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  • left rear chain a pain

    Need to take out a link, on left rear chain but very hard to get to will also probably replace the adjuster while i am in there.thought about removing motor bolts
    , removing belt and scooting motor to the side.. Does not really say in the manual how to do this kind of suff, Iam sure you guys have done it way more than once.

  • #2
    ok first thing is the chain new? if its new and you need to take out a link because its too long that's fine. but you never want to take a link out of a worn chain because at the point the chain as stretched beyond its usable life and continued use will most certainly cause rapid sprocket wear. Nest the easiest way to to play with that rear chain is to simply remove the four bolts holding the rear bench seat it and mess with it in front of the engine not underneath it. Unless of course your talking about the the T20 chain which is just a pain unless the motor is out. But remember do not take a link out of a worn chain the pitch has changed and will ruin your sprockets.
    1996 MAX IV ,KUBOTA DIESEL
    MAX II 30HP Bandolero

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    • #3
      This a tough problem ive been trying to solve.first the chain is not new so thanks for that advice, this is the riddle i can not solve, ive pulled the chain adjuster up as far as it well go, but the bottom of the chain is tight but all the slack is on top, so the adjuster will not bring it out, i thought about taking the chain of and putting the slack on the bottom so it can be adjusted that would solve it. have no idea how it could end up like that ? Thanks for your help .

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      • #4
        Jack up the machine and counter rotate the 2 tires to put slack on the adjuster side and adjust.
        sigpic

        My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
        Joe Camel never does that.

        Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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        • #5
          argo is this a joke lol because no matter which way you rotate them the chain stays the same

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          • #6
            i meant to say the slack should stay the same ?

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            • #7
              No not a joke, I guess what I should have wrote is to rotate the rear tire one way and hold it with your knee and rotate the middle tire the opposite way slack should go to either the top or the bottom, if the slack is not where you want it rotate them the other ways and then adjust the adjuster.
              sigpic

              My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
              Joe Camel never does that.

              Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

              Comment


              • #8



                They say a picture is worth a thousand words so here's a crude drawing that outta be worth a couple hundred.
                sigpic

                My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                Joe Camel never does that.

                Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Snake Stomper: First, let's make sure this is a maxII we are talking about....MaxIV's will be different. A MaxII has the trans driving the center axle, so in forward (99% of driving) the chain from the center axle to the front pulls on the bottom of the sprockets. That is why the adjuster is on the top (slack side).
                  For the rear axle the chain pulls on the top of the sprockets, with the adjuster on the bottom.

                  ALWAYS tension your chains with the wheels off the ground. The left rear tensioner on the MaxII is very hard to access. You could pull the motor like you suggested, but I do it differently. I made a wooden wedge like a doorstop that I force under the adjuster. Once the chain has propper tension I remove the wedge. Because the adjuster is a ratchet type, it tips on it's way to the next adjustment tooth, this only compounds the problem of how hard it is to access. Make sure it has fully seated in it's teeth or it will slip back out and leave the chain loose.

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                  • #10
                    Hey Jim/s, Good chain info!

                    Also, I looked at Snake Stompers other posts.
                    He has a MaxII either a 92 or 93
                    I added him to the Max type thread also.
                    The trouble with retirement is.... I never get a day off !!!!

                    sigpic

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                    • #11
                      sorry though he was working on a max IV
                      1996 MAX IV ,KUBOTA DIESEL
                      MAX II 30HP Bandolero

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                      • #12
                        thanks guys ill give it a try.and let you know how it goes

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                        • #13
                          glad I read this post I was getting ready to take links out of my chains but I think I might just go buy new ones last thing i want to do is replace all my sprockets..there's probably over 400 miles on this set of chains..I bought a brand called usa drive..when they were knew I had to adjust over 5 times..kind of a pain in the buttbut I have to say all the work and maintenance on my max is worth every minute because the fun I have is immeasurable

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                          • #14
                            yea the chains are pricey but i believe iam gonna pick me up a new one,i believe mine are o rings.did you get yours threw RI thats where ill end up getting.

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