Max II chain tensioners (homemade)

[Reconrokon]

I have a 1995 Max II with 104 hours on it. Recently one of the 4 chain tensioners' failed. I used "buggyman1's" design and installed it today. The one that failed was the one right in front of the driven clutch. By far the worst one as far as access goes. The other 3 should be much quicker and easier. I was able to remove the old tensioner, fabricate the new and install it in about 3 hours. The other 3 are holding tight, so I will replace them as they fail. I took it for a short ride and it seems to be working well. I will keep an eye on it and report any issues if they arise. I ordered the HDPE plastic tube and unistrut from McMaster Carr and picked up the spring nuts at Lowes. Total cost for 4 tensioners is around $25.00. Big thank you to "buggyman1" for sharing his idea/design.

This is the old tensioner with unistrut welded on the back and springnut in place.

This is the bolt/HDPE roller/washer prior to bolting it in place.

This is where it gets bolted in (2 bolts on top and 2 on the bottom). Very tight access, but it can be done without removing anything. It goes where you see the 2 square holes. Took several tries and lots of patience to get the nuts on the bottom side, but it can be done.

[john swenson]

great design ! nice being able to utilize the original ratchet piece....johnboy va.

[garretttpe]

Awesome

I have one question, There is a lot of pressure on the chains, the springnut holds the HDPE roller in place without moving? This looks like my next project

Larry

[Reconrokon]

Awesome

I have one question, There is a lot of pressure on the chains, the springnut holds the HDPE roller in place without moving? This looks like my next project

Larry

It felt very tight when I snugged down the bolt. Others that have done this mod say it holds up. I have a long ride scheduled for September, so I really will not know how well it holds up until then. The bolt going through the roller is 1/2" so its actually pretty beefy. This is basically the same set up that Richards Relics sell for $200 for a set of 4. I just could not justify that kind of money for what it is. Good luck. RR

[snaps10]

I can’t find that hdpe tube at all on McMaster. Link?

Is there a reason you didn’t just run the unistrut nut without welding the unistrut in? I had planned on that when I realized they’re the same size opening, before I ran across people doing this. (Built motor mounts out of unistrut and noticed it fit)

[Reconrokon]

I can’t find that hdpe tube at all on McMaster. Link?

Is there a reason you didn’t just run the unistrut nut without welding the unistrut in? I had planned on that when I realized they’re the same size opening, before I ran across people doing this. (Built motor mounts out of unistrut and noticed it fit)

I welded the unistrut on the back of the original tensioner piece because that is how the plans I got off this site had it. It gives the spring on the springnut something to press against and increases the overall strength of the tensioner. I guess it could be done without welding the unistrut on, but this way seems much stronger. I do not have the part # for the HDPE tube, but McMaster is where I got it. Try doing a search on this site. The person that had the original idea that I borrowed goes by the username of "Buggyman1". Good luck.

[thebuggyman1]

I don't remember the size I used before, but this 1 1/2" X 1/2" should work. Product# 8705K49

Here's a link to my original thread: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/max-a...adjusters.html

[snaps10]

thanks buggyman, I ended up finding some chain rollers with bearings for go carts that I'm going to try. I'll let you guys know how it goes