1970 Max II Restoration...

[Mike]

Nice update. I hope you get it running in time for your fair.

[brunpup]

Well, I didn't get it going in time for my fair, but that was at my own choosing. I decided that since I've taken my time on everything else so I didn't half ass anything, and thought it all out, I didn't want to rush the biggest part of it with the engine install and exhaust building, because knowing my luck that would lead to a catastrophe.. I finished up my front blinker install, just like the rear mounts, I have them on sheet metal brackets going to body bolts.. Grounded through the headlights ground screw, with the wiring going past the headlight grommets. Full LED lighting, including LED 1157 bulbs in the rear housings. Now I just have to figure out exactly where I want to mount the brake light switch on the e-brake system, and it should be completed. Anyways, I got my engine mount all welded up, and painted the same color that I put the frame back to, which is as close I could come up with to the factory frame color. I had to trim the cargo area a little to clear the top of my engine, but I figured I would have to do that anyways. I have to pull back out the transmission, or suck the fluid out of it in place, because it turns out the bulk jug I grabbed from our farm wasn't actually HyTran like I thought it was..

Here is the mount that I made up for the engine.. It's inch by inch angle iron, with 1.5 inch by 1/4 inch crosspieces, and a 1/4 inch plate welded to that. I made the slots in the angle for belt tension adjustments, and the holes in the plate are for clutch alignment adjusting.



Here's the last look at the empty engine bay before I put in that nice hefty Honda GX610.. After all the test fitments that I did with that engine, I'm really glad to not have to lift it in and out again. That engine gets heavy after lifting it half a dozen times in one night.. The little bit of rust color on the frame rails is simply from the bare unpainted angle iron sitting on the frame rails for a while before I finished the mount..


Here the engine is in place, and it looks good in there.. I had the air cleaner of the engine because I was trying to figure out how to run the fuel line into the engine.. Sorry for the crappy angles on these pictures, but it was about 3 A.M. and I was tired but felt so accomplished I wanted to get it documented.. On the frame side of the mount, I just stuck with the 5/16" bolts that the factory used, and on the engine side of it, I used 7/16" bolts..


Again, crappy angle for the picture, but oh well.. As you can see, I still need to get all of the exhaust made and routed, and make the heat shields for it, but I'm currently working on that.. I'm simply making a header out of exhaust tubing I bought at Auto Zone, and going to a piece of flex tubing, then out of the tub over the rear wheel like the early machines did.. The engine is a little closer to the T20 than I thought it would be, but theres still 3/4 of an inch or so, so I think I'll be alright.



Here is how much I had to trim my body to get the top to go all the way down.. I ended up trimming it just a little bit more, but not all the way to where the sharpie marks are.. I plan on probably just making an expanded steel cage to go over it, so it has the ability to pull air through that hole, and I figure that should help the air cleaner pull in cooler air than it would if it was sucking more from the engine bay area..


Here's a shot of it with the wheels I bought for 50 bucks on it.. I hadn't put on the middle set yet, but that gives a good look at the adapters I had a buddy make at his fab shop.. The adapters are red loc-tited on, and the wheels are anti-seized on, just like everything else that I think I may have to take back apart on it.. Being a mechanic by trade, anti-seize is my best friend when I go back together with most anything.. I'm still working on repainting the upper half, and I've since painted the rims white.. I found decent looking tires for a good price at Sears, and figure I'll give them a try, they're a chevron style tire, with knobs on the outside of the tire.. Best part to me is they're only 46 dollars a piece..


Here's a decent picture showing the way that the taillights are mounted.. And showing the ground clearance that I have. I wasn't expecting it to set that high off the ground honestly. Forgive the pictures being turned all sorts of different directions also please, as I can't figure out how to make them be upright properly..



Well, that pretty well covers my update for now, other than I don't have pictures of my front blinkers, but those will come with the next update, once I have the entire system wired up, and have it good to go..

[john swenson]

great rebuild job, i know how much time and thought it takes. you will have a nice max !! johnboy va.

