My "new" Hustler

[Brentd27]

The label says 960-hk, and no, that's not a typo, unless there was a mistake in the original stamp.

[Mike]

I merged the two threads just to keep from duplicating questions/answers. For the bearings, I would install them correctly. Will they work that way? Sure. Will they last that way? I don't know. It seems like the ears and/or bolts may break off more easily when they are mounted that way and it may not keep the axles true either.

Do you know how long it's been like that?

[dirtdobber]

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Here's is how the inner bearings are mounted on my 950. Don't know if yours is the same. Note that mine carries the lightweight 2 piece flange and yours has the heavier cast flange. The flange ears need to be tight against the frame.

The bearing position impacts the axle position which could impact chain alignment unless your sprockets are spliced and adjustable.

[dirtdobber]

Splined not spliced.

[Brentd27]

I merged the two threads just to keep from duplicating questions/answers. For the bearings, I would install them correctly. Will they work that way? Sure. Will they last that way? I don't know. It seems like the ears and/or bolts may break off more easily when they are mounted that way and it may not keep the axles true either.

Do you know how long it's been like that?

This is the machine previously owned by garrett1308. Looks like he did the bearing swap back in January sometime. I didn't notice they were in there "backwards" until I started taking a deeper look into the machine once I got it to my shop. In all honesty I was deeply hoping someone would say "No, that's how they're supposed to be for REASONS" so I wouldn't have to take the whole dang thing apart and put them in correctly. I pretty much knew the answer already, though. I guess this gives me a reason to pull the whole frame out of the machine and inspect it.

My family has always said the first thing I do with anything I buy is completely apart and try to make it better. Been that way since I was old enough to hold a screwdriver.

[SeanD]

completely apart and try to make it better.

You mean there are OTHER WAYS???!?!! Haaaahaha.

[Brentd27]

Finally got the transmission out and the driven clutch off, but I'm having trouble identifying it. It has the number 703219-1 stamped in the "rear" edge (side facing transmission). My internet searching says that may indicate that it's a Salsbury 850, but the shield around the spring is unusual. Looking down into the spring area, I can see that the spring has some remnants of yellow paint on it in quite a few places, so it was likely a yellow spring. I didn't think to measure the outer diameter of the outside face, but it will just barely slip into a standard 5-gallon paint bucket.

I removed the snapring/circlip from the rear of the clutch, but I have still not been able to get it apart. There' got to be something else holding it together besides rust.

So, Questions:
Questions:
What brand/model is this clutch?
Is it set up for 2-stroke or 4-stroke?
How do I take it apart?
Would it be appropriate to mate this with a Comet 780 drive, and if so, what spring do I need?

Pics:

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[ARGOJIM]

I'm surprised no one has replied yet.
That is currently a loaded gun with the hammer back and no safety. The only thing holding that on is rust and a little spring twist pressure, please get a bolt , nut, and some washers threw there.

Good thing is the spring is wore so not as much pressure, I'm no expert but my older clutch had the same issue so I twisted the face about an inch and clamped it so I could press in the cam? And remove the rust keeping the cam? In place, then it would rise.

Read some clutch threads in the trans. Section.

[Brentd27]

I'm surprised no one has replied yet.
That is currently a loaded gun with the hammer back and no safety. The only thing holding that on is rust and a little spring twist pressure, please get a bolt , nut, and some washers threw there.

Good thing is the spring is wore so not as much pressure, I'm no expert but my older clutch had the same issue so I twisted the face about an inch and clamped it so I could press in the cam? And remove the rust keeping the cam? In place, then it would rise.

Read some clutch threads in the trans. Section.

Well hell. I was afraid that might be the case. I guess it's a good thing it's not nearby because the last thing I did was soak it down with PB Blaster before I left turned off the workshop lights and locked the door. Workshop is about an hour and a half away and won't be there again until this weekend. That spring still has a lot of tension on it, but I tried banging it apart and it wouldn't budge. The two halves rotate easy enough relative to each other, but it's got a lot of tension on it. Hopefully it does't break anything if it grenades. Also glad it didn't grenade in the back seat of my car on the trip to the workshop Sunday evening. Yes, I hauled it with the clip off. DOH!

[Dan67]

If you look yer closely to the first picture I see what looks like a slip ring that is currently holding it together. Get a one foot long piece of 3/4" all-thread rod and nuts on either end to keep it from grenading. Makes it easier to work on and you can mount it onto a work bench vice. And yes that spring is serious pressure. Member russriders helped install a newer red spring in my hustler 980.

[Brentd27]

If you look yer closely to the first picture I see what looks like a slip ring that is currently holding it together. Get a one foot long piece of 3/4" all-thread rod and nuts on either end to keep it from grenading. Makes it easier to work on and you can mount it onto a work bench vice. And yes that spring is serious pressure. Member russriders helped install a newer red spring in my hustler 980.

If you're talking about the notch circled in red in the pic below, It's not a slip ring. It's just a square notch in the metal. It's open toward the central shaft, but closed on the outer edge. It almost looks like a keyway. It's almost like the movable part has to be rotated to come apart.

notch.jpg

[Brentd27]

So, another question: I have to get a new primary clutch anyway, should I clean up this secondary, change the spring and maybe buttons and use it, or should I buy a new secondary as well and have a matched pair, considering I've got a predator 22hp to drop in?

[dirtdobber]

I would clean it up and see how it runs before I bought a new one. Take it on apart and make sure all the mating surfaces are clean and will move, and then give it a try.

If that clutch is designed similarly as the Comet driven clutches, put the 12 inches of threaded rod through with a nut and washer on each end. That notch circled in red is likely a keyway. Apply some heat to the hub (the part you circled in red) and it should come apart. Aluminum has a much higher expansion coefficient than iron, so it shouldn't take a whole bunch of heat. You may have to bump it to get it to move, but remember the spring has it under pressure. The 12 inches of threaded rod is to allow you to loosen the nuts and expand the spring until its relaxed. You'll appreciate it more when reassembling it. Also, I'm not sure if the heat will melt any plastic parts on that clutch.

[Brentd27]

Well, I still haven't been able to get the clutch apart. No idea what I'm doing wrong. It won't pry apart, it won't bang apart, and the back part won't rotate relative to the shaft. The movable plate is all that will rotate. Both plates have a good coating of rust on them. I don't know if this thing is going to be usable or not.

[ARGOJIM]

Did you try to twist the faces, lock them, and then tap the stuck part down to remove the key and sand the end of the shaft?