1980 Hustler/Sidewinder build

[turtlecrawler]

Thanks for the tips guys.....As soon as I get the engine out today I will start on paint removal.....pics to follow...

[turtlecrawler]

Major Teardown begins..

Engine out today...Removed all the chains ( what a pain in the ***). Finished re-inforcing the trailer hitch and built the front bumper with winch mount....Not sure I like the front bumper might thing about re-doing it before I post pics of the bumper. Started pulling axles.....both of my bearing keepers (collars) are on the inside of the 950. Some of them appear missing. Got one axle out and letting the other ones soak till tomorrow...hopefully they will come out eaiser then the first one did today..2012-01-12_11-45-05_87.jpg2012-01-12_11-44-30_752.jpg2012-01-12_11-58-32_744.jpg2012-01-12_12-24-32_68.jpg2012-01-12_11-58-23_161.jpg

[turtlecrawler]

A couple more pics.......Does anyone know if the drive bell on this engine is factory ? The belt is ribbed,,,but the drive bell is not......Is that normal ?

[hydromike]

Most belts are ribbed now-adays. I'm not sure if it's to aid in cooling (some are ribbed on both sides) or to help the belt grip the clutches. They're not "cogged" belts, so to speak. I can't say that your Comet clutch is original, but it might be an upgrade from a Salisbury clutch.

[turtlecrawler]

Hydromike.....I guess I just don't know much about these types of clutches.....How can one tell if the clutch is good or bad ......Either the one one the engine or the one on the tranny, When I brought this rig home the tranny mount needed work ...That being said the belt sat deep in the clutcth on the tranny...Sound it not be near the top when it is not moving ?????

[LarryW]

Hey turtle,
Just so you know, the one on the engine is usually called the drive clutch or primary. The one on the transmission is called the driven or secondary. If the belt is sitting low in the secondary it sounds like the spring or something might have broke on it. The belt should sit up high on it with the top of the belt near the top edge of the pulley faces. That is also how you tell if the belt is worn because if it wears to much it will sit lower in the secondary pulley. So if your belt is really worn out that might be the problem. But by the sounds of it, its sitting real low. So something must be wrong with the secondary. Maybe if you could take a good picture or 2 we might be able to notice something? Just an idea if you need more help.

Edit, I just noticed in the belt picture you can see it a little. Looks like its closed like it should be in the picture?

[zoood]

Turtlecrawler, in the pictures you posted before dismantling your aatv. The front two posts that look to be part of a roll bar or just a canopy support. Where are they attached too?

RJ

[ATTACH=CONFIG]7865[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]7866[/ATTACH]Well here we go....I am new to the AATV world but I thought I would dive in and build a little Hustler I purchased less than a week ago. The plan is to tear it down to the frame, clean it all up, replace what is needed and fix what may have been done to it by its previous owners..... I will post pics as soon as I figure out how......

[hydromike]

How can one tell if the clutch is good or bad ......Either the one one the engine or the one on the tranny. <snip> That being said the belt sat deep in the clutcth on the tranny...Sound it not be near the top when it is not moving ?????

I think the only way to test the clutches (both the primary and secondary) throughout their range of operation, is to actually put them through their full range of operation. You can usually tell if a spring is broken in the clutch on the transmission, as the one drive sheeve will flop around in the breeze, and the belt will sit several inches below the top of the clutch. On the Comet Duster you have on your engine, you likely have the plastic puck weights that engage when the engine revs up. If this is the case, you don't have any rollers and only one return spring. My bet is to not worry too much about the drive clutch right now, and if the spring is good in the secondary, just lubricate the bushing and shaft (in the middle of the spring... you'll see it) with some dry graphite (available at most auto parts stores). If you're in a pinch and just need something lubed up (where's JP?) lithium grease or even <gasp> WD-40 will work.

The belt you have on your machine (Carlisle 704084) is the stock belt, and may even be original. The belt does seem to sit a bit low in the secondary clutch in the one picture you provided. Perhaps it's worn out. The original Carlisle belt is almost impossible to find, but Dayco HP2031 is just about as exact as it comes for a replacement. This is what I run on my Hustler. They're usually about $30 on Amazon or mfgsupply.com.

[turtlecrawler]

Zoood.....The bars are part of the roll cage if I understand you question correctly....The cage is attach to the upper body only...... During my re-build of this rig I will make some brackets from the frame to tie it all in......Making it a little safer I hope...

[turtlecrawler]

Hydromike.......Thank you for the education on clutches......Mine appear to be ok..I will check them out a little better when I get the frame out today.....As for the belt #s thanks a bunch

[hydromike]

Hydromike.......Thank you for the education on clutches......

You're very welcome. One thing to think about, as long as you're going as far as pulling the frame out. Most Hustlers don't have a provision for sliding the engine backward on its mount to adjust for a loosening belt. If you modify the engine mount you have to be able to slide, you'll save yourself from having to buy new belts when they loosen up to the point that adjustment is necessary. I never did the modification on mine, but I wish I had...

[Dan67]

On my 950 to 980 conversion build I replaced the worn out 18hp Briggs I/C with a new 23hp Vanguard V-twin. Therefore I needed to modify the engine tray to accept the new engine and to allow belt adjustments of +/- 1". I had the slots cut at a friend's machine shop.

[turtlecrawler]

Dan67....thanks for the engine mount pics....Will look into doing this when I get the frame out........6 hours out trying to get the axles out and I still have two more to go.....yuck......I also found that most of my inner bearing collars were missing .....Need to fix a least two sprockets and the middle axle on the driver side has been drilled in a different position. more to follow tomorrow....

[Hazard85]

That sounds similar to my experience. Mine is so badly rusted that I'm having to cut off all the inner bearings and collars.

[jpswift1]

If you're in a pinch and just need something lubed up (where's JP?) lithium grease or even <gasp> WD-40 will work.

Haha, oh wow don't get me going, I tend to get out of control. Maybe that's where the need for getting something lubed up comes into play.

You can get these flanges along with bearings, chain, sprockets, belts, etc from the guys at Buffalo Bearings (716) 874-1720. They take very good care of us 6X6World members. Tell them you heard of them here on the site and what you're working on and they'll find just what you need. The Fafnir part number for the Hustler/Sidewinder inner bearing flanges is 52MSTC2, but they can cross reference that for you and the last time I was there they had a few of them in the showroom. Also 1973 and newer Attexes used these flanges for their inner bearings as well.........just a side note in case anyone needs to know.


Keep up the good work and be persistent, it'll certainly pay off in the end!