[Mike]

Looking good. When I was looking at your picture of the cutout you made for the engine, it looks like you may be able to retrofit a second-generation engine cover in there for a factory-finished look if you wanted to. Here is a photo of the hole on the 2nd generation body from the gallery:


There are two slots closer to the driver's side edge of the tub. The cover just slides in there and then uses the rubber fasteners to secure it. Here is a picture of the cover:

[brunpup]

Well, I finally got to experience my first 6x6 today.. I got the header all welded up, and though it may not be the prettiest, I think its good enough for what I had to work with.. At this time, I'm just running the original two stroke muffler, and it actually doesn't seem to choke up the Honda at all, so I may just continue using it. Time will tell as far as that is concerned.. I still only have 4 wheels on it, and don't have the seats reupholstered yet, so they're still unmounted at this time.. Also, I forgot until tonight to order a new throttle cable for it, so for my test drive I simply ran a wire through my engine access opening. I just couldn't resist trying it out for the first time ever.. I have to say, all the hype that I've read on here about these things being more fun than a four wheeler is most definitely true. In the couple little 5-10 minute runs that I made with it, I've already had more fun in it than I ever have on a four wheeler. Of course, I still have a few bugs to work out, and things to finalize, but I can manage that stuff pretty easily.. One big thing, is if I can get some decent pictures of how anyone has ran air ducting to the engine, that would be great.. I have my original two stroke hot air ducting still, but it doesn't fit up to the new engine, and I'm trying my best to not hack up any of the two stroke stuff so that if I ever decide to go back to that engine, then I can.. Anyways, I'd like to give a huge shoutout to all of you guys that have helped with any advice or hints during my build so far, and especially a shoutout to the guys that helped me with this build by selling me the few big things that I needed for this, thanks Nubs for the Honda wiring and regulator, and thanks to jpswift1 for the Comet clutch.. Now to get new tires purchased, finish up painting it, and see if I can find a decent chrome rollbar for it.. Then time to have fun with this thing..

[Mike]

Congratulations on getting to test your Max out. I'm sure that only motivates you more to get it done.

[brunpup]

That's for sure... Got my universal throttle cable that I got on eBay in the mail today... Driving it is even more fun with the throttle easily controlled.. Been working out little bugs and stuff on it.. Retightened all the chains as expected, and been enjoying it. Even with leaving the factory 2 stroke spring in the driven clutch, it's still got a lot of torque.. Buut I had my first breakdown tonight.. Turns out that when I put the axles back in, I forgot to tighten back down a few of the lock collars... Had the right rear axle start coming out, causing the chain to break going to it.. Luckily, it didn't fully slide off of the inner bushing, and I didn't tear too much up.. When I replaced all of the chain, I made sure to make an extra spare, so no big deal.. I'll just have to go buy some more chain next trip out of town I make..

[JoeMeg]

Hi,I don't own any R.I. machines but I think that wing of the asylum uses these split collars to keep the axles from floating in and out.

McMaster-Carr

Those eccentric collars on the bearings,in my opinion,are not very good at locking the shaft down. I'm still very challenged by the search function but if you use it,there's info on how it's being done on this site.

[brunpup]

JoeMeg, thanks for the reply.. I got the axle locked down before I posted the update, as I've dealt with these locking collars before on different things.. It was simply one of those things I overlooked when I was putting everything together, and forgot to do... Just proof to myself that one always needs to look over everything before finalizing that portion of assembly.. Normally I don't overlook parts of assembly, but I probably got interrupted while I was putting that axle in.. Oh well, no major harm done, and at least it gave me a reason to relook at all my axles and make sure all was well still..

[6x6 Bryan]

Looks good, I am doing the same. Do you have a picture or diagram on how the sprockets/chains are laid out? I took mine apart 4 years ago and have forgotten

[brunpup]

6x6 Bryan, I sure can get you some pictures... Tomorrow I'll take some in the daylight.. Not sure if you're looking for any in specific, so I'll just do my best at taking pictures of all chains... I don't know if there is any differences between the old hollow axles like mine, versus the newer ones as far as sprocket and chain layout, but it should give you a basic idea of how they're laid out.. I only had my axles out for about 5 months an I still had forgotten how they went back in.. Had to stare at it for quite a few hours to figure it out..