8x8 axle spacing

[hydromike]

you're absolutely right, Roger.

I wonder if it would be as easy as just stepping the frame up in the end two axles by either making the frame stepped, or just moving the bearings up a 1/2" or so. I don't know how much room there is to play on the frame. I need to actually GET a frame, darnit. Time to swing down to RI. Finding the whole 20 minutes in a work day to make the trip AAAAalll the way down there is a hassle.

(insert Homer Simpson voice) Mmmmmmm..... extended RPMMMMMmmmm raaaaaaaange.....

~m

[Mike]

See? This is why I pose things to other people. I didn't even think about extending it backward. This would make substantially more sense. The machine would end up being a mid-engine machine with room for storage behind/over the T-20. It'd look like a Mudd Ox, in a way. Which, is awesome.

That idea was all yours. I actually had something a little bit different pictured. Still extend the frame backwards and leave the T20 where it is, but remove that high engine stand and mount the engine on the new addition to the frame, right behind the T20. That way the motor is at the very back of the machine as low as possible and not 12" above the T20 like the stock location. Then start building your rear seat over top of the T20 where the old engine stand used to be.

Your muddox style Max would keep the weight centered more but the rear engine would lower your center of gravity substantially.

I think you might get into trouble with the single speed t20, or burn up belts, if you get in some serious clay/tight spots. A small t20 sprocket and an engine with extended rpm range might be an idea.

Agreed.

[LarryW]

I really dont have much to add here but thought I would say, EYE (Bridget eye) am watching this thread! Great Ideas!!! Looking forward to what comes of it!

[Mike]

I tried scaling some different motors to see what fit if you were to extend the frame to the rear. It didn't work out as well as I planned but it sure looks cool with a chopped cage.

max VI.jpg

[smog]

I tried scaling some different motors to see what fit if you were to extend the frame to the rear. It didn't work out as well as I planned but it sure looks cool with a chopped cage.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5920[/ATTACH]

you need to get a "school bus yellow" top body for this one

[Don]

I think you might get into trouble with the single speed t20, or burn up belts, if you get in some serious clay/tight spots. A small t20 sprocket and an engine with extended rpm range might be an idea.

Gus had a Max IV with a three speed tractor transmission hooked up between the engine and the T20. I'm pretty sure the CVT clutch was on the tractor trans and then chain to the T20 input, but I'm not sure that's right- Gus should be able to let you know the details. That machine was a real crawler in low gear and something like that may be what you need.

[hydromike]

It didn't work out as well as I planned but it sure looks cool with a chopped cage.

Now THAT is what I'm talking about! Makes my effort at cutting/pasting look a little silly. I like the blue, too! Now I'm almost compelled to do it. One of my tops is the aquamarine-color, and the other is the tan, so I don't really know which way to go. Both are round headlight machines. If I could wrestle two blem tops away from RI, I could choose any color! Weee!

(I'm totally stealing that picture and throwing it on my inspiration wall....)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5920[/ATTACH]

Gus had a Max IV with a three speed tractor transmission hooked up between the engine and the T20.

I remeber this machine from Copper Ridge! It was well thought out as I remember. I wonder what sort of transmission it used. It would certainly be a huge improvement, since there are plenty of times that a low (medium? high?) range would come in quite handy. I'll PM Gus to see if he has any pictures.

Lots of stuff to think about. I'll bring the lowers back from the remote storage facility ASAP. I have to find time in the work day to bug RI, too....

~m

[6X6]

OK, first of all, this looks like quite the cool project. I actually thought you were thinking of MAKING an 8x8 Attex (Since you were looking for damaged Attex Bodies) to show it can be done for less than the 4K people think a beat trainer is worth. But this would be great. A T-20 8x8 with a lighter nose for easier water exit. Even if the rear sitting lower compromises a little water speed it'll be nicely balanced, hope this project happens.

[hydromike]

I WANT to do a Home Grown Attex 8x8, and that was the motivation for the original parts request but I discovered that measurements dictate that a true clone utilizing the same dimensions has to use three uppers and three lowers. That requires two seams on the upper and two on the lower. I already know what it takes to reinforce an ABS machine with several seams, and I'd like to do something different right now.

I came across the other Max IV body this past weekend, and it wasn't until the drive home from the Homestead and dropping the body off that I slammed on the brakes and let out a

DER!

I didn't even think about it until I was thinking about all of the bodies I've accumulated. I'd rather tackle a MaxVIII project than a civilian issue Attex 8 right now, but I don't think it's out of the realm of possibility for someone on the board to accomplish.

Like I've said.... this is STILL in the very preliminary "think it through" stages. I don't have a frame(s) yet, no engine, no transmission, no tires/wheels, and I need to find another upper body that's the same color as at least ONE of the uppers that I ahve.no

I sure as heck want to give it a shot, though.

~m

[6X6]

. I don't have a frame(s) yet, no engine, no transmission, no tires/wheels, and I need to find another upper body that's the same color as at least ONE of the uppers that I ahve.no

I sure as heck want to give it a shot, though.

~m

I'd have thought you'd have a "Few" engines kicking around and a spare tranny or two also.
I can see how the upper body wouldn't match up when cut to add an axle, no even level area long enough to add an axle length, I guess you would have to cut the short straight side out of a third upper, but the lower too? I guess I'll have to go look to see the issue.

[hydromike]

Ha! I have about 10 engines laying around, not one of which is suited to such a project, and only about half of which run in the first place. None of the transmissions are appropriate, either. That's all racin' stuff. I've just truely broken into the big 4 stroke utility stuff over the past couple years. I'm new to this!

I have 75% of a T-20 sitting in a bucket. Everytime I get a transmission, I throw it in a machine and try to complete the project. The last one I got is in Scarface, and that project is moving along slowly until the dude mails me my Vanguard.... waiting...

waiting...
waiting...

You're right, though. You need about 5" from the last body to get the little bit of the "straight side". Certainly not impossible, but everytime I come across a potential body for an Attex 8 project, it's too "saveable" to cut up, in my opinion. Other folks are stronger with cutting stuff up. They're still cranking out Max IVs, so I'll hack away at them with glee. The shiney vintage yellow stuff is harder to slice for me. I'm weak.

~m

[liflod]

I have a RIM upper that would cut up real nice. You can get it when you get the other bodies in the graveyard.

[hydromike]

!!!! Wow, that'd be great! SOLD! That's blend quite well with the existing tan upper I have, and I could have an 8x8 RIM! Awesome? Yes.

What part of the RIM upper is "bad"? front/rear/all?

I need to make time to get down to Minangaheela, or wherever Clan Dolfi is.... "Pittsburgh" is such a lie.

~m

[liflod]

Overall its not that bad. One cut hole in the rear for a "custom" exhaust. The front is in pretty good shape. It is too nice to call junk, but perfect for your application.

[Roger S]

Waiting on that vanguard that I "helped" you get? That Cromwell guys seems popular around heymow.. is he staying in touch with you?