MAX_FAB 1996 Max II Build Thread

[MAX_FAB]

Hello, it has been a while since posting my first post in the intro section but I am finally getting around to digging into my Max II. I figured that I would start a build thread to document the process as I will have a lot of questions along the way. Hopefully you guys don’t mind giving an old chap some insight?

So I traded a 4 wheeler for this 1996 Max II almost a year ago and have hopeful intent that I can revive this thing and turn it into what I visualize it being. I didn’t realize the condition that it was in until after the fact, but I’m stuck with it now and hope that rebuilding it doesn’t break the bank. Basically, I would like to bring it back to full/dependable working order, would like to create a closed cab and add 360 degree aux lighting. I want to make it into a utility/fun vehicle to use on and around my property day or night, rain or shine.

I started a gallery @ MAX_FAB 1996 Max II Build - Amphibious ATV Pictures although the sort is opposite of what I would like. I will have to remember the default sort next time I upload an album. Let me see if I can get the img link to work with this first post before posting more..







Chocked up on makeshift wood jack stands:

[MAX_FAB]

Inital findings:

- All chains stretched and need replaced.
- Front chain adjusters missing. Adjusters need replaced front and rear.
- All sprockets look fine except the front drive sprockets. New front axles in order.
- All 6 wheel bearings need replaced (lots of up/down/side to side play)
- All axle’s need inspected, repaired and bushings replaced (there is about 1/8 turn wheel spin before drivelive is engaged, I assume worn axle bolts).
- T-20 needs to be opened and inspected/repaired.
- Axle bolt missing in right middle wheel.
- Clutch needs repaired (nylon sliders worn).
- Clutch belt needs replaced.
- Some tires not holding air more than a week.
- Floorpan is made from plywood which will be replaced with steel or aluminum.
- Missing disk brake hardware, but not sure if I am going to replace that.

The T-20 being the heart of the unit was really what I was after when I picked this thing up. (I had the initially wanted to build some sort of light duty frakenstein bandvagn, see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NbSTOdlOgo but I cannot let this project consume me for years on end, so I figure that I will just stick with modifying the original design. BTW, check this Russian dud just chillin informing you of how bad ass his bandvagn is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=553UleMwEBY (skid steer porn if nothing else, eh?).

When I picked the Max up, it would drive forward, but not shift into reverse. I am going to start with repairing the T-20 and work it in stages (as money will allow) from there. I have a lot of pokers in the fire so this won’t be an extremely fast process, but I do plan to eat the chit sandwich and see this project through as I think that it will be worth it in the end.

Looking at the T-20, it seems that the drums look good and smooth. The planetary gears look to be in good condition, I think the sun gear and primary input shaft as well. The engage/disengage cog gearing on one of the drums is worn thinner than the other side, so I believe that drum will need replaced. All of the brake bands actually look new, but one has incurred some damage frum this little bugger from the shifting thingy and had some of the liner torn off. Both shifting thingy’s will be replaced :-) I will probably go ahead and replace the main bearings as well since I am in there, they feel a little gritty when I spin them.

[MAX_FAB]

[MAX_FAB]

Other than overseeing my progress, adding insight to anything that I might be overlooking, and any general peanut gallery remarks, can somebody tell me what is needed to pull these main bearing seals? I tried cantilevering it with a long screw driver, but am not having luck getting them out.. first headache.. uugh. Also, I am aware of the main retailers of 6x6 parts (R’s Relics and 6x6parts), but are there any other channels to get parts for these things other than those two? Also, are there any specs published that list tolerances for the innards of this tranny?

[MAX_FAB]

I have not started purchasing parts yet, but any info, suggestions, tips or tricks that I should consider moving forward (Is it worth it to rebuild this) is more than welcome..

I will post more as progress is made. I'll try to keep tabs on this thread and respond accordingly to any comments or suggestions.

Thanks,

- MAX_FAB

[TheSilverBuick]

Wow, great photo thread! I look forward to seeing where this goes.

