Nubs thank you. I kind of suspect it needs a longer belt. The belt does get all the way down the secondary but does not make it to the top of the primary at all... I'll get some measurments and call roy at quality drive systems.
As for the team clutch i ended up buying it through cart parts plus due to the free shipping they offered so I did not speak to anyone personally about it. ordered it online.
I do have have a tach for my machine so I will get that installed before I start getting to crazy with the governor
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Gotta remember the new drive clutch is larger in dia and needs more belt to get to the top. Did You buy the drive from Team? did they know what type of engine (RPM's) etc You were puttin' it on.
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Ya need to see if the belt is dropping all the way down into the driven clutch at full throttle. if it is then the belt is to short and the engine needs to be pushed back a bit or a longer belt. I see the pullin tractor guys runnin' them stock motors @ 5,800 R's with no issues. A tach is the only way to know where Your at.Leave a comment:
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Well...... i got enough done yesterday to take her for a quick ride. Only have the upper exhaust duct to put on the upper body. But this is buffalo and was 10degrees when I tested it last night so I was not to concerned about heat haha....
Upon first test I realized machine was no faster with no more power than my 18hp motor. Was kind of dissapointed until I realized that it didn't even seem like motor was making any rpms at all. So pulled it back into my shop and turned the governor screw up a hair more and tested again. BAM POWER. night and day difference but still not where I want it..... I have a Tach to put on it within the next few days so I can safely turn it up more. Anyone know a "SAFE" rpm i should set this at?
I drove the machine straight down the road next to my shop, team clutch is super smooth, but almost too smooth it seems.... shifts out kind of slow but would be great for trail riding. Machine still is not getting to the speeds I was hoping for. Was kind of hoping for super fast shift out and let the 25hp motor do all the pulling?!?!
Drove right up to a 10 ft snow bank and with just a little bit of gas the machine drove straight up it no problem almost going over backwards not expecting such response and torque which is a huge gain over the 18hp with stock clutches.
So as of now my only question being....... Any ideas what could be limiting my top speed? not long enough belt? The belt I am using is intended for people using both cvtech clutches for the primary and secondary. which I am not. Belt does not get to the top of the primary even when I rev it in neutral. maybe 3/8" or 1/2" from top of the sheeves. And I hae about 1 1/2" deflection on the belt. Could this be all governor related? When I wound the governor screw in it started idling to high so I had to back it off some just so there was no constant push on the throttle arm. any ideas out there?Leave a comment:
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as of right now I am not going to sell the 18. I am keeping all parts that I took out of the machine as a matched set for future projects. Thank youOriginally posted by ajbowling View PostLeave a comment:
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Well It did fire right up other day but dies immediately from fuel solenoid turning back off as soon as I let go of the starter.... Weird that they are wired together like that. But easy enough to run the wire from the key switch back. No big deal at all.... Didin't make much progress at all this past weekend because I ended up going into work for some overtime. But all I have left to is install air intake and connect throttle cable and add that wire which I may be able to do tonight..... Then I can put the upper body on and take her for a spin. If I have enough time.... Will keep everyone updatedLeave a comment:
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The green wire to the solenoid should only have power when starting, power there any other time would cause starting unless there is a diode.
You can try it but sounds wrong to me, the 7 prong switch would be better with a switched live.Leave a comment:
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My key switch already produces 12v when the key is. bottom middle connection on my key switch i believe. I just think its odd to have that engine like that. So I will try it the way its factory wired and test the fuel solenoid to see if its getting power but without the starter hooked up so I can make sure its all wired correctly. which obviously it should be if it came out of a running driving mower was basically just seeing if anyone had seen this beforeOriginally posted by liflod View PostLeave a comment:
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It would be easier to run another wire and then you know its correct. You will also need to update your ignition switch to give +12v when the key is on.Leave a comment:
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I don't know that engine wiring but I would say if its a factory connection it should be right. stator's produce AC current and the regulator converts it to DC so i'm not sure what that deal is all about.Leave a comment:
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Thanks for flipping the pictures for me Nubs. Didnt know how to post them like that. but she will be running in a couple days. Cant wait to try this team clutch out. Don't know that anyone else has one in one of these machines yet but it fit perfectly. Motor fits the new motor mount plates with no modifying. just going to be doing the exhaust work today and could test fire the machine.
i'll ask again though, My only question as of now is regarding the stock engine harness. It was a 5 wire plug.: the harness has the fuel shut off solenoid wired to the starter wire and also the stator wire? so when turning the starter over will open the fuel solenoid and once the stator starts making power it will keep it open? this make sense to anyone? lol it seems like it would work. then I wouldn't have to run any extra wiresLeave a comment:
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I'm glad to see that drive clutch fits in there, there more money but 10X the clutch.Leave a comment:
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