Adondo's Max II

[Adondo]

Got the WWII surplus light Friday, then worked over the dash. Now, it's complete. Replaced that intermittent key switch too.



And, turned on. I can't figure out what the weird reflection is by the volt meter. I probably should've painted the dash panel with flat black instead of the gloss engine paint I had on hand. Oh well.


An edge view to better show the aircraft surplus "push to test" light.


I also drilled the dash and mounted a nifty eBay gimbal type pitch/tilt meter. It was only $6.49. I sawed the mounting base off, then used silicone to mount it.


And, the old "meep meep" horn from my Yamaha road/dirt bike. I'd replaced that with a "real" horn nabbed from my Jeep which was replaced with air horns. I wanted the bike to sound like a large sedan coming at someone, and it worked. (I used it to commute to work for a couple of summers before selling it) The "meep" horn is pretty loud mounted right there in the open.


I finished a piece of 2x2 pine with linseed oil and bolted it to the engine cover with stainless bolts. That now keeps the storage box from migrating around. So, it's ready for the sand dunes. All I need now is some decent weather. Now that it runs great and idles, (Rebuilt carb) I'll have to take it back out into the lagoon again, and get used to being on water. There are sand dunes at Moses Lake which includes sand islands in a huge reservoir and swamp areas. It's about 90 minutes drive away. I'm ready now!!

[Adondo]

DUCT!!

Built a cool air intake duct over the weekend. It works nice too, running around the property, and leaves were sucked up against the outside grill, so it works. Now, hot air exits forcibly from the left side grill because the tub is now getting pressurized. Before, heat would more or less leak out everywhere. So far, I've been out playing in 40 degree temps, so having the engine rehash hot air in the hull hasn't been a problem.

The engine grill removed.


The lower piece sandwiched between the grill and engine shroud. The duct is flat 4x12. I fabricated an end cap from extra tin, and used 1/8" rivets. It looks crappy because I bent the edge by hammering over the edge of the bench. My kingdom for a sheet metal brake.


Upper piece made with length of 4x12 and 90 degree flat elbow. I used rivets everywhere to make it solid. I even used rivets on the snap together seam so it can't rattle apart.


The joint slips together, and in a normal job of running ducts in a house, it would be taped shut forever. In this case, it's held together with springs hooked to stainless steel P-clamps riveted to the duct. That way, it comes out fast and easy for servicing the rig when needed.


Notch cut in the side plastic, and a bungy holding it in place. The bungy hooks to P-clamps bolted in place. The bungy cord and springs allow movement and float of the duct between the engine and hull.


Relocated and redone starter solenoid. The wiring was crappy, the battery cable was more than halfway frayed apart. I had #2 welding cable left from the Jeep winch, so that's a new leader to the starter now. No more Mickey Mouse connections.


The duct against the right side vent grill. It moves a lot of air. The raw edge of the duct is covered with wiring split loom, then duct taped on.

[Adondo]

One more photo. This was a test fit before the springs and bungy. The duct angles up at about 15 degrees toward the Max's side vent. The slip fit of the 90 degree elbow allows the tilting.


Oh yes, the local Les Schwab Tire store has a set of Carlisle AT101's on the way. New skins SOON!

[JoeMeg]

Looking good! Your starter motor will be happier now too.

Joe.

[Adondo]

New tires!! The local Les Schwab's prices amounted to about $15 more than ordering them online, and because I bought from them, no mounting charges. The machine had dry-rotted Goodyear Rawhides that were worn down to nubs.


I consider it 98% finished and ready for the trails/water now. The recently installed LED rear flood and marine nav lights makes it into a completely LED converted ride. All lights on, including the upper light bar that lights everything up front within a half mile takes less power than the original running lights. The small white light in the center is a marine stern light.


The port side marine navigation light.


The wooden rail that keeps the plastic storage locker box from migrating around. That crappy muffler cover is the last 2% of getting my little rebuild done. I'll have the local metal shop make a nice one with 3/16" aluminum diamond plate soon. I'm thinking of having it made with a double layer so the top surface isn't a frying pan. My cool air ducting helps that though, as the heat's blown out the port side vents now. ON EDIT: after looking at photos here and elsewhere on the 'net, I'm thinking someone made this nifty rear engine cover. It's fiberglass, and I'm not sure if it's a kit, or fabricated from something else. It's nice though, as the entire engine and T-20 can be accessed pretty easy.

[mogger]

Thank you Adondo for all of those pictures detailing your work, good stuff. I really appreciate the close-ups too, I could see the manufacturer and model number of the Headlight Ring. I now have some on the way from eBay. Just bought a 1993 Max II and both headlights were knocked out with no rings to be seen. I like those LED headlights you installed and may do the same. Thank You! Mogger