I've noticed some play in the bolt holes for the sprockets on the axles on mine as well. I'm not committing myself to new axles just yet, but thinking of going to the hardware store and getting some dense nylon inserts and let the bolt wear on them for a while and see what the durability of the nylon is. If they are destroyed every outing, well then I'll be looking for axles as well.

[Rod's Max]

If you go to the home page there are a couple of sponsor banners that may be able to assist with your parts needs - Max6x6 and Mudd-Ox. Not sure what parts Mudd-Ox will have but I read on this site they may have T-20 rebuild kits. You will have to call Mudd-Ox to find out what they have. Max6x6 has a web site you can order from (I have used them). You will find some items out of stock due to a supply issues (that's what I will call it. If you want to find out more you can research it in this site). Max6x6 also has a number you can call. Hope this helps.

Rod

[ARGOJIM]

Very interesting front chain adjuster set up there.

[MAX_FAB]

@Buick

Yeah, I suppose it's just a given with the bolt through axles. I wonder what the acceptable limit is though? When I spin the wheel, there was about 3" of freespin forward/backward before it connected w/the drivetrain. I read somewhere about plug welding the holes and drilling new holes. I rekon I'll cross bridge when I get there.

@Rod

Thanks, I'll check out those links.


@Jim

Yeah, aint that nice? I have promised myself that I will never buy anything used from a certain type of person so long as I live. Gotta see through my commitments though or the boss might think I'm being irresponsible w/my money and take over my budget..


- MAX_FAB

[ARGOJIM]

Look at the Dragon thread, they look like a similar set up. I might try them before replacing seeing as the stock floor is gone.

[dgeiman]

You have quite the project there it will be fun and frustrating getting it together. When I got my Max I tore it apart and went trough it. There were things I should have replaced and didn't. My advice if its in question replace it it will save you in the long run. As far as getting the seals out I use a bar called a crows foot its about 10" long and has a hook on one and a center punch point on the other it works good. I bought from Snap on tools about 30 yrs. ago. If you hook under the seal and pull down gently against the bearing and work your way around it should come out. Have fun.

[Gene Boyd]

Great pictures. I purchased a 1988 model Max II. I replaced ALL sprockets, ALL chain, bearings, bushings, wiring, LED headlights, made front and rear racks, made a windshield, added flashers, had tubes put in tires and added two winches and finally replaced motor. Was a 16HP found 23HP same price. So now have a 23HP Briggs. AND I STILL HAVE LESS IN IT THAN A NEW ONE. New last time I checked was $10,000. Plus the fun of rebuilding. GOOD LUCK !

[garretttpe]

Max Fab
a little over a year ago I overhauled my Max II, I beat it pretty hard and blew the T20 and it sat for years. so I finally got around to doing a frame out rebuild, T20, engine mods, all new sprockets, chains, bearings, T20 split shifter and supports, etc etc. I would guess I have about 2500 total in the rebuild and it was worth every penny, plus I know every inch of the machine now.

I have pictures and some threads on where I purchased stuff from under my user name, Good luck and IMO do not go cheap, buy quality, buy once. play for a long time afterwards.

I did my T20 first and that was when just before Max was bought by Mudd-ox I ordered my bearing, seal and gasket set from them, My drums were marginal and I had to have a couple of them turned down, I should have had them machined, rigging them and adjusting the bands would have been easier. worth a rebuild

Larry

[john swenson]

if you don't want to buy new axles... but the sprocket holes are worn, you can use a 2 piece clamping collar to hold the sprocket tight to the axle. just clamp the collar on the axle next to the sprocket then weld only one half of the collar to the sprocket. ( that way you can still loosen the collar to remove the sprocket if need be ) i've done this on my max 2 axles and it added alot of strength. hope this helps. johnboy va.

[wedge]

Good idea there Johnboy ! Where did you get the collar's ?