I have an older hustler atv @ late 70s to early 80s. It has a twin cylinder briggs 18 hp engine. The motor runs great, the chains and idlers are fair to good, bearings all smooth and greased. when i start forward it does great until my speed hits about 15- 20 mph and it starts bogging down. Not a motor bog but like a transmission bog. I can let up on the sticks and it will finally get back on the step. Also, does the transmission need atf fluid or 90 weight gear oil. Thanks in advance for any help.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
I need some hustler info.
Collapse
X
-
As long as your trans looks like thisit is a T-20 and takes ATF. Gear oil is a bad thing. Many people on the site use atf and GM limited slip diff. additive.....personally, I use GM auto trak fluidsportster trans oil 007.jpg
It is a synthetic atf made for transfer cases. It is high quality and makes the trans operate smoothly. I'm sure other synthetic atf's would work well also. Drain the trans like thissportster drowning 002.jpg and add 1 qt fluid, till it runs out the bottom plug/hole.
Your problem sounds more like a clutch issue to me...maybe the spring in the secondary is weak allowing the belt to advance too quickly.Last edited by thebuggyman1; 03-06-2011, 06:45 AM. Reason: t-20 picture http://www.6x6world.com/gallery/other-amphibious-atvs/p10453-super-swamp-fox-diesel.html
-
I wonder if your clutches are sticky and getting stuck in the upper range ratio. If so and your lucky maybe just spraying it with some graphite lubricate will help. Spray inside the drive clutch cover and the ramps and shaft on the driven. NAPA lock ease (part number BK 7651384) will work well for lubricating them. Maybe you can rev the machine up in neutral and watch the clutches cycle and see if it looks normal. Worse case is something worn in the clutches might need to come off and gone through. Before you remove them make sure the little plastic buttons are on the driven clutch. If you pull pretty hard on the belt you can get the driven clutch to spread open, do that and see if it seems stick. Also there might be some rollers worn or something in the drive clutch too. Of coarse maybe its something else too but I dont see what else would bog it down at the higher speeds like you describe unless its something with the engine itself at higher rpm. Good luck and post back what you find.
Comment
-
could the width of my belt cause something like this. It seemed to fo better when the belt was brand new. Also, I have checked my clutch on the transmission and the spring does seem to be pretty weak. Looks oem. I use this thing daily on a farm and would love to get the bugs worked out because when its right it is one of the best tools on the farm. When its not right it can be quite aggrivating. I am going to order a new belt today and check out that spring a little further.
Comment
-
A worn belt could do that actually. It will affect the lower end power and then at higher end speeds it is so skinny it will get caught in the pulley faces on the driven pulley. The lower end of faces are flat without the angle to spit the belt back out. If it is that bad you will also see a great improvement in the low end power of that machine! Hopefully that is all it is.Good luck and let us know.
Comment
-
A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
Comment
-
Nice work Race!!
Also thought I would mention that a worn belt will also make it loose. The top of the belt should be flush with the top of the driven pulley. I believe there should be a little over an inch of belt slack(1.25"?) measure in the middle of the 2 clutches from a straight edge going either up or down but not both. That measurement should be on a new proper width belt.
Comment
Comment