What brand are those tracks?
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2003 Max IV resurection
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Originally posted by philipatmaxfour View PostThanks for the movie in the water. I really appreciate that. i hope Liam catches the first fish.
Originally posted by trevorakm1 View PostWhat brand are those tracks?Originally posted by jpswift1 View PostThey look like late model factory Recreatives Max tracks.
These particular tracks came out of a bankrupt gold exploration outfit in Papua New Guinea, I picked the tracks and 6 tires with rims up for $1,000 and it only cost me $75 in shipping lol. It was too good of a deal to pass up even though they would not fit the Argo Vanguard I had. I bought the tracks with plans on modifying them to work on my Argo. Before I got started on that project I decided to try and find a used max IV for sale, Philipmax responded to my ad and here we are today
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Originally posted by Canadian_Zuk View PostNo thank you Warren, if you hadn't have responded to my want to buy ad, we would not be having this much fun right now. Liam loves his "Argos" lol... if it has more than 4 tyres it's an Argo to him haha.
JP got it right. They are factory rubber tracks. They are modified Camoplast skidoo tracks with very nice cast aluminum track guides riveted on. My only gripe is they are continuous loop, there is no joint which makes installing them very difficult. There is a better picture of the tracks on the first page in post 4 of this thread.
These particular tracks came out of a bankrupt gold exploration outfit in Papua New Guinea, I picked the tracks and 6 tires with rims up for $1,000 and it only cost me $75 in shipping lol. It was too good of a deal to pass up even though they would not fit the Argo Vanguard I had. I bought the tracks with plans on modifying them to work on my Argo. Before I got started on that project I decided to try and find a used max IV for sale, Philipmax responded to my ad and here we are today
That's a great deal on those tires and tracks! Wow! And that's a cool story behind them too. Camoplast made the tracks for Recreatives and I must say, they work very well. MaxIVMark had them on his Max IV and that thing will go pretty much anywhere you point it."Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
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A buddy and I headded out this morning to do a little calling and enjoy what was supposed to be a nice day. The weather was great and the views were even better. Lots of wildlife around us, just puttting along a ridge at the farm were hunting and then BLAM! A good day turned to complete crap lol.
Snap!
I was cruising along doing maybe 15 MPH when it happened and when it broke that whole side bucked up in the air. I'm not sure why it broke, it was just a flat stretch of field, we had been in challenging terrain earlier without breaking a sweat or 3000rpm. We tossed the track on the roof and I had my friend stand on the opposite corner for the trip back to the truck to help with balance. We made it back in pretty good time and only lightly rubbed the ground twice.
I guess I'll be ordering at least 1 new axle, some bearings, flanges and other odds and ends tomorrow. Really wish they had someone in Canada to order parts from.
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Might as well order some bearing cages for all six axels or its liable to happen again. At least put them on the front and back. It's crucial to have that extra support when running tracks. The third bearing supports the axel all the way out to the hub. Hope this helps.What it lacks in ground clearance it makes up for with traction.
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New parts arrived, I ended up with a new "C-clip" style axle. Man, it took me a lot longer to figure out how this goes together than it should have. I ended up having to flip both my sproket and brake rotor around opposite to how they had been installed originally. If I had reinstalled everything as it came out, both the brake rotor and sproket would only be in contact with one C-clip each. I now assume what most people are doing is adding solid spacers between the rotor and sproket or between the bearings somewhere (hindsight). I just couldn't get anything to line up without flipping them. I also had to surface the hubs a few thou to provide enough clearance for the C-clip to firmly seat in the relief. Luckily the brake caliper mounting holes are slotted sufficently to accomodate the move on the rotor. My other "issue" was trying to get the second snap ring on after the sproket and rotor were installed, there isn't much room down there and I was having no luck with the 90deg tips(kept slipping out). I was able to position the axle in a way that allowed me to use the straight tips but this made it more difficut to get the assembled axle back into the inner brearing lol. 6 hours to replace a broken axle. ugh.
I don't plan on doing this very often so bearing cages are definately a must.
to get the inner snap ring on I held the axle in this position from the outside with my boot
This gave me the room I needed to install the C-clip usintg the straight tips while applying downward pressure.
New axle, bearings, bearing flanges, gaskets and strip caulk installed and ready to go again.
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Those rubber tracks are notorious for destroying the front axles, chains, & sprockets. You'll have a much better set up now, but when running the rubber tracks always remove the front chains.
Look at the upside, it was probably time for some major service anyway. I'm glad you had a friend to help with the balancing act to limp the machine home.
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Well I managed to break another axle so I'm finally making some bearing cages. I'll keep all my failures and solutions in this thread I guess.
I really wanted to make these from UHMW but my hands are tied at the moment so I'll have to use what I have available to me. I went with 5" seamless 3/16" mechanical tube cut 4" long with bearing flanges welded to either end. Simple but proven method, I'll paint them prior to installing.
They will be grease filled and both bearings will get their lube from within the cage.
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