Max II Front Chain Noise

[Eldon]

I just removed my tracks for the season and re-installed the front chains. I have a perplexing problem with a chain noise. Machine has about 400 hours on it. I remove the floor and jack it up it runs perfect no noise. When I drive however I get a chain noise similar to dragging a length of chain over something with a square edge maybe not that loud, quite. I can see absolutely nothing that it is rubbing on. The adjusters though seem to be either too loose or too tight just one notch apart. Is it possible that the teflon is worn too far? That is the only thing I can think of. Currently I have the chains if anything..too tight but it was noisy when they were too loose too. It has me baffled. Any input would be appreciated.

[Bazooo guy]

Have you checked the bearings and greased them?
With the chain slack and tire off the ground try and move the tire side to side and up and down...any movement is probably the bearings.

Adjust the tensioner with the tires off the ground.
They could be worn out if the grooves are deep and the chain pins are rubbing.

[Eldon]

New Bearings recently with about 75 hours on them. Bearings seem fine. Chains adjusted with wheels off the ground. This is what to me indicates worn tensioners.

[Eldon]

I think I have found the chain noise. I finally went for a short ride tonight with the floor out and can clearly see that the front chains are clearly out of alignment on both sides with the left side being worse,even can see the running even on the length of the teflon adjuster and the right side is out too though not quite as much. It appears for starters that the center wheels out too far and when I align I will do all axles of course. When I did the bearings it was in alignment as I checked and re-checked then did a thorough double check job of tightening the locking collars. Is it possible the axles under strain of say the tracks.....can move the wheels slightly, when the front chains are off? What is a good distance of the inside face of the wheel to the tub wall for a baseline start? A strength of the Max II when compared to some others is virtually silent chain operation and I'm determined to get back there. Mine is a 2003 with solid axles and set screw sprockets. The center wheels probably have to come in 3/16" +,then I'll align front and rear. The old Max can be a perplexing beast to work on but it is worth every minute and dime invested!!

[Bazooo guy]

Locking collars can move if the axle is stressed sideways.
If they have setscrews you can drill into the shaft to lock them.

[Eldon]

I think in the course of winter travel in the snow and woods they must have moved slightly I think on the middle one..........I'll re-align it. The sprocket has a set screw and it is in a seat drilled in the solid shaft. I figured the axles moved. Thanks for the reply Bazoo Guy

[ARGOJIM]

Do your axles have the bolts in the ends like the Argo's? If so they should not be able to walk without breaking or loosening of the bolts.

[Eldon]

No they have three bearings on each axle secured by locking collars which tighten then fasten with a set screw though the set screw is not in a seat.

[msafi65]

Ive had the dog point set screws loose the tip and allow the sprocket to wander. It looks like you have been through this already,the chain alignment in a MAX IIis determined from transmission to jackshaft then jackshaft to center axle. Ive also had bearing cage vehicles with popping noises in the axles when bearings were new. The cure was to break the two outboard collars loose and re lock in opposite directions. Dont have a clue what was moving but noise could be felt in frame near the axle.This said you may try setting alignment then lock outers opposite from each other.I know the inner is hard to lock but the 72mm outers can really be set down.A bit of locktite on the set screw cant hurt. Hope you cured it and it stays that way.