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Looking for power at the ground with max 4

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  • Looking for power at the ground with max 4

    I'm new to this so please bare with me. I purchased a 2000 max 4, serial nu 16660. I have to fix the right side shift linkage but I did drive it and manually moved the linkage for the test drive, everything worked well. Now I am trying to do whatever is needed to have the machine set up for phragmitis removal. I drove a 8 wheel tracked 2010 Argo with a 18 hp motor and it did excellent. I bought the max after reading this forum for 40 hrs strait. I thought it fits my needs. So I'm asking for advise on the best way to get the torque to the wheels or tracks without breaking everything. I have no need for speed. (If I read other posts right that means use the red spring.) I am typically never in water over 8". I have removed the rear seat for my spray equipment. I do see posts about the environmental concerns so I wanted to let you know I am well aware of them. This is for removing a evasive species of reed cane. I'm rambling so I apologize, any info will help thanks again. ( ps: this is my first aatv) most of the time we're using mud motors.

  • #2
    Install the Red Spring in the secondary clutch. Or install a larger engine.
    My Max IV has a Red Spring with a 25 HP Kohler. Power is awesome.
    Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes, Rusty-Gunn is right on with the remark, the red spring clutch changes the power transmittal dramatically with much more low end grunt. If you have a smaller engine 18-20 hp, you will have plenty of torque for your purposes. The bigger motors 23-29hp are just brutes, especially with the red spring.

      If this is your first machine, you are much better off than many of us were when we started, plus there is a ton of experience from members of this forum, along with technical expertise, that just wasn't available when most of us got into the hobby.

      I hope you enjoy the Max4.

      Comment


      • #4
        I only wish there was a forum like this 25 years ago when I started my business their is a world of knowledge her, it's just figuring out how to use it. Thanks for the replies. I'm also interested in tracks and have read a lot of different things, I would like to keep it simple but strong, any opinions are welcome. Do I need to add the heavier duty axles? If I'm adding the extensions should I reinforce them while I'm doing the bearings too? I'm not using the machine at high speed, 10 mph at most, so should I make the axles come out further than the tub to accept a larger track? I am lucky enough to have a shop mechanic who does all our welding and equipment work, but when I brought this to him he said "O no way" to many chains sprockets and everything else I'm out of my league here. I told him that's why we call it a project. I have an idea of what I need I'm just not shure how to do it so all help is appriciated. As we say NOTHING JUSTIFIES AN ATTEMPT BUT A FALURE so we're going to attempt. Thanks again I can't say enough good about this forum neat stuff.

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        • #5
          Adding the stock 15 inch track the machine will resemble this

          Adair tracks will look like this ( depending on model), note the bearing cages in the picture
          sigpic

          My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
          Joe Camel never does that.

          Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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          • #6
            The Adair tracks look like they would do better at grabbing reeds and mud. Once I figure out how to post pictures I will show what I'm driving threw. Would it be better to build the tire width wider and buy a wider track. My worry would be supporting the axle 1 foot out from the machine. I also thought they were plastic which I think when they get wet they just spin.

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            • #7
              I've run rubber, plastic and Adair tracks in mud and brush extensively. The Adair tracks with 2" offset wheels are real hard to beat. Your vehicle has some of the best axles available. Do you have the 26 inch tires now? If you do you must have room to slide a 3/4" piece of material easily between the top of the tires and the body to have good clearance. I usually install the 21" tires with the Adair tracks just to get body clearance. The body can be modified if necessary but can be a lot of work. The addition of tracks is very impressive after running tires. To stop the grass from winding up on the axles split a piece of 1 1/4"
              Plastic pipe and install on the axles with electrical tape. I did this on one tracked vehicle last year and no grass on the axles again.

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              • #8
                That is great knowledge, I'm not only going to put the pvc on the max, tomorrow we're going to put them on some of the tractor axles. The only difference is I'm going to tell everyone I thought of it. Ha ha ha. I believe the max has 21 inch tires but not shur I'll know that tomorrow also. If you guys get time look in the tire and track section I posted there also about some concerns I've been reading on the adairs not going up a wet ramp. I can't thank you enough for the info

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                • #9
                  I have spent most of my track time on rubber tracks and have to remember not to oversteer adairs on pavement and in my shop. They are slick on hard rock or pavement. I've seen several ways to add traction, from ice screws to adairs own ice cleat mounted between the grousers.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Delduck View Post
                    The Adair tracks look like they would do better at grabbing reeds and mud. Once I figure out how to post pictures I will show what I'm driving threw. Would it be better to build the tire width wider and buy a wider track. My worry would be supporting the axle 1 foot out from the machine. I also thought they were plastic which I think when they get wet they just spin.
                    The current style factory rubber tracks for the Max IV are much much more aggressive than the rubber waffle tracks shown in that picture. That said, the Adair tracks would probably still be my 1st choice.

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                    • #11
                      I have experience with the Adair tracks, and the factory rubber tracks only, my opinion is that the rubber tracks perform best for snow conditions, and will not swim...period. The Adairs swim, are awesome in the swamp, and with the addition of cleats, do well in snow and ice too. I don't have any experience with Chanel Tracks so can't comment on them or the aftermarket plastic waffle tracks.
                      My experience is that when you make the machine wider, you may achieve your immediate objective for additional traction, but that width does present problems when you get in tighter terrain. Also that old adage: Keep it simple stupid (K.I.S.S.) really applies as every time I've made something heavier duty, there is a trade off on additional wear and tear, maintenance, and performance.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Noel Woods View Post
                        I have experience with the Adair tracks, and the factory rubber tracks only, my opinion is that the rubber tracks perform best for snow conditions, and will not swim...period. The Adairs swim, are awesome in the swamp, and with the addition of cleats, do well in snow and ice too. I don't have any experience with Chanel Tracks so can't comment on them or the aftermarket plastic waffle tracks.
                        My experience is that when you make the machine wider, you may achieve your immediate objective for additional traction, but that width does present problems when you get in tighter terrain. Also that old adage: Keep it simple stupid (K.I.S.S.) really applies as every time I've made something heavier duty, there is a trade off on additional wear and tear, maintenance, and performance.
                        I've only had the plastic segment tracks on my Argo the factory rubber tracks on my Max. Since mounting the rubber tracks I have found myself flaoting pretty much dead in the water on a couple of occasions. If I put the machine in reverse and keep it WOT it will move forward VERY slowly from the watter carried around the track and dump out the back. This doesn't really help becasue as soon as you reach traction you're pushed back into the water and there is no momentum to take advantage of. To avoid wet feet I keep a short paddle under the front bench and I'm going to pick up or make a telecoping push pole before my next outing.

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                        • #13
                          [QUOTE=msafi65;197739]. To stop the grass from winding up on the axles split a piece of 1 1/4"
                          Plastic pipe and install on the axles with electrical tape.

                          I like this idea!
                          sigpic

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                          • #14
                            Regarding paddles... We bungy a long wooden paddle on the left side of our Max IV. Off the way until its needed.
                            To hold the paddle I installed a few eye-bolts that the bungy cords hook into.
                            Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              [QUOTE=JoeMeg;197769]
                              Originally posted by msafi65 View Post
                              . To stop the grass from winding up on the axles split a piece of 1 1/4"
                              Plastic pipe and install on the axles with electrical tape.

                              I like this idea!
                              I like it also!

                              Comment

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