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Custom Steel Chassis Hustler
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Updated wheel assembly that uses two lighter shocks - final
I think this would be a good lower cost solution for a 980 tub springer conversion.
Will verify dimensions for anyone interested.Attached FilesLast edited by Mike; 01-06-2013, 09:54 PM. Reason: merged three consecutive posts. You can edit your original post.
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A shot of the suspension mounting plate.Attached Files
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We chose the 2000 Pontiac Grand Am cv shaft setup for the Hustler because they will bolt right up to the Hustler wheels. The plan is to remove the inner cv joint and weld on a u-joint, then a straight shaft coming out of the tub just an inch or so to connect to the other side of the u-joint. This shaft will hold the sprocket inside the tub, just like the stock axles.Originally posted by 2gnospam View PostThat was my thoughts on using a stock cv setup. There are a lot to choose from. How are you going to connect it to the shaft inside the tub? That was the part I was trying to figure out. How do we get sprockets and inside axles that will mate?
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Complete unit finalized. Time to build.Attached Files
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That was my thoughts on using a stock cv setup. There are a lot to choose from. How are you going to connect it to the shaft inside the tub? That was the part I was trying to figure out. How do we get sprockets and inside axles that will mate?
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I like your new design. Looks like it will work well, I like that it will have adjustable camber too. That is a good price on the cv/hub setup too, not much more than junkyard prices, I will probably be getting the rest of mine through that guy as well.Originally posted by shawngray66 View PostKunzmm
Thanks for the help. Decided to go CV due to this Front GM Chevy Driver Side CV Axle Half Shaft Complete Hub Bearing Assembly | eBay. Complete CV shaft and hub for $66 ea.
Look this over. I have run some stress calcs on it and it looks pretty good. Seems to function well thru the simulations.
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Kunzmm
Got the quote back from the plasma guy. The quote was less than $1k including the steel to precision plasma cut all my metal pieces for my build including all the panels, tabs, lugs, and gussets, etc...less than new tubs. I figure another $1K for the suspension hardware and misc.
Going with a new Robin Subaru 27hp EFI. Found one for $1700. Should push it well and efficiently. My model tells me the unit will way a little over 1000 lbs not including the carriage, motor, and transmission. I struggled a bit with using aluminum or 14ga steel for weight considerations. Dont plan for this to be a floater so no biggy on the weight.
thx again
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Kunzmm
Thanks for the help. Decided to go CV due to this Front GM Chevy Driver Side CV Axle Half Shaft Complete Hub Bearing Assembly | eBay. Complete CV shaft and hub for $66 ea.
Look this over. I have run some stress calcs on it and it looks pretty good. Seems to function well thru the simulations.Attached Files
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One more thing that I thought of (and I realize that you are still in design phase), keep in mind the depth of the wheels. Your knuckles, plus the thickness of your wheel bearing/ hub will have to be roughly 3 3/4"- 4" deep before the mounting points, due to the wheels being 8" wide, and only 7" or so clearance inside the diameter of the rim.
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I would strengthen the design by using the 2bolt bottom half of the carrier on the top half also. Making the top and bottom the same. Then take supports back down to the "A" arm, preferably all the way back to the pivot at the tub. Raise the arm pivots to axle height, and space out to match the "U"joint, so pivots allign.
Then to ease the shock angle, relocate it to the bottom "A"arm
As your design is now, it will transfer wheel up/down force to the "U"joint. Your axle will become a lever, and stress, possibly break "U"joints.
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The walking beam/trailing arm suspension is a great concept. it would keep the width of the machine to a minimum vs a-arm setups. My only problem with it is that there would be more chains on the machine, and I am trying to eliminate chains from the design.
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I think this is a good start, the only problem I see with this design is that without an upper a-arm, the weight of the machine will compress the shock and tip the top of the tire in toward the tub. Either add an upper a-arm, or make the knuckle solid to the lower a-arm. Making a solid knuckle will make the camber of the wheel change throughout the suspension travel, but that shouldn't be a real problem, I have had 4 wheelers with the solid design, and they work fine.Originally posted by shawngray66 View PostKunzmm
Here are the photos of the rough design for the GA CV setup.
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Kunzmm
Here are the photos of the rough design for the GA CV setup.
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