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Frustrated as hell!!!!

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  • Frustrated as hell!!!!

    So here it is I just got "everything"put back in my max IV and I think I am finally finished. ..... still a lot of questions because I am still new to this but true ti this the same. .. so I replaced inner and outer bearings both rear axles (mine snapped) and the rear sprockets that are welded into one assembly. Just set the motor and all chains are set correctly. I go online and find the how to section on RR AND SEE THE SNAPRING SPLINED AXLE REPLACEMENT...... DAMN IF THIS DOESN'T LOOK JUST LIKE WHAT MUDD OX SENT me ......
    So why wouldn't they suggested that I needed shimms and snaprings for these new axles ..... WTF I ASKED WAS THIS EVERTHING I NEEDED WHEN I TALKED TO GALAN AT RI I GAVE HIM THE SERIAL NUMBERS OF THE MAX ...... I EVEN EXPLAINED THAT I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE. I AM FRUSTRATED AND 38HOT RIGHT NOW. LABOR IN VEIN AND AFTER JUST GETTING OVER A MAJOR SURGERY IM IN PAIN... NOW WHAT I HAVE TO TAKE THE WHOLE THING APART AGAIN THIS IS B.S ..... WELL ANY SUGGESTION WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANKS FOR HEARING ME OUT .... 6-1-1/2 ....

  • #2
    DO you have to take the whole thing apart again? Your post is not clear on how you DID assemble it. Did your old axles/sprocket tubes have set screws to hold them in place?

    The manufacturer can only sell you the parts, they have no control over how you assemble them.

    Assuming you left the sprockets floating:
    Another option for you is to use split locking collars instead of the snap rings. That way the axles do not have to come back out.

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    • #3
      if you do end up using 2 piece clamping collars on each side of the sprocket, you can get them next day from mcmaster carr co. i think their catalog is online. i just ordered 6 for my max 2. i put them on each side of the sprockets cause the set screws just don't hold good. and they go on easy without removing axle. wish you were closer . i would love to help you. johnboy va. my max has the splined axles.

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      • #4
        Those two piece collars are good suggestions. Back when Jay (previous owner of RI) would sell a new snap ring axle and sprocket, it was shipped assembled with the snap rings and spacers in place. It sounds like the guy shipping parts from Mudd Ox/RI is unfamiliar with the process and is just shipping the individual parts by part number only. I recently ordered T20 seal kits and the center gaskets were not included like they should be (they mailed them promptly when I told them parts were missing). Unfortunately in your case, tennesseemudbug, you didn't know what parts you should have received and therefore assembled it incorrectly. I thought about going to the new Max factory and volunteering my time to help them get accustomed to the disorganized parts process that RI has used for years. But, they are in northern Indiana and not southern Florida, so it sounds like less of a good idea at this time of year... haha.
        Everybody dies, but not everybody lives.

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        • #5
          Last edited by Model Citizen; 07-12-2016, 10:49 PM.

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          • #6
            I thought that the sprockets where supposed to have have a set screw in them because they have a threaded hole in the center of the welded collar that connected to two sprockets together so I went and got a set screw and installed them that way but now I don't know if that will hold them. I guess I could get split locking collars and save some energy and time. I installed everything else correctly I am just concerned about the sprockets migrating and I also seen there is a spacer in the front of the inner bearing on the axle ..I didn't get one of those with the axles either . Do I have to have that or is there any ideas for that as well?

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            • #7
              RI's parts department was totally disorganized because only Jay knew what was going on. There was no real parts diagrams and everything was outdated. I'm sure that is the problem the new parts guys at Mudd Ox are having. I would agree the parts service was great before but it was not organized like a real business. A business that ships parts should have a system in place where anyone can ship the correct part. Try ordering an axle for a 2000 Max IV. Some were turned down on the end to use a 1-1/8" bearing, some were not depending on exactly when it was built and there is no good record of that in any parts manual. Numerous parts are that way. Most of the time you need a customer to describe to you what he has to get him the right part. Therefore someone like myself familiar with the parts department chaos could be of assistance in converting it to a real system. I'm sure Matt has it figured out but getting there will be lots of work. I order parts for Polaris, Honda, and Yamaha daily, each of which has hundreds of model changes over many years. I use a current and accurate parts diagram and order by part number and the parts we receive are never wrong.
              Everybody dies, but not everybody lives.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Tennesseemudbug View Post
                I thought that the sprockets where supposed to have have a set screw in them because they have a threaded hole in the center of the welded collar that connected to two sprockets together so I went and got a set screw and installed them that way but now I don't know if that will hold them. I guess I could get split locking collars and save some energy and time. I installed everything else correctly I am just concerned about the sprockets migrating and I also seen there is a spacer in the front of the inner bearing on the axle ..I didn't get one of those with the axles either . Do I have to have that or is there any ideas for that as well?
                The threaded hole is actually used for a grease zerk now for a snap ring axle. If you used the correct set screw it will probably hold although helping it with the split collars will be a good idea. The zerk or set screw would have been included with the sprocket if anyone had a correct parts list and descriptions. The spacer between the axle and inner bearing allows you to align the chain. It's usually a thick washer and two thin washers. Loosely assemble the axle with spacers and check alignment with the trans sprocket. Adjust it with more or less washers. Again, those washers were always included with a new axle.
                Everybody dies, but not everybody lives.

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                • #9
                  What size locking collar should I order?

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                  • #10
                    Last edited by Model Citizen; 07-12-2016, 10:48 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Last edited by Model Citizen; 07-11-2016, 07:09 PM.

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                      • #12
                        What happens if I don't use the spacer on the axles in between the inner bearing? I have the sprocket lined up with the transmission sprocket and the tires are in line together. This is turning out to be a fng headache ..... what size split locking collars could I get to put on the axles?

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                        • #13
                          What is the outside dimension of the splined shaft ?

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                          • #14
                            1 1/4", same size as the axle. There is a learning curve to doing the stuff yourself. Instead of paying someone, your paying your dues. I personally have taken things apart 3 and 4 times to get it "right." Pulling an axle in and out is no big deal if it is fresh and/or you used enough of the silver stuff on it.
                            l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

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                            • #15
                              Last edited by Model Citizen; 07-12-2016, 10:46 PM.

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