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I have a relatively easy method of bracing the t-20 in a Hustler or MaxIV (easy doesn't necessarily mean quick). It is a 4 bolt design and I did this on my 950 while restoring it, because I was going to run a split shifter, and I knew that the cheesy stock system would not hold up to the strain of a split. This requires removing the t20 and replacing it a few times to be sure of fit, clearance, and for welding. This is what I did:
cut 8 pieces of 1/8" x 1" x 1" angle iron 1" long,(1/4" x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2" angle can be used for more strength) then drill a 25/64" hole in each piece, located so a socket or wrench can get on the nuts/bolts that will be used. The key is to stay as close to the other web as possible, if you get to far out you will lose strength. Then cut 2 pieces of 1/4" x 1 1/2" flat bar 10" long, these are fitted to bolt on the top, where the shift diamond keepers bolt up,and 3/8" holes for these bolts are drilled. These holes are offset from center, so check for proper fit/clearance, when done correctly, bolts placed in the angle pieces (in the next step) will hang close to the front/back of the t20 housing. Weld 4 of the angle pieces, "throat" up, flush to the lower inside corners of the flat bars. Then weld the other 4 angle pieces to the frame/transmission channel, throat down, so that a 3/8"x6"(or longer) bolt can be dropped into the holes in the top angle pieces,passing through the bottom pieces, and a locknut snugged up. When you install the flat bars the angle pieces will face the center of the tub, and you will need bolts long enough to make up the 1/4" thickness of these plates, use blue loctite and tighten to spec. Set the transmission in place, but do not tighten the 4 stock mounting nuts(bolts) at the bottom of the t20. Drop the 4--3/8"x6" bolts into the holes you drilled in the angle pieces and snug a locknut onto the long bolts. Tighten these ONLY enough to pull the t20 down snug, and then tighten the four stock mounting nuts/bolts. You will not have to worry about the transmission moving again...ever!
cut 8 pieces of 1/8" x 1" x 1" angle iron 1" long,(1/4" x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2" angle can be used for more strength) then drill a 25/64" hole in each piece, located so a socket or wrench can get on the nuts/bolts that will be used. The key is to stay as close to the other web as possible, if you get to far out you will lose strength. Then cut 2 pieces of 1/4" x 1 1/2" flat bar 10" long, these are fitted to bolt on the top, where the shift diamond keepers bolt up,and 3/8" holes for these bolts are drilled. These holes are offset from center, so check for proper fit/clearance, when done correctly, bolts placed in the angle pieces (in the next step) will hang close to the front/back of the t20 housing. Weld 4 of the angle pieces, "throat" up, flush to the lower inside corners of the flat bars. Then weld the other 4 angle pieces to the frame/transmission channel, throat down, so that a 3/8"x6"(or longer) bolt can be dropped into the holes in the top angle pieces,passing through the bottom pieces, and a locknut snugged up. When you install the flat bars the angle pieces will face the center of the tub, and you will need bolts long enough to make up the 1/4" thickness of these plates, use blue loctite and tighten to spec. Set the transmission in place, but do not tighten the 4 stock mounting nuts(bolts) at the bottom of the t20. Drop the 4--3/8"x6" bolts into the holes you drilled in the angle pieces and snug a locknut onto the long bolts. Tighten these ONLY enough to pull the t20 down snug, and then tighten the four stock mounting nuts/bolts. You will not have to worry about the transmission moving again...ever!
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