We broke one last year also outside the tub just outside of the bearing cage! its like the steel is shattered exact same as last years broken axle I have never seen anything like it! Tire preasure is at 4 psi and track slack was good! It was in the snow and on flat ground not even on the throttle just idleing down the trail! Has anyone ever had issues like this before pretty disappointed in the max as we speak! At the price of axles this is kind of BS the machine only has 80 hours its a 2005 950t!
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Sounds like the axles are over hardened? Can you take a picture of the broken end? Is there any voids or air pockets? I'd think there wouldn't be. Usually axles bend, in order for them to shatter they need to be very hard and repeatedly stressed to form fatigue fractures. Was it the same location as the previous broken axle? IE front most left? Or rear most right? Etc.
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Originally posted by Delduck View PostI am dealing with the same thing as we speak, the break seams to be where the tub is I have about 40 hrs on this axle.it was brand new, it’s the right rear, I haven’t even removed it yet. 2000 max 4 solid axle replaced both rearssigpic
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
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Its a different axle didnt break the new one! First one was left rear second one was left front!
They broke outside of the bearing cages! Can still drive it around! The metal looks almost shattered its crazy looking! Both looked exactly the same! Im thinking maybe a bad batch of axles machine only has 80hrs on it but when we bought it the tire pressure was at 15 we lowered it and were running at 5 psi so maybe with the high pressure they were running it weakend the axles!"We Got Hogs"
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the original statement from your conversation with your responding friend is right if there broken under a appearance of shattering or serated breaks there to hard they should be made of 4130 chrome-moly not 4140 to hard internal mettalurgical embrittlement thats your problem the authenthiized material is to un mallable to bend
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I still have original hollow axles on my scrambler with a max 2 drivetrain.I have rubber tracks and made my own hubs a nd extension.I only have had one axle break and that was at the flange.My axles are actually the 3 stud with 4 stud homemade wheel hubs welded to them.I was told over and over that I better go to solid axles.All I did was mig weld all around my axle hubs.I added 3 or 4 beads.M flanges are not even gusseted and I have not broke any hollow axles.I have 14 inch studded rubber snowmobile tracks on each side with golf cart rims and at101 tires.I was out Friday for over an hour in over a foot of snow going over mounds of tree limbs stacked up to keep atvs out.I am only running the rear chains.My axles do fine.The only one that broke was severely bent when I bought the machine.It broke before I even built my tracks,I was just wheelin in my front yard.Every machine has a failsafe.Something will break no matter what .That's why I like the bolted sprockets,the bolt should break before your axle.Something is not right.I hope you get it get it figured out.I made my own replacement axle,sprocket and hub because I am a tightwad,my track came off once and that was brutal ,my tracks are extremely heavy because I have homemade steel track
wheel guides.Maybe you can weld up your broken axles.Last edited by flippy; 02-11-2018, 01:18 PM.
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Originally posted by oztrax View Postcan anyone put some photos up of the broken axles,
looking for end on close up view of the cross section.
eg how the metal particles look.
OZ
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20160107_152531_zpspfkejnyi.jpgLast edited by Canadian_Zuk; 02-16-2018, 08:26 AM.
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