I just purchased a Hustler 950

[zoood]

I just purchased a Hustler 950, poly body and 18HP 694cc Briggs I/C twin engines, T-20. Was wondering how I would be able to know what year this one is. After a trial run today I found that I need to do some work on it. One of the axles, while in shallow water leaked. So I would guess I need an axle seal. I'd rather do all six. Anyone suggest what I would need, and where I could purchase these. I think someone mentioned a place in Buffalo. Is knowing the year of mine necessary to get the seals and whatever else is needed? I will also need to know what size link chain is on here. Another thing I noticed is that when I try to start it. I hear the solenoid for the starter knock. One time for each time I turn the key.
If I physically turn the crank a little till I hear metal to metal contact and then turn on the ignition. It starts. I can only guess that theres a place that the teeth on the fly wheel (if thats what the starter engages) are missing. Anyone have any input on that?

[LarryW]

If the briggs is original you can date it with the code. It has 8 digits. First 2 are year, then 2 are month, then 2 are day. Other 2 are not used for the date.

A hustler expert can help you more on the bearings but normally just measure them and get same specs. I have never dealt with buffalo bearing but I hear its a great source.

Could the metal be a shield or something hitting the flywheel?

[racerone3]

There is no actual seal other than the seals on the bearing. You will need HC206-19 Bearings for the outers on the hustler. You can find tons of sources online, or give Buffalo Bearing a call 1800-669-8019. You should probably look into the condition of your inners as well. they are a 52mm OD, 1" ID bearing with a set screw locking inner race (Sorry, can't seem to remember the Part # right off, but Greg at B-lo Bearing can get you steered in the right direction)

For the starting issue. I suspect that the plastic starter gear is cracked. when this happens, they will stick partially in the out position and can't get any momentum before engaging the flywheel. yank the tin side cover off the engine and see for sure what is happening when you hit the key. A replacement gear is about $11, but they can be a huge PITA to change on that engine

[hydromike]

(Sorry, can't seem to remember the Part # right off....

UC205-16

[zoood]

Thank you for those parts numbers. It's tight working on that engine in there. I feel Ill have to pull it just work on it. But that would also aid at working in there as well. Do you know the size of the chain I'm running there? I plan on making new chain tentioners or rollers. I dont know what they are called. By chance any idea where I can obtain a shop service manual? I also noticed down on the right side, just in front of T20. There's a chain tentioner there too. But I cant think of anyway I can get at it, unless I raise the frame.

[zoood]

If the briggs is original you can date it with the code. It has 8 digits. First 2 are year, then 2 are month, then 2 are day. Other 2 are not used for the date.

A hustler expert can help you more on the bearings but normally just measure them and get same specs. I have never dealt with buffalo bearing but I hear its a great source.

Could the metal be a shield or something hitting the flywheel?

Where is the code on the engine?

[LarryW]

Where is the code on the engine?

I cant remember specifically but normally on the engine flywheel cover near a head. I cant remember what side exactly on that model. It could be stamped into the tin or could be a tag. Normally not to hard to find it unless something is in the way.

[Dan67]

I'm nowhere near a hustler expert, still learning my way around it as I rebuild mine from a 950 into a 980. But from what I understand is that if the 18hp 694 briggs I/C twin is factory, it is either a 1984 or 1985. Call the good folks at Buffalo Bearings, and when you order your bearings also order new out flanges, they are 2 piece 3 bolt, make sure you get 6 with and 6 w/o grease zergs.. Thoroughly clean the body where the old where mounted and use strip caulk between the lower tub and the inner flange to get a good seal. You should refer to Mike's video he posted on changing bearings on a maxII on the 6x6world home page or YouTube. It really helped me when I did mine. When it comes to the inner bearings I found it best to remove the engine to replace the rears.

And those rear chain tensioners are a real PITA. I copied member Don and Raceone3 idea and made an adjustable tensioner that is much easier. It would not be a hard to do upgrade.

It uses the unistrut channel that is there with a 1/2"-20 unistrut nut welded to a section of 1/2"-20 all thread. The top nut is turned to tighten the chain upwards.

[micmac]

The machine will have #50 chain

If you are looking for a Hustler Manual there is one uploaded on the site here:

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/content/section/285-hustler-amphibious-atv-manual.html

Hustler used a variety of chain tensioners off of the T - 20. Could you take a picture of the ones you have and uplink it. From there we could make some recommendations. For instance the clearance on the right side is pretty tight for a roller so a idler may be in order.

[zoood]

The machine will have #50 chain

If you are looking for a Hustler Manual there is one uploaded on the site here:

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/content/section/285-hustler-amphibious-atv-manual.html

Hustler used a variety of chain tensioners off of the T - 20. Could you take a picture of the ones you have and uplink it. From there we could make some recommendations. For instance the clearance on the right side is pretty tight for a roller so a idler may be in order.

No the owners manual doesnt have what I want. I need a shop service manual. Like what a mechanic would use for reference on any part throughout the 950 Hustler.

[zoood]

As for the #50 chain. If I replaced all the chains. What length of chain are we talking. I have a link splitter here. I'm just curious as to how much I would need.

[zoood]

The machine will have #50 chain

If you are looking for a Hustler Manual there is one uploaded on the site here:

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/content/section/285-hustler-amphibious-atv-manual.html

Hustler used a variety of chain tensioners off of the T - 20. Could you take a picture of the ones you have and uplink it. From there we could make some recommendations. For instance the clearance on the right side is pretty tight for a roller so a idler may be in order.

There is a roller down in there. I can spin it. I just order new bearings (inner and outer) and the inner and outer flanges as well. That roller I just mentioned. I'll be able to get at it when I pull the frame out of the tub. Then I'll modify it so I can adjust it from up top. All the other rollers I'm gonna make new ones. I may be a newbie at this. But I'd rather build my own before I settle for store bought. Besides I trust my work. that #50 chain. That fits some of the motorcycles I've built. Anyone find a good price on that by the foot?

[zoood]

I just purchased a Hustler 950, poly body and 18HP 694cc Briggs I/C twin engines, T-20. Was wondering how I would be able to know what year this one is. After a trial run today I found that I need to do some work on it. One of the axles, while in shallow water leaked. So I would guess I need an axle seal. I'd rather do all six. Anyone suggest what I would need, and where I could purchase these. I think someone mentioned a place in Buffalo. Is knowing the year of mine necessary to get the seals and whatever else is needed? I will also need to know what size link chain is on here. Another thing I noticed is that when I try to start it. I hear the solenoid for the starter knock. One time for each time I turn the key.
If I physically turn the crank a little till I hear metal to metal contact and then turn on the ignition. It starts. I can only guess that theres a place that the teeth on the fly wheel (if thats what the starter engages) are missing. Anyone have any input on that?

Well I found where the noise I was hearing when I physically turned the crank. After removing the fly wheel. The armature was shot and half of the magnets in the back of the flywheel were missing. Anyone know of where I can get another set? I can't believe that the engine actually ran like this.

[hydromike]

Anyone know of where I can get another set?

Here's your flywheel: briggs opposed 18hp twin flywheel | eBay

aaaaaand here's your stator: Briggs & Stratton 18HP Opposed Twin Cylinder Engine - Stator | eBay

These show up a lot on ebay, usually for decent Buy It Now prices....

[zoood]

Id rather purchase a new stator and the fly wheel I have is fine. Its the magnets I need that encompass the stator.