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Fixing my 950

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  • Fixing my 950

    I think I will consolidate all my posts concerning my 950 into 1.

    The issue I noticed tonight while disassembling my worn out parking break, a T20 mount bolt is AWOL. It is the bottom right side front bolt. Upon further inspection it appears my T20 is a few degrees left off center line. My right rear chain is also loose and wearing on the side of some brackets. There is an added mount bolt to the right side top, but you can see the bottom is out of alignment.



    I vaguely remember Raceone3 was saying something about it.. might be stripped out .. How do I fix the hole? What size helix and bolt do i need?
    Last edited by Dan67; 04-09-2011, 10:01 PM.

  • #2
    Dan, the trans I pulled out of that machine had a broken off bolt in that location, I assume that's why someone added the upper mount. (I thought it was a good enough idea so I copied it in my 980). The trans that is in there now HAD all the bolts when you got it. If it's broken again I would suspect that there is an issue with the mount in that area causing them to break, but I can't think what it could be. They are 3/8" bolts, but I can't remember off the top if they are fine or coarse... just pull one of the others to double check. Dig around in the tub and see if you find a bolt (or the broken head of one. you might just be able to put a new one in. (you will need to loosen all the others and wiggle the trany around to get one in. If threads are pulled out of the hole, you can put a helicoil in there and be just fine. just don't over drill the hole
    The rear chains on the Hustlers will rub the frame when they get the least bit loose, and the RR is the hardest one to get to.
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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    • #3
      As long as it's stock, it SHOULD be 3/8"-16, which is the coarse thread. Most machines that I've worked on use studs, where the coarse side of the stud is in the transmission case, and the fine (3/8"-24) sticks out of the case, and either uses oval-lock or nylock nuts. This isn't always the case, but it's the most common that I've come across.

      Keep your eyes on ALL nuts and bolts on the machine as best you can. Stuff comes loose whether you use loctite, lock washers, lock nuts, or weld the d@mn things together.
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      • #4
        Thanks guys.. starting to think after Busco, I'll need to take it all apart and redo it they way I like it, new Vanguard engine, new exhaust, new t20 mounts, new shift linkages, new parking break.. maybe I can get it back together by the Fall Busco. All depends if I can get the time off from work. I still have not had a day off sense I picked it up from Race..

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        • #5
          I got some stress cracks to fix on the frame crossbars, I talked to a friend at work and he will fix all the bad spots and reinforce some of the weaker areas. I need some advice on tearing down the hustler. I know I'll need to remove the battery, engine, T-20, axles, chains & sprockets. I';; need to drain the gas tank too so I can remove the top. So If any of the Hustler guru's can chime in I'd really appreciate it.

          Whats the best order in thing I need to do take it apart? What advice can you give me on. Anything you guys can do is greatly appreciated!

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