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Building a cloth top and storage for Max IV

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  • #16
    That turned out great! You did a fantastic job.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Canadian_Zuk View Post
      That turned out great! You did a fantastic job.
      No kidding. Nice work. What is your windshield made out of?

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      • #18
        Thanks again guys.
        Mike, The windshield is .030 Strataglass, it's 2 sheets of vinyl pressed together than polished and treated with a scratch resistant coating. I've used it for rear and side windows on some of the offroad tube buggy's I've built, the last buggy has several thousand miles on it and 6 years of age and its still better than the fabric store vinyl.It's like looking through a piece of lexan or glass. This is the first time I've used it for a windshield. The first time I used run of the mill vinyl for a temporary windshield, within 10 min. up the trail we were getting a headache.
        The top will only be used when its raining, don't plan on running it all the time. Everything on on the Max has to fit in and stay with it when it's stored for the year. I had to get rid of the factory roll cage, window and rear rack because they stuck up to high to fit where I store it.
        I ran it around the house for about an hour yesterday, I think the windshield will be fine.



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        • #19
          It looks even better out in the snow.

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          • #20
            Very nice job,
            How do you like the Argo tires on the Max? How do you like the Ride?
            sigpic

            My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
            Joe Camel never does that.

            Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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            • #21
              Fantastic Job!

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              • #22
                Originally posted by ARGOJIM View Post
                Very nice job,
                How do you like the Argo tires on the Max? How do you like the Ride?
                There like riding on a pillow! I had the 26x12x12 tru-power's and if I lowered the pressure to 1 psi or less the ride wasn't to bad but when I went over a rock or log the tire was on the rim. I was afraid of cutting a sidewall.
                With the 9" rim and 1.5 psi in the argo's it doesn't touch the rim. I've only tried 1.5 and 3 psi in the tires so far. Side by side with no load on the tires I only lost about 1/2" in height from the tru-powers and 7lbs lighter.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Hideous 4x4 View Post
                  There like riding on a pillow! I had the 26x12x12 tru-power's and if I lowered the pressure to 1 psi or less the ride wasn't to bad but when I went over a rock or log the tire was on the rim. I was afraid of cutting a sidewall.
                  With the 9" rim and 1.5 psi in the argo's it doesn't touch the rim. I've only tried 1.5 and 3 psi in the tires so far. Side by side with no load on the tires I only lost about 1/2" in height from the tru-powers and 7lbs lighter.
                  Thanks I've been thinking about them on the Buffalo. Had the 21's which we all know are terrible, the 26's you've explained pretty well and the 25 Rawhide 3's on it, it currently has the 25's on it which ride decent though I've never liked the rebound (no rebounce) from them.
                  Not sure whether I'll try the 24's or 25's but one of the Argo tires will probably end up on it (unless I start winning some races).
                  sigpic

                  My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                  Joe Camel never does that.

                  Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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                  • #24
                    Got the rear rack finished. I wound up using a leftover shelf from our root cellar. I shortened it to 41" and rounded the corners, welded strap iron to the bottom to mount the uprights. It's just under 12 lbs and can support my weight when I stand on the rails not that I plan on putting that much on it.





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                    • #25
                      Finished the rain cover for the engine compartment. It fasten's to the bottom of the rack and has clearance all around for air movement. It hangs out the back enough so rain won't drip in ( I hope ).



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                      • #26
                        I riveted some anchors for a strap to the side of the engine compartment, thought it would be a great place to carry tools.



                        Cleaned up the battery connections and installed an anderson connector for a quick disconnect. I had 2 wires on the negative side and 3 on the positive, moved those to the downstream side of the connector. Put a locking wing nut on the hold down clamp also. Now when we get to the storage place, I can have the battery in and ready to go in seconds with no tools. I'm tossing the idea of putting in a bulb squeeze primer (the kind outboard motors use) right before the fuel shutoff. When we put it in storage for the year, I will shut off the fuel and let it run out of gas then pull the battery to keep charged over the winter. With the primer I can get fuel to the pump faster.



                        I still need to make a storage cover for it. I was thinking of using 18oz vinyl coated polyester, like the over the road trailers use. It's very tough just not sure how it will hold up to the cold temps. Anybody have any ideas?

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                        • #27
                          The bulb primer is a great back up system, I have a 1971 Land Rover series 2A, and installed a bulb because the mechanical pump was sometimes iffy if not used for a few weeks, but a couple pumps on the bulb and she always starts. My other machine is a Bobcat skidsteer. Usually no prime is needed except when you switch out fuel filters and it takes about 15 pumps to prime up. Years ago I also had a bulb in a Max4 but switched it out for a $20 amazon electric fuel pump and its still working.

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                          • #28
                            Looks like you've put a lot of time and thought into these mods. Nice work!
                            What it lacks in ground clearance it makes up for with traction.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Noel Woods View Post
                              The bulb primer is a great back up system, I have a 1971 Land Rover series 2A, and installed a bulb because the mechanical pump was sometimes iffy if not used for a few weeks, but a couple pumps on the bulb and she always starts. My other machine is a Bobcat skidsteer. Usually no prime is needed except when you switch out fuel filters and it takes about 15 pumps to prime up. Years ago I also had a bulb in a Max4 but switched it out for a $20 amazon electric fuel pump and its still working.
                              That's what I wanted to hear! Thanks for the info.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by tbone9 View Post
                                Looks like you've put a lot of time and thought into these mods. Nice work!

                                Thanks tbone

                                Most of this is of no use to most people. I need to keep it as dry as I can inside, don't want to cover it up with a waterproof cover with water inside and let it sit a year until we get back.
                                It would be solid rust. After waiting a year to get back to the cabin, the faster I can get it running and on the trail the happier I am! My wife will verify that statement!!

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