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Max IV turning radius

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  • Max IV turning radius

    I noticed my turning radius is not equal. The inner circumference of left hand dougnut measures about 6.5 feet and a right hand turn measures 8.5 feet. The 6.5 feels pretty tight and I don't think I could get better than that. During normal driving it feels fine, but I suspect something is wrong. Facing the T-20, I adjusted the upper left hand plunger and turned the bolt clockwise about 3 full turns. From what I understand, this would have tightened up the brake band. This had no effect. I measured the outer diameter of the tires and they are all equal. Thoughts?

  • #2
    When you turn are you completely braking one side? Are you doing that on both left and right turns?

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    • #3
      Just worked on one that didnt turn properly and found a missing axle tube bolt. one tire was rolling when that side was locked up. Just watch the tires in a locked turn.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by msafi65 View Post
        Just worked on one that didnt turn properly and found a missing axle tube bolt. one tire was rolling when that side was locked up. Just watch the tires in a locked turn.
        Very good observation! A lot of folks might overlook this. It's an easy fix too.
        "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
        sigpic

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        • #5
          Originally posted by msafi65 View Post
          Just worked on one that didnt turn properly and found a missing axle tube bolt. one tire was rolling when that side was locked up. Just watch the tires in a locked turn.
          You guys are good. I found my right rear axle bolt sheared off in the tub. I replaced the grade 3 bolt with a grade 8. Both left and right turns feel pretty tight now.
          But will use of a stronger bolt cause something else to break on the drivetrain? Is use of a grade 3 bolt an intentional fail-safe design?

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          • #6
            Grade 3? or do you mean grade 5? I would use grade 5 bolts they do not snap in half near as easily as a grade 8 will. The grade 5 bolts tend to bend and give a little compared to a grade 8 that will snap because of no give at all. Good luck

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            • #7
              A nifty solution to those broken axle-tube bolts, which you probably already know, is to drill through the tube and axle to add a second bolt at each wheel position. -Suggest you wait to do that when you're already doing serious repairs/mods and have it well dis-assembled. It's not the kind of job you'll be able to do leaning over the edge of the body and using a hand drill.
              Added a second bolt to each wheel on my old MAX IV back in 2010 and haven't had a broken bolt since. (Knock on wood!) Before that, it was a continuing problem, especially on the left rear wheel, which is the most difficult one to reach. (Why is that always the case?)
              Last edited by Wobbly; 06-10-2013, 07:58 PM.

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