Max II frame problem

[cementhead]

I bought an 80's max II and left rear tensioner was broken when I got it. Five of the sprockets and axles holes were oblongated and I welded and red riled the axles and fixed the sprockets with cup washers. I bought all new chains and put everything back together. Now the left rear chain is rubbing against the frame. The rear frame rail has a nice hook in it. Can the frame be bent back without taking it out of the tub? I was thinking about putting a little heat on it and putting a porta power between there an the center rail. The machine has a 23hp vanguard in it and I'm wondering if that bent the chassis. Would I be better off buying a chassis or fixing this one? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

[Mike]

You can try the porta power, just watch the center rail carefully as you use it to make sure that you aren't bending that instead of the bent portion of the frame. You can use heat too but I would put some shielding between the frame and the tub and maybe even fill the bottom with water. I used that method when torching a sprocket tube and it kept me from melting the tub.

As for the frame itself, it's not uncommon for the older max II frames to be bent in the rear and you can usually straighten them and continue to use them without any issues. I've seen several bent in the middle where the hitch attaches and my personal Max II was bent there as well. I pulled my frame out and straightened it but I was tearing the Max down all the way anyway. If I were you I would try straightening it with the porta power and not try to get a new one.

[fmints]

Hey Cementhead, I bought my Hustler 980 early this year, February, and I had to go thru the whole machine. I first noticed that the right middle I-beam was bent and broken and this made we want to pull my frame. I am so glad that I did, because i found about 21 cracks in my frame,, mostly only measuring about .25-.50 of and inch. Needless to say, I would have never found them all if i didnt pull the frame. I'm not trying to give you any extra work, but it would be good to pull it just to see what you are Really working with. This will also give you the opportunity to stiffen the frame up more than what it was when it was produced. When i had my 93'' Max II, I always felt the frame flex and twist, and it was really noticeable when compared to my brothers newer Max II with splined axles. If the disassembly is done carefully and smoothly, you may still be able to use the same bearings and such. If you have the time and patience, I really suggest to pull the frame. All i used to fix my frame was a couple of crow bars, 5lb hammer, saw, grinder, welder and two sets of eyes!!!. Cbass and I had it straightened in about 20 minutes!!

And I do agree that the 23 Vanny may have had something to do with it, but for the most part, the older machines lacked some of the strength in the frame that is incorporated into the new machines. Nonetheless, I like my 93 Max II a whole lot, but My 980 Hustler and I have a tighter bond!! If you can fix the issue using the porta, than so be it,,, but the peice of mind of knowing, is worth pulling the whole thing out and giving it a thorough inspection.

[cementhead]

Thanks Mike and fmints for the advice. I ended up straightening it out with the porta power. I know in the future I will pull the frame and fix it for good. The problem I having now is the rear left chain is so tight I can't get the tensioner on. It is a new chain and I have the tensioners from Richards. Will the chain stretch enough to get the tensioner on? Should I run the factory tensioner in that one spot. It is a very hard area to access. Is it possible I won't need a tensioner on that chain?

[brushcutter]

At some point you will have to put a tensioner on it. The chains will stretch as they are run and develop slack. You need the tires off the ground to tighten the chains properly.

[cementhead]

Took it out for my first ride last night and I love it. The only problem I can see now is the left jackshaft is moving right to left about a half inch. I noticed it when I had it off the ground running in gear. Is it because it isn't aligned to the lower sprocket. There is about an inch of space from the sprocket tube on the jack shafts to the plates on the ends. Should I put washers in there to keep it from walking? Or does some kind of adjustment need to made?

[thebuggyman1]

Most people don't understand how to adjust the jackshafts. They just tighten one side to tighten that chain, and end up wearing out the side of the sprocket.

The jackshafts must be tightened evenly. Once you get the shaft level and square in the frame, it becomes easy. If you tighten one front nut half a turn, just tighten the other front nut the same half turn. One top nut 3/4 turn, then the other top nut 3/4 turn, etc. The shaft will stay level and square this way and the sprockets will self align.

[cementhead]

Thanks for the reply. I turned everything equal turns. I am thinking it was set wrong when I got the machine. I will square everything up and recheck it.