Argo axles in a Hustler

[brushcutter]

I have heard that it is possible to modify Argo axles so that they can be used in a Hustler.Does anyone know anything about this?Has anyone tried it?And now for the big question:Is it expensive?

[micmac]

Brushcutter,

The Argos use a 62mm O.D. bearing for a 1.25 inch axle. This is just a bit larger than the stock bearings on the Hustler. So the bearing holes on the frame rails would need to be widened a bit (maybe a machist in the group could come up with a way to do this). The good news is the flanges for both bearings use the same bolt pattern so that wouldn't need to change. Then you could use the argo axles. I'm not sure on the inner bearings but that would be an easy fix. If you are planning this I'd do the full monty and get splined axles and sprockets.

[jpswift1]

As far as the inner Hustler bearings go to accomidate the Argo axles, you would just have to have the ends of the Argo axles machined down to around 1" I believe. Of course, measure it up first to make sure.

[cclingma]

When you guys replace your axles with solid stock, do you cut the old hub/flange off the original axle and weld it to the new or replace everything? I'm considering axle and sprocket replacement/upgrade as well even though I fear it might be alittle deaper into the penny bank than I should really go. Thanks!

[Bw6]

Argo Axles

When I rebuilt my Max II (Maximus) I used Argo axles and Argo bearing housings. The original Max II had a 3 hole flange bearing, but the bottom 2 holes matched the Argo bearing housing. So using the bearing housing as a template I drilled 2 more holes through the body and steel frame. I then used silicone to fill the top hole. The Argo gaskets/housing also cover the silconed hole.

By using the Argo bearing housing you get 2 axle seals (I upgraded these to double lip/garter spring type). The Argo 1 1/4" splined axles have a shoulder machined down to 1" dia. to accommodate the 1" inner bearings. The shoulder is seated right against the 1" bearing which prevents axle movement inwards and the double washers/ taped end of the shaft is secured by a bolt which prevents outward movement.

Even though I haven't seen a Hustler in real life I think the Argo components could be easily adapted. Argo components are fairly inexpensive:

Axles: $50.00
Aluminum bearing housing: $20
Splined sprockets around: $50.

[brushcutter]

Thanks for all your input guys,

It does seem to be fairly straightforward proposition.Bw6 got me wondering :If the Argo has a 1 1/4" axle,then I should be able to use Max bearings and flanges and I think the bolt pattern will be the same.Do any of you know if this is the case?Now the way I figure it,at these prices I could do the 950 for about $920.That's 10 sprockets @ $50 =$5oo + 6 bearing housings @ $20 =$120 and 6 axles @ $50 = $300 that comes to...yup $920 + shipping.

Cclingma this sounds like a replace as it breaks kind of thang to my pennybank! !LOL!

I am exploring options that will be an improvement over the bolt through axle design.I am also looking at taperlock sprockets which require keyed shaft but have a flange that clamps or releases as needed for removal.As I understand it they don't require set screws because of the clamping action.But I would have to cut the keyways in my own round stock,or buy keyed stock and fill the area where it goes through the outer bearing.

I really appreciate all of your help and I will let you all know what I learn on the taperlock stuff as I find it.-Gregg

[micmac]

Brushcutter,

The older Max (96 and older I think) used the 62 mm O.D. bearings. The newer ones stepped up to a larger bearing thus a larger flange so the bolt holes wouldn't line up.

Here is a link to my max IV with argo flanges:

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/argo-atvs/1614-bearing-flange-question-argo-gurus.html

Best upgrade I've done


Mike

[brushcutter]

Micmac

Thanks for the link. I've been trying to come up with a simple and inexpensive way to convert to a larger stronger axle. The problem that I see with this is that I have a 3 hole pattern in my flanges, tub, and frame, and the max has a 4 hole. Seems that I find myself doing a bearing change for Mudbug's Max IV, so I think that while I have some of his flanges around I will do a flange comparison to see if they are similar enough to repattern my Tub and frame to adapt to a 4 hole pattern (not so simple). And do some research to see if I can get a 3 hole to match but with a 1 1/4" bearing, which is the most likely route to take.Will see...

[jpswift1]

Micmac

Thanks for the link. I've been trying to come up with a simple and inexpensive way to convert to a larger stronger axle. The problem that I see with this is that I have a 3 hole pattern in my flanges, tub, and frame, and the max has a 4 hole. Seems that I find myself doing a bearing change for Mudbug's Max IV, so I think that while I have some of his flanges around I will do a flange comparison to see if they are similar enough to repattern my Tub and frame to adapt to a 4 hole pattern (not so simple). And do some research to see if I can get a 3 hole to match but with a 1 1/4" bearing, which is the most likely route to take.Will see...

Just get the older style Max 62mm 3 hole flanges and use the older style Max 62mm OD, 1 1/4" ID bearings and you're set. I got all my 3 hole flanges for my Hustler from Buffalo Bearing and they're the same ones that I used on a couple of my older Max II restorations. This way there is no cutting of the Hustler frame and tub......it is a direct bolt on fit for the flanges and the bearings from the Max fit right in no problem. The number to Buffalo Bearing is 716-874-1720 if you decide to go with this setup.

[brushcutter]

Jp, did you go with keyed or splined axles? The reason I ask is that I'm thinking buy keyed stock and cut to length then when an axle is damaged I can cut the flange off machine it and weld it to the new shaft after turning the inboard end to 1" diameter. The keway can be filled with RTV or J B weld or welded and turned to diameter where the axle passes through the outer bearing. I would try the former 2 before the last just to see if they would work.Using this method I could possibly build my own axles for pennies on the dollar. We have a rockwell tester at work, I will have some axles tested and buy a comparable grade shaft. I like the 1 1/4" bearing idea. I thought I bought 3-hole flanges for the Max I owned before,but was not sure -- thanks for the reminder!

[jerseybigfoot]

My Hustler started out with hubs welded to my axles and after numerous bent axles I went with a hubless axle. The wheel flange is now pinned to a straight piece of chromed 1050 rod stock with a sleeve welded to the wheel hub. Good axle material inexpensive to manufacture. Cut the old axles with about an inch of material sticking out of the hub to center and weld the sleeve on. Pinned the sleeve to the axle the same as the sprockets. Drill two holes through the axle and reduce the diameter of one end to 1" for the inner brg. Good results for the past 6 years running 25" rawhide 3 on 1 3/16 axles.

[brushcutter]

Jersy, to what do you attribute your continued success with this setup. Do you think the hub sleeve absorbs and therefore dampens shock to your axles and this helps prevent damage.Or is this material stronger to begin with? What is the length of the sleeves?

[cclingma]

Very intersting post here.

I've just read that the "old" Max bearing flanges will fit the Hustler bearings. What would a guy ask for from Recreatives to get the old flange? Any idea what they run$$$

[brushcutter]

No idea what they cost now but if someone could get the numbers for the flange and bearing then most any large bearing store is able to cross reference them and get you the stuff you want. The store that I bought my Max stuff at also carried sprokets, chain, and flanges and it was a small store. Imagine if you could get your machine set up so that you could buy everything except "hard parts", the stuff that you can only buy from your manufacturer, from a local source. That is where I want to go with this, build what I can and only buy what I must and most of what I buy do it locally! I will try to find the info for the store and get that up. They were very helpful and knowledgeable.

[jerseybigfoot]

Here is a link for the flange size at Baum Bearing.

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/catalog/q03.pdf

BTY The 1050 material used in my axles is 100,000 psi tensile chromed rod used for hydraulic cylinders.