1985 MAX IV - New (To me that is) and Engine Swap

[762x51]

Hello to you folks and wanted to show photos of a 1985 MAX IV that I bought last weekend. First 3 photos are ones that the previous owner sent me during the "phone" negations and last two are it sitting in a rest area on I-95 on the way back home.

I bought it knowing that the Tecumseh engine was going to need replacing but I had a 16hp B&S Vanguard so I'm set there. What I'd like some guidance on is choice of mufflers you folks would recommend. I spoke to Jay at Recreatives and he said their Vanguard muffler would require modifying the top screen on the engine compartment cover. I really don't want to do that, but will if I have to.

What muffler would you recommend? A stock B&S would be preferred - thoughts?
Vanguard Info:
Model 305447
Type 0075-E1
Code 06090411

Thanks in advance..

Orin

[jpswift1]

That Max looks great. Is it the one that was listed on the South Carolina Craigslist? If so, you got a REALLY GREAT deal on it. The Briggs Vanguard would be a good option, but I'd say your best option would be to go with a factory Recreatives Briggs muffler. I'm pretty sure there isn't one that you can fit in there without having to cut the screen on the top of the engine cover. Recreatives cut the factory screen to make the Briggs fit on these and I'm sure there would be someone that could help you out by giving you the dimensions of the cutout or using theirs as a template. Since you're in North Carolina, you should come join us at the Busco Beach ride sometime in Goldsboro, NC. Welcome to the site and congrats on the new toy!

PS- To help offset the costs of getting the Max back in shape, sell those OH160 (or is the OH180?) Tecumseh engine parts. They go for a pretty good buck, especially the ignition module.

[762x51]

Hello - Yes that's the one and the CraigsList photo didn't do it justice at all. The mechanical(s) look to be in great condition (except for the engine) with what appears to be little wear for the age. The tub and upper body are in great condition and underneath there is very little of the scuffing you'd expect to see. The guy I bought it from only had it a short while (he's in the Coast Guard and just got transfer orders) and he said he bought it from a farmer in the Charleston area. Looks to me like he must have used it to drive around the farm and little else.

Regarding the muffler - I'll probably end up going with one from Recreatives but I thought I'd check here first to see if there were a better option.

Busco? Hope I can make that event but right now things are up in the air because of a major surgery that I'm going to have to have. Getting old can be a ^&tch.

As to the OH160, it's not locked and turns freely but that's about all I know about it. I'll check it this weekend to see if there is any spark but I'm not going to use it and will want to get rid of it. A reasonable offer will make someone the new owner. Shipping would be the only issue.

[blown84gt]

Cutting the screen would be simple and my MAX IV is a 16 Vanguard and I'd be glad to take some pictures/measurements for you if you decide to follow that route.

[762x51]

Cutting the screen would be simple and my MAX IV is a 16 Vanguard and I'd be glad to take some pictures/measurements for you if you decide to follow that route.

Thanks Thomas - I just sent you an email with my address so you can send them to me direct without having to reduce the size for posting here.

Regards, Orin

[blown84gt]

I'll get them for you, be a couple days 'cause the max is at deer camp...

[762x51]

Cold weather has slowed down the work on the MAX IV but some work has been done towards installing the 16hp B&S Vanguard. Once I removed the seats and floorboards I found that the chassis and chains had sat under water for a while and surface rust was on almost everything. (Photos 1 & 2) I've sprayed down all with lube to let it soak while I work out the Vanguard installation. Once the installation is complete I'll take it back apart, remove the chains and give everything a proper cleaning.





blown84gt send me some photos of his Vanguard installation showing the modifications needed to the engine cover and the general installation arrangement. Thanks Thomas!!





Here is where I'm at, at the moment. The motor stand (or mount) slotted holes for the motor base have to be made about 1/4" longer to move the motor to the right (viewed from rear) to get the pulleys to align. blown84gt said his motor had 4 1/2" spacers under the motor to get proper belt tension but it doesn't appear that I'll need the spacers. I think blown84gt said his drive belt is an "aftermarket" one while mine is from RI so maybe that's why his installation needed the spacers.

The weather is supposed to warm up next week so I'll get back on the conversion then and post more photos of the progress.

Here is my motor mounted and aligned.

[blown84gt]

Looking good Orin!

Just curious, what brand/part number belt did RI send?

[jpswift1]

Fits in there just like it came that way from the factory. Nice work! One more thing you might want to do. Get a red driven clutch spring for the clutch on the T-20 from Recreatives. That 16 Vanguard will work great with this setup.

[demo61x]

I got my muffler from a discount lawn mower supply, it came from a craftsman tractor that had the 23hp briggs vertcal shaft it was new and only cost $18.00 and required minor mods to make it work. When i removed the magnum 20 and replaced it with the briggs 23 I had to use a 1 inch spacer plate under the briggs so I could use the belt that came with the machine, saved tons of time figuring out what belt to run. The only cover mods were to make the hole a little bigger for the briggs air cleaner. if you need any pics let me know. Rob

[blown84gt]

Fits in there just like it came that way from the factory. Nice work! One more thing you might want to do. Get a red driven clutch spring for the clutch on the T-20 from Recreatives. That 16 Vanguard will work great with this setup.

I keep hearing about the spring swap

1) what does it do?

2) how hard to swap?

3) if I upgrade to a 23 will it need to be swapped back?

[amphibious drew]

1. It keeps you in a lower gear longer for better torque.
2. It is simple. Take a c-clip off remove and replace spring, put clip back on.
3. No, it will be even more fun with the 23.

[762x51]

I spoke to Jay at RI and he said the spring on the driven clutch is a pain to replace and that for normal use the green spring will work fine. He did say that if you are carrying heavy loads or you are in steep terrain then the red spring would give better performance.

Jay also sent me a drawing showing how the clutches should be aligned.

RI B&S Vanguard application belt photos:





Clutch alignment drawing:

[jpswift1]

The red spring also works great when you have a larger, heavier machine like a Max IV with a smaller engine like the 16HP. Drew has this same setup in his Max IV and his machine will go just about anywhere with that red spring.

Most clutches that I've replaced the springs in didn't have too much of a problem coming off, although some can be tough if they're corroded.....two different metals, cast aluminum on steel. Like Drew said, there's just a C clip that needs to be removed to swap the springs. Keep pressure down on the clutch and use snap ring pliers to remove the clip. Slowly let up on the pressure you're putting on the clutch and remove the spring and swap the red one in.

The folks at Recreatives are extremely helpful and they great to deal with.

[micmac]

I think what Jay was referring to is having to actually pull the engine, engine mount, and T-20 just to get to the driven clutch. Yeas it is a process but it can be done in a day. Especially if you can get someone to turn wrenches with you. However replacing the spring itself in the driven clutch is easy.