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Bringing Moby back to life...hopefully

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  • #16
    Originally posted by fesser View Post
    Well, I think the honymoon is over. Sprayed PB Blaster on every fastener I could find including the lug nuts and hub area. Did it every day for over a week. Impact wrench had to work to get the lug nuts off. Can't budge the wheels at all. Tried beating the rim with a hammer, heating the center of the wheel with a torch and using every odd kind of puller I could find. They are still on there. Removed the muffler cover. TYhat only required snapping two out of three fasteners. I know I am never going to get the sprockets to move on the axles based on everything else I've encountered. Are all the sprockets still available anywhere? I am sure I am going to have to cut some of them. Ugh.
    Mine were rusted and stuck on hubs as well, PB Blaster soaked it for a day the tool the sledge to it, hit in 4 spots around each rim tool about 3-4 times per rim but they came off. Key word is BFH

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    • #17
      Thanks again for the wisdom guys. Going to get a bigger hammer today.

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      • #18
        Hey Fes';

        If the wheels are really giving you a hard time coming off the wheel flanges, get a long 2x4 and try to knock the rim off from the other side of the machine. Some rims have holes that are drilled exactly the same size as the wheel studs, and that can be a real sticking point. The Hustler sprocket tubes are pretty tough, so don't be afraid to knock them around a bit after you get the axle bolts out. Make sure the locking collars are completely loosened on the outer bearings and make sure the set screws are out on the inners. Given enough time and beating around, they'll come off one way or another. I have a big slide hammer that bolts to the wheel hub, which helps focus the force on some real ornery parts.
        sigpic

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        • #19
          Originally posted by hydromike View Post
          Hey Fes';

          If the wheels are really giving you a hard time coming off the wheel flanges, get a long 2x4 and try to knock the rim off from the other side of the machine. Some rims have holes that are drilled exactly the same size as the wheel studs, and that can be a real sticking point. The Hustler sprocket tubes are pretty tough, so don't be afraid to knock them around a bit after you get the axle bolts out. Make sure the locking collars are completely loosened on the outer bearings and make sure the set screws are out on the inners. Given enough time and beating around, they'll come off one way or another. I have a big slide hammer that bolts to the wheel hub, which helps focus the force on some real ornery parts.
          A slide hammer is a great tool. When I replaced my argo bearings I had a few that would not budge. I found a slide hammer kit and bought it. Made quick work of the axles. If you are restoring or fixing an old used machine, it is a must have tool.

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          • #20
            Just pay attention when using BFH's and other WMD's on these machines. When trying to break something loose and it's not budging,something is absorbing all that energy. Patience and penetrating oil are the two most useful tools at this stage of the game.

            Joe.
            sigpic

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            • #21
              Quick update. Four of the wheels came off damage free and fairly easily. One is still on and is intact, for now at least. One is destroyed and so is its tire. The destroyed one had a portion of the inner lip rusted completely through so I figured it needed replacing anyway. I ruined the tire trying to break the bead off the rim. On a weird note, the two stuck rims are mounted over some sort of aluminum spacer. The ones that came off were not. I guess the different metals in contact with each other are part of the reason they are being especially difficult. I tried different pullers I have here and couldn't really get any to work. My problem is the only place I can find to pull is on the inside of the hub opening and the lip I have to hang the puller edges on is too small and easily bent. With the wheels off I can see that at least some of my flanges look ruined. The axle is just flopping around on at least two holes. The shopping list grows...wheels, tires, chain, flanges, bearings...

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              • #22
                Cut one wheel into little pieces and still had to split what was left to get it to slide off the spacer. The rusting reaction between the wheel, spacer, and axle flange was almost like cast iron. After I saw what I was dealing with I tried working the last wheel differently. No progress. I think I am going to cut that wheel up too. I have no idea what the spacers were there for but they have sure screwed up my progress. Also noted that the axles are very rusty, to the point where they have very deep pitting. I am thinking that I will have to replace them for fear that the rusting will have made them somewhat brittle. Oh well.

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                • #23
                  After beating the snot out of the remaining wheel I have given up hope that it will ever separate from the aluminum spacer. This is the center wheel on the left (driver's) side. Plan B was to remove the whole axle and see what I could do when it wasn't attached to the tub. I got the outer flange off (two out of three bolts snapped). The outer bearing disentegrated so the outer end of the axle is now flopping around in the hole in the tub. On the inboard side I found a little collar on the axle by the inner bearing. I removed a set screw from the collar but the axle will not pull out. I honestly don't know why. I assume the collar needs to come off the axle end but it won't. I smacked it with every tool I could fit in there to no avail. I am about ready to start cutting up parts again. This thing is a real rust bucket. Any ideas?

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                  • #24
                    The inner collar on the axle attached to the bearing is an eccentric locking collar. Hit it counter clock wise and it might come loose. Get a chisel in the small hole on the collar and hit the chisel with a hammer. It might come loose. If not, cut the inner bearing and locking collar if you can get a die grinder in there.
                    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
                    sigpic

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                    • #25
                      Thanks. How far should it rotate before unlocking typically?

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                      • #26
                        It's probably a quarter turn, but once you get movement they tend easy come off. I have had po's lock the color the wrong way so it doesn't hurt to try hitting it the other direction if you are making no progress. Also, make sure you take the set screw all the way out and verify that there is not another one underneath it. Sometimes the top one is just acting as a locknut for the bottom one.
                        l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

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                        • #27
                          This is what she looks like now (see classifieds).
                          Attached Files

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