Need leads for HDPE rollers with bearings

[spud9slim18]

racerone3 while i am throwing around my two cents worth as if i was j.d.rockefeller you may want to turn the center part of the roller where the chain runs a smaller od than the ends or sides the only problem i've had in the past with a straight or flat roller is when the chain starts to stretch and loosens up it will crawl around on the flat surface if too much slop gets in the chain it may start to knaw at the guides or mounting bracket my thought is a flat a little wider than the chain maybe an eighth to a quarter inch smaller od in the center of the roller then angled to your original end od much like the old duncan butterfly yo-yos this would help keeping the chain running straight and true even if it had a little play in it just a thought /tim

[racerone3]

I like the idea of the rollers for a few different ATV applications. Egoperf and Mark M. have been working on updated Max II chain adjusters, and one of the issues they were running into (if I can describe it well, and accurately) was when the roller was only supported from one side (i.e., a bolt through the roller, bolted to a piece of Unitstrut) it was difficult to get pinch spacing right so that the bolt would tighten into the Unitstrut firmly enough to stay tight, but not so tight that it would bend the spacers. I guess the bushing in the roller actually collapsed the washers (for lack of a better term) on each side, and tightened up on the roller. The roller didn't roll anymore, and it actually acted as a slider. Since there's such limited contact area on that circle, the chain ended up chewing right into the roller, and it never really rolled again, from what I understand. I think this could be eliminated if you could support the roller on both sides. I don't know if this is practical on the Hustler; I just don't have familiarity with them. I'll have to go look through the pictures.

~m

the steel bung that goes inside my rollers will be THICK wall, and 0.010 smaller in O.D. than the I.D. of the roller. horefully they won't mushroom out enough to jamb. if this desigh fails, i can go to sliders like Mark had in Ashtabula. i have a bunch of junk Max adjusters that i could steal the sliders off

racerone3 while i am throwing around my two cents worth as if i was j.d.rockefeller you may want to turn the center part of the roller where the chain runs a smaller od than the ends or sides the only problem i've had in the past with a straight or flat roller is when the chain starts to stretch and loosens up it will crawl around on the flat surface if too much slop gets in the chain it may start to knaw at the guides or mounting bracket my thought is a flat a little wider than the chain maybe an eighth to a quarter inch smaller od in the center of the roller then angled to your original end od much like the old duncan butterfly yo-yos this would help keeping the chain running straight and true even if it had a little play in it just a thought /tim

I found some fender washers with a 2 1/4 O.D. that i'm going to try on the outside of the rollers, if that doesn't work out i will need to turn the rollers down. unfortunatly, they will probably all have to be custom once i get chain in the machine. from what i've seen so far the Hustler frame isn't too precice, so i don't want to turn the rollers and count on all of them coming up in the same place.

[lewis]

I like the idea of the rollers for a few different ATV applications. Egoperf and Mark M. have been working on updated Max II chain adjusters, and one of the issues they were running into (if I can describe it well, and accurately) was when the roller was only supported from one side (i.e., a bolt through the roller, bolted to a piece of Unitstrut) it was difficult to get pinch spacing right so that the bolt would tighten into the Unitstrut firmly enough to stay tight, but not so tight that it would bend the spacers. I guess the bushing in the roller actually collapsed the washers (for lack of a better term) on each side, and tightened up on the roller. The roller didn't roll anymore, and it actually acted as a slider. Since there's such limited contact area on that circle, the chain ended up chewing right into the roller, and it never really rolled again, from what I understand. I think this could be eliminated if you could support the roller on both sides. I don't know if this is practical on the Hustler; I just don't have familiarity with them. I'll have to go look through the pictures.

~m

Mike, this is a little bit not on Race's subject but a shoulder bolt will work in your instance you are discribing to stop the lock down of the roler. Just my 2 cents. Then again you may have already tried it that way.

[micmac]

Sorry guys for starting a thread the disappearing for a bit.

Mike : I hadn't thought of the compression force but you are correct it would be possible to crush the bearing.

Lewis: I like the shoulder bolt idea.

My redneck solution for a while now has worked but I would like something better. I drilled out a portion of the roller to allow room for a nut to fit partially inside. I put the roller on a bolt with the proper shoulder that would allow the nut to thread all the way to the shoulder. This allowed the roller to move freely and the inner nut would allow the bolt to be torqued to the unistrut without interfering with the roller. Its worked just ok but I'd like to find / build a better system.

Here is a picture of my current bandaid solution:

[lewis]

I know you probably have thought of this but here goes. Why not a sprocket at this position? There must be a reason why you are using the Teflon? Workable space limitations or are you trying to get away from using so many sprockets? I am not so familiar with the style machine you have.

[Don]

I think Micmac's running into the same problem I am, Lewis. On the rear chains of the Hustler there's not enough room between the frame rails and the bottom of the body to use even a thirteen tooth idler. The original rollers aren't that good and tend to crumble after a while.

[micmac]

Don is right. Plus I don't have enough clearance between my mounts and linkage for the t-20 shifters on the drive chain as well.

[racerone3]

here are my finished rollers. ended up only needing to go 0.004 bigger on the I.D. of the Roller than the O.D. of the bung to get them to roll nice and smooth. Shawn (my "work for beer" machinist) is working on getting a price per unit for those interested in a set. I had to pay for the stick of Delrin ($67 for 14 inches) and he did the work for me. we are also going to look at other materials for both price, and function reasons although i think the Delrin is going to work out really well.

[Mike]

Those look very good Brian.

[JoeMeg]

" I had to pay for the stick of Delrin ($67 for 14 inches) "
Brian, not sure exactly what grade of Delrin was avail but here are a few popular choices around my shop. McMaster/Carr 8576k29 is 2" dia. @ $ 16.46/ft. and a glass filled resin grade 8719k17 2" dia. is avail @ $ 42.69/ft. I believe deliery on a credit card purch. is aprox. $ 5.00. Not a huge savings, but $ is $. Joe.

[JoeMeg]

Also, for a little more info (confusion,decisions that need made) go to mcmaster.com and search for 8747kac it's some tech data. Joe

[JoeMeg]

micmac go to mcmaster.com and search for cat. pg. # 3498 it is an overview of polyurethane type matl's. I know this stuff is much "softer" than Nylon/Teflon/Delrin. Not sure how it would fare in a chain tension roller application as opposed to say, Delrin. Joe.

[racerone3]

Joe, I'm not sure the actual makeup of the stuff we used, but it is ultra high wear. we use it for skid stops on the race cars. you can drag it on the track for 500 miles and only see a sixteenth of wear. we went to this from a product called Jabrock because this stuff is also very low friction.

it's probably overkill for my application, but it was in the rack!

[micmac]

Thanks Joe I'll check it out. I was planning on HDPE as that's what the originals where made of. If there are better materials I'd be game to use them

Mike

[MarshallEpp]

just a thought that kinda looks like a skate board wheel. i wonder?