1 1/4 Splined axle upgrade

[smog]

They are used axles from machines that he is updating to the new HDI bearing setup.

funny, I had the 2 types of argo axles in my hands and the only different I could remember of was the wheel flange being thicker on the HDI... what I'm sure is that we made the HDI bearing conversion using the original pre-HDI axles... as on RockDoctor's video

[racerone3]

funny, I had the 2 types of argo axles in my hands and the only different I could remember of was the wheel flange being thicker on the HDI... what I'm sure is that we made the HDI bearing conversion using the original pre-HDI axles... as on RockDoctor's video

These were commercially owned machines. All of these axles have the typical seal grooves in them. I suspect the company's that owned them requested new parts. (Sadly) I don't own an Argo, nor am I really up on the differences between the parts for the HDI upgrade

[LarryW]

Looks good Race! Nice work! Wide looks more aggressive or cool but just seems weaker looking in my eyes. You have the stronger axles but it would put more stress on the inner frame rails too. With stiffer axles Im not sure what it would do to the frame. I think the frames a weak point in the trainers. I'm not sure, you might not have problems at all. I'm just saying might be something to keep in mind.

[North Country Tough]

funny, I had the 2 types of argo axles in my hands and the only different I could remember of was the wheel flange being thicker on the HDI... what I'm sure is that we made the HDI bearing conversion using the original pre-HDI axles... as on RockDoctor's video

Iam pretty sure thats the only difference,I just ordered a upgrade to hdi and getting axles too,the reason for the flange change is durability there has been issues with flange breaking especially with rubber track use under some circumstances,so I figured in for a penny in for a pound if I tear into it do it all the way and bullet proof them,that said Obsessed is putting the finishing touch,s on his track tuners and this will put a end to drive line windup so prevalent to rubber track system.N.C.T

[Mike]

funny, I had the 2 types of argo axles in my hands and the only different I could remember of was the wheel flange being thicker on the HDI... what I'm sure is that we made the HDI bearing conversion using the original pre-HDI axles... as on RockDoctor's video

I think the other difference is that the flat area machined on the axles for the outer bearing set screw is in a slightly different place. If you use the older style axles you just have to extend the existing flat towards the hub a little.

[North Country Tough]

I think the other difference is that the flat area machined on the axles for the outer bearing set screw is in a slightly different place. If you use the older style axles you just have to extend the existing flat towards the hub a little.

Thanks Mike,you did the change over tell me this there is no longer outer hull seal assembly's and no O ring inside the bearing to seal to the axle,I asked about the use of silicone at the bearing and was told no,seems odd to me I use this machine a great deal in water,I have not got the kit yet and this answer may be in there whats your experience?N.C.T

[Mike]

You can use silicone between the axle and inner race of the bearing if you like but the tolerances are so tight that it's not necessary.

[racerone3]

Finished the upgrade and all the little detail work I wanted to do on the tank trainer about a week ago. I still haven't taken it for a drive, but hunting season ended today so hopefully I will get to go play in the woods soon.

Today I launched into the Wild Wolf. I am going to need to move the inner bearings out by about 2 inches. tomorrow I will dig through the scrap bin at work and try to figure out some sort of spacer to mount them on. sadly, this won't work on the LR and LC axles as they have to be run all the way in for sprocket alignment. On those axles, I will have to run 2 inches of wheel spacer. I will also have to move the LF chain adjuster inboard (so as to not have to lengthen splines).

With all the fabrication that I need to do to the frame, I decided that the best course of action would be to gut the machine. Currently the frame is out and the tub is flipped upside down so I can form up the skid plate, and fix some major damage to the the under side. Hopefully in a week or 2 she will be going back together.

[racerone3]

Last weekend I finished up the skid plate and got it installed.

Several late nights this week, and the Wolf is coming together quite nicely. Thursday night I finished up all the fabrication work, and mocked up all the axles to make sure the plan would work. All the right side, and the left front inner bearings got spaced out. Also had to repair/ beef up the front cross member and T-20 mounting.

Frame went to work with me yesterday and got painted. It's nice having access to a paint booth again. Had I done this one in the driveway, the paint would have frozen before it dried

Last night the frame went back into the tub. Body had to be redrilled for the larger outer bearings. In about 2 hours work, I had all the axles installed, engine and trans back in the machine, and everything but the exhaust hooked up.

2 weeks into this project and I can finally start working on the AXLE UPGRADE that it started out to be. I'm still waiting for a few of the splined hubs that were back ordered. I have enough to do the front and rear axles. hopefully this weekend I can get them done and lock those axles in place. at least then I can roll the machine outside till the parts come in, freeing up room to start the process on the PimpFoot

[racerone3]

2 months later and I'm finally making some progress. January was wasted waiting for splined hubs (finally caved and got 4 of the more expensive ones that MicMac posted), February was so busy at work that I hardly stepped into my shop.

Thursday night I got all the sprockets in place, lined up and locked down... also ran new chains. Last night was spent working on the wheel spacers for the left rear and center axles. Tires are back on the machine and she is on the ground! still have a few details to take care of inside the tub, and I will probably have to modify the floor pan for clearance on the left front chain adjuster. A few hours today and she should be buttoned up mechanically. then I will need to put some fresh paint on the cage, and shine the body up (again!!!). for some reason this machine oxidizes really easily.

[fmints]

Great work Race, great work!!