What RPM Range are You Running?

[Timbo]

I adjusted the belt deflection to slightly over 1" and also was able to manually push the governor linkage to get to up to 4,000 RPMs. Unfortunately I am still geting the same clutch travel. I have attached a video of my secondary while giving it full throttle. Any ideas on what I should try next?

[philipatmaxfour]

Wow. If that really is 4000 RPM,your secondary clutch is not working by a wide margin. Are you sure that it is the right belt and that it is not worn too narrow? Is it worth getting a new belt and keeping the old one for a spare?

[Toys4Me]

What are you using to get RPM? That doesn't sound like 4k. Looks and sounds more like 2k. If you are using one of the digital tach/hour meter you might have it on the wrong setting.

[Timbo]

Unfortunately the sound on the video is not accurate to what it sounds like in person. The video sounds like it's at idle. At 4k rpms it is screaming in person. I currently have the Tac set at the setting where the spark plug fires 1 time per revolution.

I recently changed the belt to a Carlisle 1042M3 (44-1/8" X 1- 3/16"). I am getting the same results with this belt and the old stretched belt.

Not sure what my next steps should be. Should I try to pry open the primary and secondary? If so, what is the best method to do this?

[dirtdobber]

Regardless of the belt length or condition, your drive clutch should cycle through its full motion. Don't pry on the primary clutch. I would start with the secondary clutch. As you say, pry it open but its not easy. As you pry give it some twist to help the ramps climb each other. Don't pry so hard that you bend your sheaves, though.

Quite frankly, if it were mine and the secondary clutch has clearance to come off without too much trouble, I would pull the clutch and disassemble it to make sure everything is nice and clean and working as it should.

A word of caution on your primary clutch.....if you have the belt removed and rev the engine up, you may see the clutch "close" as it should. BUT it will stick in the closed position and it's hard to unstick it. One member recently did this and broke the clutch trying to get back to its normal position.

[hipowerone]

For my 2 cents worth: I would adjust the belt tension to the 3/4" deflection and see what that does....after consulting this site, and the owner manual, I found my speed/power problems all were attributed to this minor adjustment.

[ARGOJIM]

I too would pull it apart, could be someone over wound the spring, spring color will also affect opening force.
Should you open it be careful, try to count clocking.

[philipatmaxfour]

rpm range

I regret that you haven't found an easier answer, it sounds like the clutch needs to be looked at on the bench. It didn't help but I;m glad that you tried a new belt to eliminate the obvious. good luck.

[garretttpe]

I have a 2000 Max II, 18hp vanguard, high rev kit, gov disconnected, exhaust restrictors removed and that is it. @5200 rpm clocked 32 MPH with all drivetrain stock.
I do not have a billet flywheel so I am very careful not to exceed 4400 RPM on normal driving and that is about 25-27 MPH. The extra revs are great when I really need an extra boost of power.

Larry

[Reconrokon]

I have a 2000 Max II, 18hp vanguard, high rev kit, gov disconnected, exhaust restrictors removed and that is it. @5200 rpm clocked 32 MPH with all drivetrain stock.
I do not have a billet flywheel so I am very careful not to exceed 4400 RPM on normal driving and that is about 25-27 MPH. The extra revs are great when I really need an extra boost of power.

Larry

32 mph would be awesome. I don't think a 14hp Vanguard could ever get there. I would be happy with 25 mph. When you disconnected the governor on your motor, what modifications did you do other than the high rev kit? Did you remove the governor internally or just the outside linkage? I read online you have to install a spring to keep it from revving too high. Supposedly with the governor disconnected, the motor will over rev by itself without touching the throttle. Any info much appreciated. RR

[garretttpe]

Reconrokon

MSAFI65 sent me a email with detail on what to do back in 2015. I cant find that email so maybe you can ask on here or send him a PM. It was a very easy process. he sent a to scale picture of the lingage that needs to be reshaped. and it works awesome.. and only way to over rev the engine is if I do it, no way it can over rev otherwise.

At idle I am at 800 rpm aprox and no issue's.

Mods... High rev kit, removed exhaust restrictor, gov bypassed that is it on the engine,

[Reconrokon]

Reconrokon

MSAFI65 sent me a email with detail on what to do back in 2015. I cant find that email so maybe you can ask on here or send him a PM. It was a very easy process. he sent a to scale picture of the lingage that needs to be reshaped. and it works awesome.. and only way to over rev the engine is if I do it, no way it can over rev otherwise.

At idle I am at 800 rpm aprox and no issue's.

Mods... High rev kit, removed exhaust restrictor, gov bypassed that is it on the engine,

Thanks for the info. I will try to get that information on reshaping the linkage. I removed the exhaust restrictors on mine, but it didn't change anything. If I can get my governor modified, I think that will boost my top end quite a bit.

[garretttpe]

Remember
you will need a billet flywheel if you will be in the 4600+ range for any amount of time. I do not have one but I also do not go above 4400 rpm. 5500 i did for speed test. I use the extra throttle for when I need to get up something really steep, that is where I get the most advantage, I also have a red spring in my secondary clutch which keeps me in lower gear longer and that also helps on the hills and stuff. I would highly recommend the red spring.

[allwheeldrive]

Defiantly not closing all the way. 2" of deflection seems pretty tight to me. My belt was slipping with 6" of belt deflection. I moved the engine closer and ended up with 3" of deflection. The belt was too tight and it would never slip enough to shift gears. Still had slippage. Moved engine closer. 1" of deflection. Had to start in gear, no gear change possible. STILL slipped! Changed to a newer clutch and problem mostly went away. If only these machines had real transmissions with real clutches.

[garretttpe]

I agree with some of the guys here, remove the secondary clutch, very possible it was clocked wrong if someone installed a new/different spring and it is just to tight. and a deflection of 3/4 to 1 inch is what is needed. if the belt is good, the deflection is good, the RPM is good, the primary is working (as it appears it is), then not much else except the secondary..
Remember this system is designed to be at 100 percent at 3600 engine rpm. so just giving more throttle will only mask other problems. Buying a new red spring is cheap 25 dollars or less and i would also install new slides. a couple of hrs work and a few dollars and the secondary will be good as new. there are threads here that show how to do it.

My .02 cents