Plastic Solvent ABS, Styrene Adhesive Glue

Here is a good site for a ABS adhesive. I use this but in the thicker version to give more adjusting time. You can back plate broken areas with scrape ABS, glue into place and it will not come apart again, so make sure it is where you want it. You and also use this like a bondo material and fill gouges and re-sand after dried. You can even heat the ABS reshape it to the corner or around bolt holes and glue into place and have stronger corners. I did a lot of work with this adhesive when i was building the Carolina Orange Crush. The trick is to get the bonding surface clean so you will have to do some sanding to get all the oxidation off of the two bonding surfaces. Hope this helps and good lock

[azz7772]

one thing I learned if you have cracks drill a small hole right at the end of each side of the crack like a 1/8 inch. This will keep the crack from spreading further then do your repair work.
also a product called lexel will glue abs as well