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  • One Thing and Then Another

    I don't know if it is gas issues, or carb issues or fuel pump, but every time I repair something, or have it repaired in this case, it runs great and a week later runs great then craps out. I have a 1999 Max IV and a 2002 Max II. I have replaced the fuel lines, rebuilt the carbs, and replaced the solenoids. The machines will run great at the mechanics, and then when I get it back to my property, something doesn't work right.

    Now to get from the mechanic to my property is a 30 min pavement drive and a 15 minute drive on a dirt road. Once we get to the property, either machine might run fine, but after 15-30 minutes of driving in pig rut infested property the machine will die. If I loosen the choke cable and mess with that, I can get it started and running just fine, but after another 15 minutes of rough riding, I have to do this again.

    I hate the fact that I can't, and don't feel comfortable being able to just hop into the machine and drive away. For instance, I had the Max II running great at night. I was driving all over camp tearing up the place having a great time. I parked it under the canopy, and got it ready for hunting in the morning (opening weekend of bow season). At 6:00am I go out and it won't even begin to start. If I had unpacked the back end, opened up the cover and messed with the choke cable, I could have gotten it started, but it was dark, and I needed to get to my tree stand.

    What am I missing? This can't be a regular thing for these engines (Max II Vanguard 16, Max IV Vanguard 18), can they. I thought they were pretty bullet proof engines. I am really getting sick of being the guy at camp with machines that I never know will run or not.

    I appreciate any advice. I know there is nothing I can do about the field mice eating the gas line, but any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Judson

  • #2
    Maybe flush the gas tank out really good, as in pull it and dump it out. Refill a few times and dump again.
    Other than that idk what is up. But I have seen sediment and impurities in the fuel cause erratics like this. Plugs are another thing.
    Does it seem to act up only when it's working hard?
    Try to find the pattern of failure.
    sigpic

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    • #3
      If messing with the choke cable seems to straighten things out for a while, then there's a clue. What exactly do you do when you mess with the choke cable?

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      • #4
        That is a good idea, as I do see sediment floating around. I just figured it would be easier to let the fuel filter catch those and then replace the filter, especially on the IV as that tank looks like a pain in the ass to deal with. The II I could get that done relatively quickly. Although it won't be until November until I can get to it.

        Thanks

        Judson

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        • #5
          For the choke cable, I unscrew the anchor point on the engine, and move the whole thing either in or out a little to open or close the choke. That is it. I do this on the II, the IV I've not had to do this with because I haven't had it. It's most recent problem was a fuel line leak in the wall. I'm guessing a field mouse got in there and decided he try some of the hose.

          Does that answer your question, Dobber?


          Judson

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          • #6
            I removed my Max 4 fuel tank and cleaned it out. It was not hard and made a difference in how it runs. There is crap in it you can't see till you start washing it out. If you have 2 machines that are acting up I'd look at the quality of fuel I'm using.

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            • #7
              Copy that Dozer. It looks like I have more projects when I get up to my property for hunting in November.

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              • #8
                Good luck with it my friend. You'll get it straightened out but the gas issue has been a continuing problem with me. I think I'm going to try 100 octane avgas and see what happens then.

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                • #9
                  For the choke cable, I unscrew the anchor point on the engine, and move the whole thing either in or out a little to open or close the choke
                  Yes, that answers my question. Just make sure you set the cable in the right position so that the choke butterfly is wide open when the choke knob is fully in the unchoked position. Otherwise, you may be unknowingly running a choked engine. BUT....the fuel tank trash sounds like the likely culprit.

                  Good luck.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks Dobber, that is awesome to know. I think I need new choke cables for both machines as they are very hard to move.

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                    • #11
                      You can squirt oil down the cables, one drop at a time even. It will easy-up a rusty cable.
                      Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks Rusty, I wish I'd read your post BEFORE I ordered two new cables. This is certainly a learning opportunity.

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                        • #13
                          Have you cleaned the fuel inlet on the carb? A lot of the vanguards I get in will corrode in there.
                          Meep Meep

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                          • #14
                            Hey Garrett,

                            I rebuilt both carbs, and did get a lot of gunk out of them.

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                            • #15
                              I had a similar problem with my 1996 MAX II when I first got it. Problems starting, engine running weird, and just cutting out were hints. I found a link to a Vanguard engine carburetor cleaning process complete with detailed photos. I followed that completely. Then I emptied and flushed the tank, replaced the fuel line, added a fuel cut-off valve, replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. I now use only non-ethanol fuel, as the ethanol attacks rubber. I learned that around aircraft. Since that time, I have not had any engine running problems. It was like a brand new engine had been installed!

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