Track tightness

[Madtrapper]

I have a 2008 950 t with the Kawasaki engine and a set of tracks. I have tubes in my tires and I keep ripping of the valve stems so have decided to try tubeless tires any one having the same problem or any suggestions. This is my first 6x6. Thanks

[msafi65]

I assume the tires are Goodyear rawhide 21-11-8. Tubes will not work well in most skid steer applications. The stems tear out as you mention from the tubes squirming arround the tires at low pressure. Go tubless with at least 12 oz. of some flat preventive sealer in each tire. I have switched to a Texas Refining Corp product that is pink and has proven very good at stoping bead leaks.
With the Goodyear tires run 6-7 psi in all tires and monitor closely. If the vehicle sits for an extended period check tire pressure. Low tire pressure can cause a track to come off and -or ruin tires. If you happen to have the Carlisle At101 tires run 10 psi to keep tracks on. Another thing for track vehicles is try to keep a flat footprint for both tracks. Traveling a heavily rutted trail with a high center can force tracks to ride up on the tires. Cross back and forth as possible to allow tracks to stay seated on the tires.
Just to let you know the 27 horse MAX IV is one of my favorites. Enjoy it

[hipowerone]

msafl65 makes a good point, regarding skid steers and tubed tires. While increasing tire pressure will reduce the tubes from some squirming, going tubeless is the only solution. As madtrapper already has the track set up and, I assume, good wheels, going to new tubeless tires, while pricey, is the only solution. However, in my case, with a much older machine, old wheels do not seem to be as conducive to tubeless tires as one might think. The beads have years of wear that affect the bead seal. I would like to get tracks for my MAX II, but to do so will mean not only buying new 21-11.00-8 tires, it will also mean new wheels. Add that cost to tracks and bearing offsets and I am forced to do some serious thinking.

[Canadian_Zuk]

msafl65 makes a good point, regarding skid steers and tubed tires. While increasing tire pressure will reduce the tubes from some squirming, going tubeless is the only solution. As madtrapper already has the track set up and, I assume, good wheels, going to new tubeless tires, while pricey, is the only solution. However, in my case, with a much older machine, old wheels do not seem to be as conducive to tubeless tires as one might think. The beads have years of wear that affect the bead seal. I would like to get tracks for my MAX II, but to do so will mean not only buying new 21-11.00-8 tires, it will also mean new wheels. Add that cost to tracks and bearing offsets and I am forced to do some serious thinking.

Your wheels should not need to be replaced, an hour with a wire wheel and a few coat of enamel paint will restore them to perfectly serviceable condition unless they have holes rusted right through. Any major pits or rust can be smoothed out with a skim coat of JB weld and sanded smooth before painting if you want them to be perfect. Another option is to simply apply a bead sealant when you install new tires.

[Madtrapper]

Thanks for the replies guys. I have purchased 4 new Carsile tires and I am going to install them on all 4 corners and then put two Goodyear's in the middle. I can attest it's not fun changing tires and taking tracks off and on in the bush did it 4 times in two days moose hunting in Saskatchewan. How much slack should I have on the bottom of the track when my Max is suspended off the ground?

[Canadian_Zuk]

Typically you want 2-3" of sag under the middle tire with your tires at operating pressure.

[msafi65]

With the carlisles on the corners run 10 psi. You will probably see 1-2" sag under center tire. Owners manual used to say 3-5psi and my tracks would walk off easily at that pressure.

[Deedeelin1]

B

[Buzz]

yep, tubed tires can have valve stem issues. They work well for wheels that are not driven (wheels on meat trailer, or wheels attached to a track-tuner), but not recommended for wheels that drive.
You shouldn't need more than 5-7 psi to keep a track on. If you do, there are track set-up issues. Some tires on 12" rims are rated for much higher pressures, but many tires on 8 and 9" rims are not.

[Madtrapper]

Well got my tire issue solved with the Carsile tires. Am running 8 psi in all tubeless tires an have 2" slack on my tracks

[Noel Woods]

Over the years I've sheared many valve stems off tires with tubes. They tend to roll within the wheel and the guillotine effect kicks in. All my tires are tubeless, even on the machines that don't have tracks. I even lost valve stems with high quality bead sealant and 10psi inflation pressures, and on one set of wheels took the time to attach my own bead locks to the wheels. While the sealant and beadlocks really cut down on the problem, it didn't eliminate the issue. There is nothing worse than losing a valve stem in the boonies, accept of course losing an axle, bearing, throttle cable, etc., all of which have happened to me and the folks I ride with.

[tbone9]

Noel, you should try the flush mount valve stems. I went to them on my Max with tracks to eliminate the chance of ice or anything else shearing a stem off.

[Noel Woods]

Noel, you should try the flush mount valve stems. I went to them on my Max with tracks to eliminate the chance of ice or anything else shearing a stem off.

You are correct about the flush mounts, I have a set on my Argo Frontier 8x8. I still think there is a possibility of shear if the tires have tubes.

[Madtrapper]

I sheared off 8 tubes finally went tubeless and welded on stem guards on my Max iv and have had zero trouble since.