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Hustler Shift Linkage Concept

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  • Hustler Shift Linkage Concept

    Here is my idea split shifter solution, Version #1.
    I say Version #1, because the assembly sticks out under the back seat area more than I would like for it to. I was trying to keep the all-thread as close to traveling a straight line as possible and maintain a short travel with the shifting handles. I think I can get it tucked under the seat better, but for now this will work. I’m ready to get this thing operational so I can drive it!



    There are two outer round tubes (left and right) that pivot over a small diameter inner tube that is capped and tapped and bolted to the mounting brackets that mount to the T-20



    I use all-thread and compression springs for the final links. The all-thread pass though the shifting pin that I made out of tool steel, and works also as a over center stop when the seat brace is mounted.



    Here are some tubes that I made that bend up over the frame and under the floor board brace, to connect the handles to the shifting assembly mounted to the T-20. They have bolts welded to the ends of the tubes to allow adjustments to be made at the tie rod ends. I’m not sure if the tie rod ends I have are the best solution because they allow the tubes to move a little more side to side than I would prefer. My next version I might try to use fixed ends.



    All in all I’m pleased with the way it shifts. I have plenty of places to make adjustments to dial in the travel of the selectors with little of movement in the linkage. I hope with my next design I can get it more compact.

    With all that being said and me reading over it, I hope it makes sense to everyone. I can envision it, but I sometimes have trouble getting it to words so everybody can understand whats trapped in my head.

    I would also like to note that I don’t think this would be possible if I was going to run the factory middle axle brake.
    I hope this will help others out that don't like thier current set-up, being the cables or the type that doesn't allow split shifting, to thinking. I counldn't have done it without this site. The pictures from other peoples' manchines really got the wheels turning. So get out there and take somemore pictures, somebody needs to see what you got.

    TaDa!

  • #2
    Nice set-up I think you should be able to split shift it works great when your in the water for turns and doing doughnuts in and out of the water.....good job.....

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    • #3
      Outstanding! I like the design very much. Do you get any flex in the support when you shift?

      Very nice.
      Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

      (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

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      • #4
        Nope

        It is pretty strong....suprisingly, 9 ga. steel was used to make the links. Everything moves pretty smooth, wich keeps out from binding and flexing anything.


        By the way... I was able to bolt down the upper body and take her for drive arond the yard for about 30 minutes today. Man! What a sence of accomplishment. This thing is great. Just have some fine tuning to do on the carb, and it should haul.

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        • #5
          That looks good,Let me know when your ready to go ride......
          sigpic

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          • #6
            I have a Hustler and it has two separate shift levers, I was trying to link it together to make it simpler. Do you have pictures of the original single lever shifter.
            Thanks

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            • #7
              duckhunt81



              Great pictures of the work that you did. These clear pictures should really help the other forum members who have been thinking about doing the exact same thing. Have have the spring loaded chain tensioners worked that are on either side of your T-20?
              Last edited by mudbug3; 09-22-2009, 09:55 AM.

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              • #8
                I haven't had a lot of run time yet, but everything looks like it should work just fine. I'm assuming it came this way from the factory.

                My 950 that I am currently working on "had" the sprockets style, with one of the bearings gone out, I cut them off and I'm planning on using the floating style you've been raving about.

                And another note, I split my 950 shifters also. I'll have some picture of that up soon. The 950 was pretty easy since it had the pivot point already determined.
                Last edited by duckhunt81; 09-22-2009, 02:04 PM.

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                • #9
                  duckhunt81,


                  Make sure that you brace your T-20 on all four corners, at the bottom and the top, because when ever you use your split shifter ,the T-20 will try to twist out of the stock mounting holes.

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                  • #10
                    What's a good way to brace it?
                    There is a thread where it was explained, I tried to verify what had been stated, but unsuccessful thus far.

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                    • #11
                      Duckhunt81 -
                      On your machine, beside the good shift linkage, looks like you have the exhaust goes from the left side back to the right side and to the outside, is there a good reason for that?
                      I'm working on my muffler and thinking make a hole to the outside on the plastic but on the same side.
                      Any body have a suggestion for a quite muffler to put on these machine??
                      I rather loose some HP for a quite machine.
                      I have the Kohler K341 16HP with a 1.25" Pipe thread exhaust.
                      Thanks

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