Max 4 power

[jacobsrf]

I have a max 4 was used as a hunting rig (Alaska) the unit made it in 30 miles of mud swamps, rivers but did not have enough power in climbing out of deep mud holes. My belt was not burning and the transmission oil did not smell burnt. My question to all you max owners is my transmission bands worn or is this max not rated for hard running with load. We had 1/2 a moose and camping gear coming out. The Argo on tracks did not have problems but had a low range transmission.

I like the max because it's easy to work on and tough as nails. I also was using jwheelz would pull 4 jwheelz had to remove center two would bog down in swamps. My magnum 20 engine did not seem to loose power.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Rollnj

[akranger72]

More horse power would really help you as well as a red spring installed in the driven clutch. I pulled quite a load in and out moose hunting this year with my Max IV and it has the kohler 25hp command with red spring. I had no issues with power but really want to gear it down more. My geared down Max Buffalo has the 23hp kohler command and pulled a heavier load in and seemed to due it with ease due to low gearing. My two cents worth is that the 20hp kohler magnum is not enough power for a loaded Max IV and pulling a trailer unless you could gear it down. I'm working with Mark from 2d Max in Fairbanks to possibly gear down my Max IV beyond having the red spring in it. We also will look at hydraulic brakes. Try a red spring first and then go from there like going to a 13 tooth sprocket on the T-20 output shaft.

[thebuggyman1]

Is your drive belt tight enough? A little extra deflection in the belt will make the primary advance (prematurely) before the secondary.....this gives you the "wrong gear ratio".
Read this: ATV and Snowmobile Belts - by Dayco

I have a MaxIV with a 16 briggs, and was amazed at how well that little motor climbed hills and such......granted, it wasn't loaded w/people, moose, or trailer.
It is equipped with the red spring and belt is tensioned properly (big pain on the IV's). 25% more hp should do quite a bit more pulling, but lower gearing (13t T-20 sprockets) may be a good idea too.

If the bands in the T-20 were the problem, it wouldn't be bogging the motor. The motor would rev fine and the machine would go nowhere....much like a bad clutch in a car.

[Noel Woods]

I think Jim is on the money, my Max4 went thru a similar issue and between a slipping belt and worn out clutch performed terribly compared to a friend's Argo. It was the 20hp Kohler as well, which is plenty torque. Check the belt, then the clutch, then the rear chains, and the problem should be easy to resolve.
Maybe the design will be modified for future machine since Muddox has bought Recreatives.

The red spring on the clutch, and a 13 tooth output on the t20, will make this thing strong as all get out. More hp is always good, but the 20 is more than adequate.

[liflod]

I bought a body shim kit from Harbor Freight to use for adjusting belt tension. Loosen the engine bolts and use a wedge to get the belt tension you want. Slide the shims in and tighten the bolts.

[jacobsrf]

All,

Thanks for the information will get it done. Also a hydraulic brake system would be a improvement.

Rollinj

[jacobsrf]

Akranger72

You mentioned 13 tooth sprockets for t20 can they be bought or do I have to machine them. Machining is no problem have a hobby machine shop did not want to weld sprokets without stress releaving.

Also would like to improve brake set up could get in trouble with the none holding mechanical brakes. You mentioned a dealer in Fairbanks does he handle parts for max 4.

Thanks jacobsrf

[jstout9]

Can anyone tell us how hard it is to change to the 13 tooth sprockets? And anyone who has done it tell us if it is worth doing?

[Noel Woods]

Can anyone tell us how hard it is to change to the 13 tooth sprockets? And anyone who has done it tell us if it is worth doing?

Just package the t20 up and ship it off to Whipper out in Arizona. He is very reasonable and quick.

[jstout9]

I'm kind of a do it myself kinda guy. But Ive never had a t-20 apart that's why I was asking about the difficulty.

[kghills]

Can anyone tell us how hard it is to change to the 13 tooth sprockets? And anyone who has done it tell us if it is worth doing?

It's pretty simple. You might want to consder going to 12 though. Then you can remove one link from your drive chains and the stock adjusters work better. There are pictures in my Max IV gallery I think.

Keith.

[rcn11thacr]

My tracked 2007 max iv has the 27 hp motor with 12 tooth sprockets on the t-20, pulls like a champ and i really like the lower gear it gives. It uses a bit more fuel than i'd like if you are on smooth terrain and (going to and from a location) in the upper rpm of the range. However, crawling around at lower speeds dont seem to show much ofdfference in fuel use. So, short distance isnt an issue but if you do the 12 tooth swap and plan on long distance driving you may consider bringing a few extra gallons of fuel than normal.

[Mike]

The How to Rebuild Skid Steer T20 Transmission article shows you all of the steps to pull apart the T20 which is pretty simple. The more involved part may be replacing the sprockets on the output shafts. Your sprockets may just be pressed on or they can be tack welded as well (removing welded sprocket). Once they are off, you can press the new sprockets on but you may need to freeze the shaft and heat the sprocket before hand to get everything together.