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I just purchased a Hustler 950

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  • #16
    well this is good news for me. i'm looking at pictures of your flywheel and it's missing magnets and starting to think my flywheel problems aren't so bad. this is one great site. if your motor was running with those few magnets mine should work fine, i've only got chunks missing on two of my magnets. was your battery being charged with the magnets like that? that's my concern using my flywheel. do you know the year of your motor zoood? my flywheel looks different on the non magnet side. i'm going to try putting my motor back together sat or monday and see if the flywheel is good. i'm very interested in this thread so any feedback is great.

    trevor

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    • #17
      i had put an 800 cranking amp battery in mine. I have no idea if it was charging or not. I only ran it for maybe an hour. I would think the new battery I put in there was holding out for the short time I ran it. I called Briggs and Straton. Their emailing me a parts brochure so I can look at the diagrams and select what I need. This way Ill have the correct part numbers. The code on my engine gives me the date they made this engine. June 08, 1981. I can see I also need a new starter gear. I cant believe they make it out of plastic.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by zoood View Post
        Id rather purchase a new stator..... <suuuuuuuuuhnip>....
        http://www.briggs-parts-store.com/pa...01199/6930006A

        Here's the parts diagram for an engine very, very close to your 18 I/C. You can type in your exact model number to get the a more precise answer. Briggs manuals are all over on-line; this is just one Site. At least it will give you a ballpark figure for price.

        Originally posted by zoood View Post
        I can see I also need a new starter gear. I cant believe they make it out of plastic.
        I just replaced one of these plastic gears on a Heald Supertrike. It was under $4.00 for the part. It sucks that they're plastic, but much cheaper to replace a dozen of them than a single flywheel ring gear.
        sigpic

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        • #19
          How do I know if I have a dual circuit or not? #474 matches what I have here.
          Last edited by zoood; 12-15-2011, 03:57 PM.

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          • #20
            can I purchase the magnets for the flywheel?

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            • #21
              Originally posted by zoood View Post
              can I purchase the magnets for the flywheel?
              I really don't know. They don't list them on this page (http://www.briggs-parts-store.com/pa...1199/6930005AA), but that doesn't necessarily mean you can't buy them separately.

              They sell the flywheel as a whole (I know you don't need one), but the price listed for it shows as "Call us", which is the equivalent to a significant other sitting you down and saying "we need to talk".

              Your best bet at this point is to talk to a Briggs supplier if you want new stuff, and see what they can get you.
              sigpic

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              • #22
                I followed your advice and purchased the stator and Im getting the flywheel (used) too. Now all I need is the plastic gear for the starter.

                I just ordered the starter gear. $5.95.
                Last edited by zoood; 12-16-2011, 12:50 PM. Reason: addition

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by racerone3 View Post
                  There is no actual seal other than the seals on the bearing. You will need HC206-19 Bearings for the outers on the hustler. You can find tons of sources online, or give Buffalo Bearing a call 1800-669-8019. You should probably look into the condition of your inners as well. they are a 52mm OD, 1" ID bearing with a set screw locking inner race (Sorry, can't seem to remember the Part # right off, but Greg at B-lo Bearing can get you steered in the right direction)

                  For the starting issue. I suspect that the plastic starter gear is cracked. when this happens, they will stick partially in the out position and can't get any momentum before engaging the flywheel. yank the tin side cover off the engine and see for sure what is happening when you hit the key. A replacement gear is about $11, but they can be a huge PITA to change on that engine
                  I received the inner and outer bearings today. I managed to pull one of the axles. What I did notice was when I unbolted the inner and out flanges and pulled the axle out. On the outer bearing, along with the flanges there was a large "O" ring. If this "O" ring is a necessity. I wonder why BS didnt include them or even mention them. It looks like it's suppose to be fitted in the groove that's cut around the bearings circumference.

                  Also, looking at the picture below -



                  There isnt enough clearance to remove the inner bearing with it's inner flange between the frame and the other bearing. Suggestions?

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by zoood View Post
                    I received the inner and outer bearings today. I managed to pull one of the axles. What I did notice was when I unbolted the inner and out flanges and pulled the axle out. On the outer bearing, along with the flanges there was a large "O" ring. If this "O" ring is a necessity. I wonder why BS didnt include them or even mention them. It looks like it's suppose to be fitted in the groove that's cut around the bearings circumference.

                    Also, looking at the picture below -



                    There isnt enough clearance to remove the inner bearing with it's inner flange between the frame and the other bearing. Suggestions?
                    My flanges were different from yours. I had 1 piece stamped flange with the bearing factory installed in the flange. I have heard from others that Hustler actually used several different types of flanges on the inner bearing over the production period. I replaced mine with new 2 piece stamped flanges when I ordered my inner bearings (SA 205-16 52mm OD, 1" ID) from Buffalo Bearings. Try and push/pry the old bearing back into the flange and pull it out as a single piece.

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                    • #25
                      What about the "O" ring?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by zoood View Post
                        What about the "O" ring?
                        I did not have an "O" ring on mine. I think your o-ring is unique to the manufacturer that made your inner bearings. I'd just trash them and get new flanges, either a cast piece with grease zerg or like I did and got a 2 piece stamped steel flange.

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                        • #27
                          For the outer bearing. I have the inner and outer flanges, The outer has the grease zerg. Thanks for your input

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                          • #28
                            Curious, when all the axles are removed. Can the frame be lifted out? Or is it secured to the tub?

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by zoood View Post
                              Curious, when all the axles are removed. Can the frame be lifted out? Or is it secured to the tub?
                              Depending on how you removed the axles. The outer bearing flanges are bolted to the frame and must be removed as well. Most people have to press the outer bearings off when first rebuilding a machine, so you may have removed those bolts already to pull the axle, however if you were able to slide them out of the bearings with the bearings in place just get all the outer flanges undone and she will come right out.
                              l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

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                              • #30
                                thats what I was hoping. Seems the last owner loved having mud caked in there. Im removing the axles and flanges and both bearings on all. I want to wash the tub out and after cleaning the frame. Check for stress cracks and fix them and paint the frame. Thanks for your input.

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