Max ii help

[farmboy]

Hello,

I just bought my used max ii other and i need some help. First thing is that this thing has been redneck-edified. By that i mean it has a new motor that i don't believe is suppose to be welded in. Second thing is that i guess the guy needed to cut some part of the lower haul to get the motor in? is there any way that big of a hole can be fixed. I have been looking at some threads but i don't think they have covered a hole this big. Back to the motor i would like to see a pic of how the original motor was mounted in so i can make a bracket for this motor. now onto the transmission i been doing some research but have not found the right answer i thinking i am going have to rebuild it because the left side is barely working in reverse and going forward, only the right side works. please advise in my situation.

[amphibious drew]

Where see you located. Maybe someone close has some scrap poly you could use to weld the tub back together. The other option is, if you are close to RI in Buffalo, a birdie told me there may be a moving sale going on up there in the next few weeks. I know there are blemished uppers. They may have a lower you could use as well. Additionally, there are a few techumseh engine mounts laying around up there that should be able to be used on a Briggs without much effort. Welcome to the forum and good luck on your build.

[farmboy]

not to be a mr million questions today but how long would the poly last. Is it possible that my lower half is plastic? i am not sure what year my machine is i am just looking for some insight? would it be better to try to get a new haul or fix the old one?

[amphibious drew]

The very first Max II's were abs. Most are hdpe which lasts forever if it's not cut or punctured. Heat will revive the color if it's faded and it brings the material back to life. If you can patch the lower, it would probably be cheaper, but a new tub would look so much nicer. I do not think tubs are shipped though. It is a pick-up only item.

[farmboy]

So with the body out of the way does anybody know anything about the t-20 transmission and why is it acting funny? I know the belts might need adjusted but i am no expert at troubleshooting.

[amphibious drew]

It could be as basic as needing an adjustment and a new diamond shifter. There is a ton of info on the site including manuals and rebuild how to's for the t20. I would start with an adjustment, and if that doesn't work, split it into halves and take a peak inside. A band could be snapped and need replaced. The lining could be worn off and scarred the drums. The pin that holds the bands in place could have been installed in a way where it slipped out of the hole. If an adjustment doesn't solve the problem and the transmission is clearly shifting into gear, the only way to see what's going on is to open it up.

[farmboy]

well here is my situation i took the transmission out to get to cut the weld off of the motor so i can make a bracket for the motor. is there a way i can take the transmission apart without having a reseal kit for the transmission and just look things over and when i was reading threads about adjustment i thought there was something inside the transmission needing adjusted to fix this problem. please set me straight

[farmboy]

one last thing real quick how tight does the belt going from the motor to the transmission have to be when i received this machine it was really loose but tight enough not to come off. i cant find a thread on this

[amphibious drew]

Search for belt deflection. There should be some good reading for you on the threads that mention those terms. I would NEVER split a t20 and not but new gaskets and o-rings in it. I have never had the halve gaskets even come off in one piece. You need at least 2 half gaskets and 4 o-rings handy for the job. Call http://max atvs.com they will get you your parts.

[farmboy]

Thank you everybody i am going try my hand on this build and see what can come up with. I hope this thing will not dime and nickel me to death .

[farmboy]

Well cleaning up my max I found the serial number which is 3793 which means it was made in some time in early 70s which means that it was abs plastic I have a hole that was cut into the hull about one foot to foot and half. I do not thank this is possible to patch. So if anybody is around southern West Virgania with a body please let me know. I really could use one.

[amphibious drew]

I'm not positive, but I think 1969 was the only year for abs. Take a sliver and put it in a jar with acetone. If it melts its abs, if it is unaffected, it's poly.

[farmboy]

I am conducting the test as we speak I hope its poly I have made a gameplan for it if it is. how long in the acetone before I should be able to tell if its plastic or not.

[amphibious drew]

I am conducting the test as we speak I hope its poly I have made a gameplan for it if it is. how long in the acetone before I should be able to tell if its plastic or not.

Poly, also known as hdpe, and abs or both types of plastics. It should soften within a half hour and if you do a scratch test a goo like film will be on the top of whatever you scratched it with. If it's poly, it will just be a cleaner piece of plastic.

[farmboy]

so the test came back that it is poly very good news no I just need to find poly to do some patching. One more question I it seems like the frame is melted into the lower piece can I just heat that up to separate the lower haul and the frame?